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Hmm, that's interesting. So the $17 cable from Autozone would be a pretty good facsimile of the original. See: https://www.autozone.com/p/sorensen-battery-cable-ab9/1053297?searchText=1053297&redirectUrl=true Well, clicking on your link does suggest that the copper cable is available from...

OK, and for extra credit, does anyone have a source for the ground cable (item #6 in the drawing in post #3 above). This is BMW part # 61121350767 and RealOEM shows it as "ended" (Max and W&N say the same thing). So I'm resigned to finding an aftermarket ground cable that looks close. I have...

Yes, your understanding is correct.

MC's typically leak from the rear when the rear seal inside the MC is worn and the vacuum of the booster draws fluid past that compromised seal. If anything, if your shims are not airtight (e.g., if they are just a couple of flatwashers), the lack of a vacuum inside the booster would lessen...

Would the Frankfurt Stereo MB model (which I assume stands for Mercedes Benz) have the faceplate and knobs consistent with what a BMW dealer might have installed in the late 60's / early 70's? Blaupunkt won't let me copy & paste the photo, but this link shows it...

The Weber carbs don't touch the hood and firewall, but a stock air cleaner will. You can mitigate those problems by: - Not using JAM adapters to connect the Webers to the stock air cleaner. The JAM adapters bias the air cleaner rearward. Other types of adapters are discussed in this thread...

I'm no authority on intake manifold design, but the angle change between the throttle body and manifold doesn't trouble me much. Note that the mounting angle allows the injector axes to be aligned with the manifolds and head ports. While there might be some resistance as the air is forced to...

It is not repairable, no. You do need a new windshield, and if the seal is 55 years old, a new seal as well. As Scott mentions, the glass (and seal) are available from W&N. Shipping a single windshield can be expensive, so searching for a US-based source might have some merit.

I just visited San Francisco last week, to visit friends and take in the "its Christmastime in the city" thing. Someone recommended Sam's Tavern to me as an old-time restaurant that harkens back to the days of Sam Spade and Nick & Nora Charles. The restaurant has mature, well dressed waiters...

Heck, in 2025 BMW would just use plastic for its intake manifolds.

OK, now I see. So this additional fuse block is there to protect the high amperage wiring to the starter, main fuseblock and any other unfused circuits coming directly off the battery.

I'm not getting how a single fuse at the battery can protect the whole electrical system. It would seem that this fuse would need to be sized to allow the starter to operate (tens of amps) and as such, it wouldn't blow when an 18 gauge wire shorted out, which would draw only a few amps, but get...

Well, I guess I don't know. My warning in post #8 was based on my experience with e9's. But in post #11, bavbob says that "the E3 bar is much more user friendly", so it appears that there is less risk when working around one of those.

You can try. But that presumes that the fixed end of the spring did slip out of its slot. If that happened, one arm would require less torque to rotate it than the other - is that the case? You should also be aware that those torsion bars take a LOT of torque to rotate. Treat these hood...

Well yes. But the pot metal parts that bavbob refers to in post # 4 are secured with the same bolts that mount the whole assembly to the hood. And those parts are what anchor the fixed ends of the springs. So conceivably, one could have shifted outward when the spring assembly was loose...

The thing isn't adjustable. If the shop took the torsion bar assembly apart (and I can't imagine why they would, unless they wanted to paint each component separately), they could have messed up installing the two blocks that anchor the fixed end of each torsion spring. But more likely, the...

I would spray some silicone around the interface between the plastic grip and the metal lever (unless you plan on repainting your lever). After it has soaked in for a few minutes, I would use a block of wood as an impact tool, put it against the bottom end of the grip and tap it upward with a...

Admittedly I didn't take mine apart; just looked at the underside, saw a 6mm nut compressing a spring that provides friction as you rotate the mirror. It looks like removing that nut (and not getting hit in the eye by the spring) would separate the base from the post. Great! I will be...

My 1970 2800 CS has flag mirrors (I think I have that right - please look at the pictures and correct me if they are trapezoidal). I just noticed that there is a crack in the base of the left (US drivers side) mirror. It looks like the base just bolt to the mirror and could be easily swapped...

Ah, a stripped nut hadn't occurred to me. Glad you got it apart and that the slots that grip the carriage bolts wasn't damaged.