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I would spray some silicone around the interface between the plastic grip and the metal lever (unless you plan on repainting your lever). After it has soaked in for a few minutes, I would use a block of wood as an impact tool, put it against the bottom end of the grip and tap it upward with a...

Admittedly I didn't take mine apart; just looked at the underside, saw a 6mm nut compressing a spring that provides friction as you rotate the mirror. It looks like removing that nut (and not getting hit in the eye by the spring) would separate the base from the post. Great! I will be...

My 1970 2800 CS has flag mirrors (I think I have that right - please look at the pictures and correct me if they are trapezoidal). I just noticed that there is a crack in the base of the left (US drivers side) mirror. It looks like the base just bolt to the mirror and could be easily swapped...

Ah, a stripped nut hadn't occurred to me. Glad you got it apart and that the slots that grip the carriage bolts wasn't damaged.

As HB Chris said, these are carriage bolts. The square section immediately under the head should be captured by the slot that these fit into. Perhaps someone used a conventional bolt (without that square section) or perhaps the slot has become enlarged from someone overtorqueing things. My...

His defensive tactic was parking next to a Tesla truck; why bother vandalizing an ancient car when one of those monstrocities is nearby?

Chris: Thank you for posting those two pictures - they really explain things. It looks like your side window seal is a little bunched up too; does that concern you? The orientation of your funny shape piece corresponds to what I had guessed. My only other concern is that the funny shape...

Scott: Thank you for your reply, but I didn't understand "flipped over". Flipped top-to-bottom, or front-to-back? I know that it isn't perfectly aligned in my photo (after all, it's only held on with tape), but sure, the top of the funny' shape piece needs to be bent more toward the car's...

I am slowly reassembling my 2800 CS after a re-paint. Currently working on the door seals and have some questions about their fit: 1) I understand that the cross-section of the upper seal has an inner and outer bulge that fit into corresponding grooves on the aluminum channel that is screwed...

My thought is that it appears to be a super-clean build, probably done by a professional who knew both vintage BMW's and electric cars. The auction ended at $130K with the reserve not met, which suggests to me that the seller spent a bundle having the car built and hoped to get much of it back...

Yea, on second glance, I guess it is Fjord. OK, two, affluent bidders, each who must win the fjord coupe with a sunroof and a white interior....... Hmm, interesting. I may be behind the curve on understanding the latest trends. Clearly this result would suggest that I am. But I still can't...

There is no question that a MOSFET would be smaller than a conventional relay. But honestly, the availability of volume inside the door and rear window areas of an e9 is not an issue. It's pretty easy to package a couple of normal-sized relays into those spaces. Micro relays, as Socrates...

I would say that the price was a bit rich for the current market. While the car looks sharp and the quality of the work looks good, it is more of a restomod than a correct restoration. And generally, it takes a correct restoration to bring top dollar. But hey, this was an auction and anything...

I don't need it, but admire your generous offer. I would suggest that you salvage the wing screw (secured by a circlip) and perhaps the molded tool insert (is that removable?) before discarding the shell. I can almost guarantee that if you pitch the whole thing, someone will be looking for...

If that is the case, then I wouldn't replace the whole harness just to get the horns to work. The horn circuit is about the simplest one on an e9 (and pretty much any car of that era - they're probably computer-controlled on modern cars).

Well, yes, but tell us about the picture of the young man with the Model A and the Offy valve cover.

There was a recent thread about sourcing reproduction versions the "2800" chrome trunk piece. As I recall, the conclusion was "forget it" (of course, used parts may pop up from time to time). That thread pointed out that not only do the size and font have to be right, but the shape of the...

I agree with CSteve; it could be an OK deal. The buyer needs to verify the statement: "There is zero structural rust, and really minor cosmetic rust", since rust is seldom so cooperative as to just attack non-structural areas. The exterior looks pretty good, but underhood it's a bit sad...

The "AI comic rendition" is cute and has a "Cars" quality to it. But the center grille seems a bit funky. Agree that the simplicity of the 2800 is impressive. The initial model of many cars is the most elegant; subsequent evolution just adds doo-dads and gee-gaws.

Well yes. Nothing fits as well as a factory part and the curvature on that trim has to be just right - you will probably have to spend some time tweaking replacement trim to get a good fit. But if your old trim is missing or damaged beyond repair, it's good to know that replacements are available.