Admire your tenacity. Never give up!
CSL Restoration
- Thread starter Marc-M
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Marc-M
Well-Known Member
Hi
I got the car dipped because it a total pain finding all the spot-welds and also, I wanted to see the real car – and boy I did!!
The car will be taken to bits and will be kept as a steel body – it will get surface rust on it.
Once I have done all the welding work the car will go back for re dipping and then it will get E coated
We are quite lucky in the UK as there is a company called SPL.
So, the car is once dipped again to clean off all oil and rust that has formed over the restoration.
It then goes through a process of different submerged tanks and the whole car is dipped in a E- coating – so paint goes every where
You can see the process here
If you utube there are loads of vids on how they do it...
This will give the car the best rust proofing in the market, together with putting in cavity wax when it’s been painted should keep the car rust free for a very long time.
The problem with dipping is that you get acid weeping from the joints after the car has been restored, but with SPL because the car dipped and e coated – the paint goes into all the seams.
Marc
I got the car dipped because it a total pain finding all the spot-welds and also, I wanted to see the real car – and boy I did!!
The car will be taken to bits and will be kept as a steel body – it will get surface rust on it.
Once I have done all the welding work the car will go back for re dipping and then it will get E coated
We are quite lucky in the UK as there is a company called SPL.
So, the car is once dipped again to clean off all oil and rust that has formed over the restoration.
It then goes through a process of different submerged tanks and the whole car is dipped in a E- coating – so paint goes every where
You can see the process here
If you utube there are loads of vids on how they do it...
This will give the car the best rust proofing in the market, together with putting in cavity wax when it’s been painted should keep the car rust free for a very long time.
The problem with dipping is that you get acid weeping from the joints after the car has been restored, but with SPL because the car dipped and e coated – the paint goes into all the seams.
Marc
Looks like a good process. I'm sure it's not cheap.
Annoying video transitions and music though.
Annoying video transitions and music though.
frogisland
Well-Known Member
Its a reasonable process, none are perfect. I've just spent several days removing filiform, crevice and surface corrosion from my ecoated e9 (ecoated 4 years ago...and still being rebuilt so not seen the road). Probably about 30 points on the underside. Unfortunately I found some severe corrosion at one point (inside of rear wheel arch just behind the cross member mounting point) which I had to cut out and reintroduce new metal. It was primed and 2k painted about 2 years after ecoating, but was stored in a dry environment in the interim. No regrets having gone through this process. I have had items ecoated at another company, a door corroded very badly afterwards (e12) so was redone elsewhere - but other items were fine. My e12 shell has gone through an oven, bath and epoxy static priming. Latter does not reach the box sections unlike ecoating. Neither completely reaches every corroded area, especially behind tightly spot welded surfaces.
Mark, there is still some weeping post ecoating. I had the benefit of my shell standing for some time prior to painting and we were able to catch the areas, do some minor remedial work before proceeding.
Mark, there is still some weeping post ecoating. I had the benefit of my shell standing for some time prior to painting and we were able to catch the areas, do some minor remedial work before proceeding.
Philippe db
Well-Known Member
The Monster of Frankenstein for sure looked like a beauty queen compared to this poor E9.
Good luck.
Good luck.
Marc-M
Well-Known Member
Hello All
So this week end had a few hours to start un picking the bodge up work, and as I revealed the inner sections, the work that has been done is unbelievable.
The folk who did need to be re trained! or may be do a different job – wow – it’s a mess –
As you can see there is not much left, and if anyone has some pictures they can send me so I can use them for reference regarding the front inner wing and where all the correct steel sections should go…
I have nothing to go off apart from the factory line drawings.
So, any pictures of a car that is without fenders will be a great help.
Anyhow, have a look at what I found as I took the front fenders off…. I think a double measure of single malt whiskey would be good.
This is a great help - but there are not that many spot welds left to find!
As you can see most of the right structure has gone and and pics would help me . thanks
So this week end had a few hours to start un picking the bodge up work, and as I revealed the inner sections, the work that has been done is unbelievable.
The folk who did need to be re trained! or may be do a different job – wow – it’s a mess –
As you can see there is not much left, and if anyone has some pictures they can send me so I can use them for reference regarding the front inner wing and where all the correct steel sections should go…
I have nothing to go off apart from the factory line drawings.
So, any pictures of a car that is without fenders will be a great help.
Anyhow, have a look at what I found as I took the front fenders off…. I think a double measure of single malt whiskey would be good.
This is a great help - but there are not that many spot welds left to find!
As you can see most of the right structure has gone and and pics would help me . thanks
frogisland
Well-Known Member
Mark, this might help. It was Miklos Meszaros's resortation of the orange accident damaged CSL:
https://www.facebook.com/media/set/?set=a.333101766785501.74218.100002570424157&type=3
https://www.facebook.com/media/set/?set=a.333101766785501.74218.100002570424157&type=3
Bwana
Well-Known Member
You really have to wonder what the PO was thinking to have intentionally done such bad brazing and welding. Like, why bother?
This thread makes me feel guilty for parting out my CSI. If this wasn't a CSL I think the consensus would be to abandon ship.
I am actually having a body/paint guy look at my shell before I cut into it. He might want the car for a personal project. I've warned him of the challenges. He's worked on some well known CSL's though so he may be up for it. If that doesn't happen, I can stick some oddball metal areas in a box and ship them your way. I'm going to keep the lower windshield frame for myself, the cowl seal area, and rocker bits. I don't know if my slow pace can keep up with your momentum though...
If this wasn't a CSL I think the consensus would be to abandon ship.I am actually having a body/paint guy look at my shell before I cut into it. He might want the car for a personal project. I've warned him of the challenges. He's worked on some well known CSL's though so he may be up for it. If that doesn't happen, I can stick some oddball metal areas in a box and ship them your way. I'm going to keep the lower windshield frame for myself, the cowl seal area, and rocker bits. I don't know if my slow pace can keep up with your momentum though...
You might get some help from these links:
http://www.vranedom.com/
https://www.flickr.com/photos/123429072@N07/page2
http://www.mye9.tempolog.com/
http://www.bmwforums.info/bmw-projects/5686-1973-e9-project-resurrecting-dead.html
http://e30-talk.com/topic/85431-under-construction-bmw-e9-coupé/
http://www.e21-board.de/wbb/dies-und-das/restaurationen/47997-eine-weitere-e9-antirosttherapie/
Cheers,
http://www.vranedom.com/
https://www.flickr.com/photos/123429072@N07/page2
http://www.mye9.tempolog.com/
http://www.bmwforums.info/bmw-projects/5686-1973-e9-project-resurrecting-dead.html
http://e30-talk.com/topic/85431-under-construction-bmw-e9-coupé/
http://www.e21-board.de/wbb/dies-und-das/restaurationen/47997-eine-weitere-e9-antirosttherapie/
Cheers,
gazzol
Well-Known Member
It was a different set of criteria, most of those repairs were probably done after failing a M.O.T. test and probably when the cars value had slipped to virtually nothing. As appalling as the work was we should be grateful it was done otherwise by now there would be nothing for Marc-M to restore at all.
Marc-M
Well-Known Member
Thanks everyone...
Does anyone have a good second hand or new front lower Valance for sale...
Thanks
Marc
Does anyone have a good second hand or new front lower Valance for sale...
Thanks
Marc
Marc, did you find any areas on the body that were not repaired? I admire the PO's work, imagine how much easier it would have been to just buy new sheet metal... or as Gaazol alluded to; a new car!
I have no doubt that you will enlighten us all as you correctly piece this work of art back together.
Thanks for taking the time to document and post!
-New Valance- post in parts WTB, they're out there but no one will know your looking unless they get all the way through the thread
I have no doubt that you will enlighten us all as you correctly piece this work of art back together.
Thanks for taking the time to document and post!
-New Valance- post in parts WTB, they're out there but no one will know your looking unless they get all the way through the thread
amazing the amount of craziness everywhere you look.
like stated- good thing its a csl.
enjoy watching the pics
thansk
definately abbot and costello meets frankenstein
like stated- good thing its a csl.
enjoy watching the pics
thansk
definately abbot and costello meets frankenstein
Last edited:
Marc-M
Well-Known Member
I have now taken off both front and rear wings, and can reveal the car is a rust bucket… all parts are winging there way from Germany for the big rebuild... lots to take off before it starts looking good
No bottom A post
Strut bar made due to much rust - at I have a starting point - that is if its right!!
No bottom A post
Strut bar made due to much rust - at I have a starting point - that is if its right!!
Oh boy, do I know what you are doing this summer....
I'm really impressed by the fact that you haven't abandoned it after getting it back from dipping.
That is some serious work involved.
the best of luck!
Btw; are you sure there is no interference of your strut bar with the air intake?
I'm really impressed by the fact that you haven't abandoned it after getting it back from dipping.
That is some serious work involved.
the best of luck!
Btw; are you sure there is no interference of your strut bar with the air intake?
Marc-M
Well-Known Member
HiOh boy, do I know what you are doing this summer....
I'm really impressed by the fact that you haven't abandoned it after getting it back from dipping.
That is some serious work involved.
the best of luck!
Btw; are you sure there is no interference of your strut bar with the air intake?
The strut bar is only there while I take the car to bits- so as to keep it as sq as possible - I have a lot to cut out...
Marc-M
Well-Known Member
Today I should get my huge shipment of body parts from Walloth and Nesh.
I chap I have found in Germany who has a few parts that are NLA and have manage to get and pay (not cheap) old new stock front Valance, so at least I will not have to fabricate a new one.
I have had a bit of time to decide how I will go about the sequence to restore the body work on the car.
As you will have seen, there is not too much good steel and the body will be too weak to just start taking sections off.
So firstly, I have strengthened my roll over jog by putting to extra 3mm rectangular sections between the from and rear mounts.
This should keep the car from moving!
So, the first part will be to make good the 2 engine support box sections that run under that car.
Then I will have tackle the A posts and sills, with fabricating the inner A section supports.
Once these has been done I will have to get the doors mounted to get the right door gaps in relation to the lower sills first and the front and rear wings at a latter date.
So, with that in mind and no parts this weekend, I took the door skins off.
As I am re using the aluminium skins, I had a good look and they are quite oxidised, so I decided to anneal the aluminium before un folding the edges, I guessed they would have been work hardened when they were folded over originally.
As you can see they came off quite well but some sections of the folds had gone, together with a few holes in them in the corners.
I will clean them off and weld in now aluminium sections where required.
The door bottoms are shot at and will need new sections knitting in.
I have 1 new lower door repair section on its way and I have managed to get a good old door, that I will take out the bottom section and put in the original CSL door, I was thinking about just using the whole inner door, but as most things it probably be slightly different and steel gauge and will cause me loads of problem later on, when come to get the gaps correct.
When taking to bits, BMW fortunately put in a thin barrier membrane between the steel and the door skin to stop the reaction between the two metals (it still happened a little along the door bottom).
A little bit of rot!
A few holes - its getting to be a normal thing on this car.....
Door skin off showing all its problem I will sort - its just the bottom that I need to let in a new section
A close up of the holes and the car filler - that was put on in the 80s so the ally rotted thought in say 15 years!
The membrane that was folded over the steel sections to stop bimetallic corrosion - the pictures show it still did happen - a little
I chap I have found in Germany who has a few parts that are NLA and have manage to get and pay (not cheap) old new stock front Valance, so at least I will not have to fabricate a new one.
I have had a bit of time to decide how I will go about the sequence to restore the body work on the car.
As you will have seen, there is not too much good steel and the body will be too weak to just start taking sections off.
So firstly, I have strengthened my roll over jog by putting to extra 3mm rectangular sections between the from and rear mounts.
This should keep the car from moving!
So, the first part will be to make good the 2 engine support box sections that run under that car.
Then I will have tackle the A posts and sills, with fabricating the inner A section supports.
Once these has been done I will have to get the doors mounted to get the right door gaps in relation to the lower sills first and the front and rear wings at a latter date.
So, with that in mind and no parts this weekend, I took the door skins off.
As I am re using the aluminium skins, I had a good look and they are quite oxidised, so I decided to anneal the aluminium before un folding the edges, I guessed they would have been work hardened when they were folded over originally.
As you can see they came off quite well but some sections of the folds had gone, together with a few holes in them in the corners.
I will clean them off and weld in now aluminium sections where required.
The door bottoms are shot at and will need new sections knitting in.
I have 1 new lower door repair section on its way and I have managed to get a good old door, that I will take out the bottom section and put in the original CSL door, I was thinking about just using the whole inner door, but as most things it probably be slightly different and steel gauge and will cause me loads of problem later on, when come to get the gaps correct.
When taking to bits, BMW fortunately put in a thin barrier membrane between the steel and the door skin to stop the reaction between the two metals (it still happened a little along the door bottom).
A little bit of rot!
A few holes - its getting to be a normal thing on this car.....
Door skin off showing all its problem I will sort - its just the bottom that I need to let in a new section
A close up of the holes and the car filler - that was put on in the 80s so the ally rotted thought in say 15 years!
The membrane that was folded over the steel sections to stop bimetallic corrosion - the pictures show it still did happen - a little
Marc-M
Well-Known Member
Well a few £1000 quids worth of bits have come! - not a lot for your money.....
So a few hours work to do - I was a little concerned that the repair sections for the rear RHS wing would be to small, but there is plenty - so a result
So a few hours work to do - I was a little concerned that the repair sections for the rear RHS wing would be to small, but there is plenty - so a result