Loose heater core?

[lsquaredb]

Hi everyone,

What ever the heater hoses attach to behind the fire wall is loose and banging around. I can pull on the hoses and shake it. I presume that's the heater core. How hard is it to get to its mounting hardware? Thanks.

Leonard

1970 2800CSA Bristol

 

[aearch]

difficult you have to pull the whole box out
its held tight by the plastic internal frame

 

[autowerks]

I think you have to pull out the heater core housing which is held by four nuts from inside

 

[Sven]

Yes, the heater housing needs to come out. The core is probably rattling around inside because the 1/8" foam surrounding it has disintegrated.

 

[lsquaredb]

Can the core come out by just removing the center console and under dash, or does the whole dash have to come out?

 

[Sven]

Yes. It is a PINA job though. The large plastic box is a tight fit between the tunnel and under dash tray. No AC makes it a bit easier.

 

[HB Chris]

dash stays in place, removing A/C is no fun if you have it. Vent controls have to come out with the heater assy, but remove the face first after its loose, only two screw on the top of it.

 

[Honolulu]

you could simply disconnect and re-route the heater core hoses, thus loosing the heater function, if you chose. A lot easier...

 

[HB Chris]

It is still gonna rattle around

 

[Nicad]

I just noticed the exact same thing with my heater core today. Not planning on doing anything about it, as there are few things I hate more than working under the dash.

 

[Ohmess]

Is there a description of this process somewhere? When running my a/c on the way home from the Vintage, I did not get a stream of water from underneath the car. Then, at a pit stop, I had a small puddle. I am concerned about running through the summer with the condensation pulled out of the air being deposited into the car.

 

[HB Chris]

Chris, if no water under car check your carpets next to trans tunnel, you might find a surprise.

 

[Ohmess]

Given that my car was pulling to the left whenever I braked, I decided to attack my brakes immediately upon my return to VA.

This is next up on my list, which is why I am already thinking about how to access the drain. But you raise good point, I should pull the carpets so nothing is festering in there.

 

[HB Chris]

The only way to replace the drain is to pull the A/C box forward which means disconnecting the hard lines, not fun.

 

[Stevehose]

When I did my first clutch job I installed a short drain tube just the right fit up into the evaporator and glued it in place, it protudes 1/4" below the tunnel and drains all condensate away from the cabin.

 

[Rek]

The process is like wrestling an octopus. However once out the clips pull off and its easy to take apart. The foam insulation has probably gone as has to the felt on the air divertors. I replaced the felt with a neoprene substance that will last linger. The same with the foam, but getting it all together again is a tight job. Just take lots of photo's at each stage. Once back in it will be quite a bit less rattley and quieter. You might consider servicing the fan motor whilst its out.

Remember to fit the screen demister ducts before you refit the heater as its impossible otherwise - just ask me how I know that!