saveacs
Member
Hello and good day, all.
Might be easiest to first direct your attention to my original post regarding my CS:
http://www.e9coupe.com/forum/threads/saving-a-cs.3314/
Shortly after acquiring this car and beginning work on it, I moved overseas. It has sat in storage for the last 6 years. With no end in sight to my current 'mission' abroad, I'm now facing the reality that it could be another 10 years before I am able to do anything with my CS.
It costs very little to store, but I can't see the point. I'd rather see it in an enthusiast's care, being driven and enjoyed.
I drove it into storage, and as I recall, it still had a soft misfire on one cylinder, but would start, run and drive well enough. I put gasoline stabilizer into the fuel before parking.
I had not yet located an ignition switch, so the under-dash push button is still present.
The body is in very good condition, though I recall a couple small bubbles in the area between the sunroof and the windshield. A small area in each of the aft walls of the front wheel wells were a bit soft, common for these cars, apparently.
The interior is original and shows its age, though with a good detailing, I'd consider it drivable.
I never tackled the clunk in the rear, but it sounded like a shock with a missing bushing or a loose fastener.
I'm afraid due to the time that has passed, and the lack of familiarity from the short period of time I spent with the car, further details are now a bit foggy.
I have a complete '86 535i engine (disassembled and cleaned, ready for overhaul), it's fuel injection, early 630i intake manifold and the E28's 5 speed transmission. All were intended to go into this car. I expect any potential buyers would likely want to make a deal which includes these parts, and that suits me just fine.
I also have a set of staggered 17" type 32 wheels, straight and freshly refinished, which I thought looked similar to the old Alpina favorites in their thin, multi-spoke design and a decent match for the car. These can be worked into the deal too, if interested.
There are a few other bits as well, most of which I've forgotten, but along the lines of a repair manual on CD, European E-code headlights, some spare OE switches, etc.
My gut feeling is that the car could be made into a reasonably reliable, beautiful-from-5-feet-away driver with its existing engine and trans for under $1000 on top of the purchase price. It is up to any potential buyer, of course, to determine whether the car's condition is what they're looking for, however.
I'm in China, and can't be directly involved with any of this. Any viewings will have to be hosted by a friend of mine, so I'd ask that people feel at least semi-serious about taking on a modest coupe project, so I don't trouble him unnecessarily.
The car is registered in my father's name, so he can sign the paperwork, no problem.
It is located in Grimsby Ontario, about an hour out of Toronto, near Hamilton.
Price? I don't know. I've got about $4000 canadian into it now, including the extras. Would be nice to get that, at least.
Best offer!
*UPDATES*
-The VIN is 2240645
-As mentioned the car is registered in my father's name-- because I live overseas. He has no connection to this vehicle other than that and doesn't even know where it is stored. A couple of very keen individuals have discovered his phone number, probably through investigating the VIN. (I've done that myself before) Please do not do this, my father is not involved with the car beyond eventually signing over the ownership. Thanks!
I will have a friend host viewers once I have the car repositioned, perhaps as early as this Sunday. Viewing depends on aligning schedules with viewer, friend and storage owner. Patience may be required.
-10/19 The owner of the storage place tells me it is filling quickly. Once my parking spot is overtaken, I'll be blocked in until summer. I'm arranging for the car to be placed near the door, and then into the aisle in front of the door, if necessary, to ensure it is removable should the process of selling the old honey take longer than the storage space takes to fill.
During this move, I'll have more pictures taken, and an assessment made of its current condition.
If all goes well, I should have this posted by Sunday night-- assuming Chinese internet connection cooperation. Tuesday latest.
-additional photos linked below.
http://s1262.photobucket.com/user/saveacs/library/
-My friend inspected the car for me. For what it is worth, he is both a mechanical engineer and a licensed auto mechanic, and has been a 'to the core' car guy since he was a teenager.
His report is a follows:
"The car should be considered along the lines of a "barn find". It is very complete, and overall quite good. There is a bit of rust, but with a welder and a weekend, it would not be too hard to bring the car up to a level that is both safe and satisfactory, and wouldn't require painting the exterior. For anyone looking for a car to restore to a high level, by a wide margin, it will be hard to find a better foundation than this.
Body-wise, considering it's age, there isn't a lot of work here to produce a driver-level car.
The engine turns over freely, but doesn't fire even with fuel misted down the carbs or a shot of ether. I didn't see any spark, so it is likely, considering that you drove it in here, that there is some corrosion on the ignition points or something to that effect.
The carbs' throttle linkage is seized.
While cranking, I can hear a wheeze on one cylinder. It could be your guess of a poorly adjusted valve, or perhaps sticky rings on one piston are letting compression by into the crankcase, and we are hearing it out the breather. I doubt it is a big problem, given the running condition previously, and the lack of evidence present to indicate something like damage due to frozen coolant."
Further:
"Despite it not being applied, the parking brake shoes were seized to the rotors. It is because the backing plates are really rough, and allowed the shoes to touch, then over the years, they corroded and locked the wheel. It was extremely difficult to remove the rear rotors, and I damaged them in the process. The rear calipers are seized. I removed them and clipped their fluid hard lines and folded them several times to seal them. The fuel and brake lines in this vehicle should be replaced as should all the brakes, as would be expected for something that has been in storage so long.
With the rear brakes freed up, and the three flat tires pumped up (must have been slow leaks, they continued to hold air for the several hours I was there) It rolled easily. "
And:
"I found two holes and some surface rust underneath. Nothing nightmarish at all. One of the front wheel wells' aft wall had a small hole.
The right rear upper shock mount has previously been repaired. The left side was not, and the 'cap' has detached from the shock tower 'body'. That explains the clunk you described, and in a sense, you were right about it soundings like a loose upper mount. It would not be difficult to repair in a similar manner to the other side. The is no significant rust present in these areas. I took two pics of this, and when I'm putting weight on the rear bumper, you can see the left shock 'cap' lifting."
And:
"I see you never finished replacing the ignition switch and left the steering column switches partially disassembled. The key is present, as you describe, but I guess you never put the trunk lock cylinder back after making the key way back when."
I have no memory as to where the trunk lock cylinder is now. I recall keeping all those bits in a small cardboard box when I was working on this car, but whether that box is with the car or in my garage at home remains to be seen. Any leftover parts that aren't present when the buyer comes will be sent at no charge at the first opportunity.
I can't think of what else there may be other than the lock cylinder and the CD repair manual.
Also:
"By the way, the two missing hub caps are not missing. I just forgot to put them back on before taking pictures."
And finally, when I asked about my original assessment, he said:
"I can see how you could have come to that conclusion in 2010, but now with the braking system requiring a complete overhaul, probably fuel tank cleaning and carb overhauls, you should probably say $2000 in parts to make it a driver. Quite frankly, I'd update to the included fuel injection, rather than messing with parts-unobtainium carbs.
If it were mine, I would make it a winter project and have a nice driver for next spring. I'd enjoy it during the summers for a few years while squirreling away parts and cash for a big resto including that bigger engine some years down the road. I really like the survivor look of this car, and to make it into something I'd be terrified to take to the store or drive in the rain would motivate me to enjoy it for a while before taking that plunge."
-Regarding viewing, he is generally available in the evenings, but will be away for 2.5 weeks starting Oct 26. Contact me privately for his phone number. Again, it also has to match the storage owner's schedule, so patience may be required.
Here is how it looked when I bought it. It has been in garage storage ever since.
That's bird crap on the trunk lid, by the way.
Might be easiest to first direct your attention to my original post regarding my CS:
http://www.e9coupe.com/forum/threads/saving-a-cs.3314/
Shortly after acquiring this car and beginning work on it, I moved overseas. It has sat in storage for the last 6 years. With no end in sight to my current 'mission' abroad, I'm now facing the reality that it could be another 10 years before I am able to do anything with my CS.
It costs very little to store, but I can't see the point. I'd rather see it in an enthusiast's care, being driven and enjoyed.
I drove it into storage, and as I recall, it still had a soft misfire on one cylinder, but would start, run and drive well enough. I put gasoline stabilizer into the fuel before parking.
I had not yet located an ignition switch, so the under-dash push button is still present.
The body is in very good condition, though I recall a couple small bubbles in the area between the sunroof and the windshield. A small area in each of the aft walls of the front wheel wells were a bit soft, common for these cars, apparently.
The interior is original and shows its age, though with a good detailing, I'd consider it drivable.
I never tackled the clunk in the rear, but it sounded like a shock with a missing bushing or a loose fastener.
I'm afraid due to the time that has passed, and the lack of familiarity from the short period of time I spent with the car, further details are now a bit foggy.
I have a complete '86 535i engine (disassembled and cleaned, ready for overhaul), it's fuel injection, early 630i intake manifold and the E28's 5 speed transmission. All were intended to go into this car. I expect any potential buyers would likely want to make a deal which includes these parts, and that suits me just fine.
I also have a set of staggered 17" type 32 wheels, straight and freshly refinished, which I thought looked similar to the old Alpina favorites in their thin, multi-spoke design and a decent match for the car. These can be worked into the deal too, if interested.
There are a few other bits as well, most of which I've forgotten, but along the lines of a repair manual on CD, European E-code headlights, some spare OE switches, etc.
My gut feeling is that the car could be made into a reasonably reliable, beautiful-from-5-feet-away driver with its existing engine and trans for under $1000 on top of the purchase price. It is up to any potential buyer, of course, to determine whether the car's condition is what they're looking for, however.
I'm in China, and can't be directly involved with any of this. Any viewings will have to be hosted by a friend of mine, so I'd ask that people feel at least semi-serious about taking on a modest coupe project, so I don't trouble him unnecessarily.
The car is registered in my father's name, so he can sign the paperwork, no problem.
It is located in Grimsby Ontario, about an hour out of Toronto, near Hamilton.
Price? I don't know. I've got about $4000 canadian into it now, including the extras. Would be nice to get that, at least.
Best offer!
*UPDATES*
-The VIN is 2240645
-As mentioned the car is registered in my father's name-- because I live overseas. He has no connection to this vehicle other than that and doesn't even know where it is stored. A couple of very keen individuals have discovered his phone number, probably through investigating the VIN. (I've done that myself before) Please do not do this, my father is not involved with the car beyond eventually signing over the ownership. Thanks!
I will have a friend host viewers once I have the car repositioned, perhaps as early as this Sunday. Viewing depends on aligning schedules with viewer, friend and storage owner. Patience may be required.
-10/19 The owner of the storage place tells me it is filling quickly. Once my parking spot is overtaken, I'll be blocked in until summer. I'm arranging for the car to be placed near the door, and then into the aisle in front of the door, if necessary, to ensure it is removable should the process of selling the old honey take longer than the storage space takes to fill.
During this move, I'll have more pictures taken, and an assessment made of its current condition.
If all goes well, I should have this posted by Sunday night-- assuming Chinese internet connection cooperation. Tuesday latest.
-additional photos linked below.
http://s1262.photobucket.com/user/saveacs/library/
-My friend inspected the car for me. For what it is worth, he is both a mechanical engineer and a licensed auto mechanic, and has been a 'to the core' car guy since he was a teenager.
His report is a follows:
"The car should be considered along the lines of a "barn find". It is very complete, and overall quite good. There is a bit of rust, but with a welder and a weekend, it would not be too hard to bring the car up to a level that is both safe and satisfactory, and wouldn't require painting the exterior. For anyone looking for a car to restore to a high level, by a wide margin, it will be hard to find a better foundation than this.
Body-wise, considering it's age, there isn't a lot of work here to produce a driver-level car.
The engine turns over freely, but doesn't fire even with fuel misted down the carbs or a shot of ether. I didn't see any spark, so it is likely, considering that you drove it in here, that there is some corrosion on the ignition points or something to that effect.
The carbs' throttle linkage is seized.
While cranking, I can hear a wheeze on one cylinder. It could be your guess of a poorly adjusted valve, or perhaps sticky rings on one piston are letting compression by into the crankcase, and we are hearing it out the breather. I doubt it is a big problem, given the running condition previously, and the lack of evidence present to indicate something like damage due to frozen coolant."
Further:
"Despite it not being applied, the parking brake shoes were seized to the rotors. It is because the backing plates are really rough, and allowed the shoes to touch, then over the years, they corroded and locked the wheel. It was extremely difficult to remove the rear rotors, and I damaged them in the process. The rear calipers are seized. I removed them and clipped their fluid hard lines and folded them several times to seal them. The fuel and brake lines in this vehicle should be replaced as should all the brakes, as would be expected for something that has been in storage so long.
With the rear brakes freed up, and the three flat tires pumped up (must have been slow leaks, they continued to hold air for the several hours I was there) It rolled easily. "
And:
"I found two holes and some surface rust underneath. Nothing nightmarish at all. One of the front wheel wells' aft wall had a small hole.
The right rear upper shock mount has previously been repaired. The left side was not, and the 'cap' has detached from the shock tower 'body'. That explains the clunk you described, and in a sense, you were right about it soundings like a loose upper mount. It would not be difficult to repair in a similar manner to the other side. The is no significant rust present in these areas. I took two pics of this, and when I'm putting weight on the rear bumper, you can see the left shock 'cap' lifting."
And:
"I see you never finished replacing the ignition switch and left the steering column switches partially disassembled. The key is present, as you describe, but I guess you never put the trunk lock cylinder back after making the key way back when."
I have no memory as to where the trunk lock cylinder is now. I recall keeping all those bits in a small cardboard box when I was working on this car, but whether that box is with the car or in my garage at home remains to be seen. Any leftover parts that aren't present when the buyer comes will be sent at no charge at the first opportunity.
I can't think of what else there may be other than the lock cylinder and the CD repair manual.
Also:
"By the way, the two missing hub caps are not missing. I just forgot to put them back on before taking pictures."
And finally, when I asked about my original assessment, he said:
"I can see how you could have come to that conclusion in 2010, but now with the braking system requiring a complete overhaul, probably fuel tank cleaning and carb overhauls, you should probably say $2000 in parts to make it a driver. Quite frankly, I'd update to the included fuel injection, rather than messing with parts-unobtainium carbs.
If it were mine, I would make it a winter project and have a nice driver for next spring. I'd enjoy it during the summers for a few years while squirreling away parts and cash for a big resto including that bigger engine some years down the road. I really like the survivor look of this car, and to make it into something I'd be terrified to take to the store or drive in the rain would motivate me to enjoy it for a while before taking that plunge."
-Regarding viewing, he is generally available in the evenings, but will be away for 2.5 weeks starting Oct 26. Contact me privately for his phone number. Again, it also has to match the storage owner's schedule, so patience may be required.
Here is how it looked when I bought it. It has been in garage storage ever since.
That's bird crap on the trunk lid, by the way.
Last edited:
