From: Art Wegweiser
Date: Sun, 14 Jan 2001 17:26:10 -0500
Subject: Trunk Lock Problem

Thanks to David for his excellent exposition of how to gain access to
a locked E3 trunk. I've personally seen him do just that -
impressive, indeed.
It is a good thing that car thieves and car valets don't pay much
attention to these eMail lists however. I don't think the procedure
would work for an E9 - but nothing of value is ever kept in a Coupe
boot anyway except a few dozen spare parts to avoid being stranded in
Gretna, Nebraska.

BUT! What were we all thinking? Of course, the Valet Key!
And, as a result, I've been asked by a number of people out there
about this Valet Key thing. A what???
So, here's some additional Pebra Key and valet information and advice
from the home office archives of a couple of years back.:

(1) Keys are listed in Sections 32/16 and 32/17 of the Mobil
Tradition and "Orange" parts catalogs along with all the ignition
switch bits and pieces and exploded diagrams.

(2) The key that opens everything is the "Generalschlussel" - no, not
one of Field Marshall Erwin Rommel's staff. Part #32 32 1 104 229.

(3) The key that operates only the ignition and doors is the
"Normalschussel". Otherwise known as a "Valet Key" Part #32 32 1 104
228. (I seem to have lost a couple of umlauts here - if found please
return; no questions asked.)

Personal Observation: Why does one really need a valet key other than
for the sake of complete E9/E3 originality?
Would you allow a valet to drive your coupe or Bavaria? Would they want to?
The last car I turned over to a valet was an 1986 AMC Eagle SW.

It is never a good idea to keep anything important in or to lock the
glove box, anyway. One quick twist of a pry bar or screw driver and
you've lost your 357 (gun content) or bra and/or jockey shorts
(undergarment content) and had your dash really messed up.
All of these are important - you explain to the cops why your weapon
was found at the scene of a crime, or - you explain to your spouse
why you didn't come home with the same underwear that you left with
that AM or - you sob and weep copiously when you find out about
availability, what it costs for parts and what it takes in labor to
replace a dash.
I leave the order of importance of these items to you. But I digress ...

(4) Obvious caveat for those that missed the lectures on Logic in Philo 101:
Using the VIN to order keys requires that you be certain that your
existing Generalschlussel key fits all locks and that nobody has
changed any locks since the vehicle was screwed together.
If it does work everything, then to be certain, consider obtaining
the key code from the trunk lock - it's the easiest to get at and
usually has two letters followed by 3 or 4 numbers. If the locks are
not all the same, then start removing things like door panels as
needed. It's not really difficult in theory but it can present some
problems like stripped screws and holes, bent door panels and trim,
plastic snap clips pulling out of the cardboard or breaking off,
rubber door gaskets and other things refusing to line up again, etc.

(5) QUERY: OK Herr Dokter Professor - you've babbled on enough and
your lovely mid January afternoon has slipped away! Where the Hell do
I order these keys??? REPLY: Maximillian at 800-950-2002 ... ask for
Paul W and tell him Art W sent ya.
Some times Munchen gets a bit fussy and wants to be certain you own
the car for which you want keys - how unreasonable of them.

You might have to mail a xerox of the registration or title to Paul
for faxing. Clearly should be no problem unless your ex-spouse/SO has
the key and registration and you want to steal the car back.

(6) Finally ... An address for duplicating keys is given in CS
Registry Newsletter Volume XIV (Vol.14 if you skipped Latin 101 when
they covered the Roman numbering system), No. 2, p. 12.
Taking your ignition lock apart? See Newsletter Vol. XIV (still #14),
No. 3/4, p. 22 for detailed description.

At 7:20 AM -0800 1/10/01, Barry Hibbing wrote:
   OK Group, here's today's dilemma!
I just got my latest purchase in today, a good clean '76 3.0si, auto,in
from sunny CA.
I went to open the trunk and it will not open. I tried the key and no go
. .

The trunk is fairly easy to get into.
You will need a rag and a roughly 6", thin (4 or 5 mm wide) flathead
Carefully pry the rear roundel emblem off of the rear decklid by pushing
the screwdriver under it, using the rag to protect the emblem and the paint.
The emblem is held down by two plastic grommets, one at three o'clock
and the other at nine o'clock.  Once you have the roundel off of the
car, remove both of the grommets.  Your screwdriver will have to be
thin enough to fit through the holes from which you removed the

If you insert the screwdriver through the right side grommet hole, with
the tip angled toward the lock mechanism, you will be able to engage the lever
that the lock pushbuttom is supposed to engage when pushed.

Using the side of the grommet hole for leverage, pull the
screwdriver handle down so the other ends goes up.
When you catch the lever correctly with the tip of the screwdriver, the
trunk should open.

If this sounds confusing, open the trunk of one of your Si 4-speed, and
you can see all of this stuff from underneath, through the small
round hole in the sheetmetal that surrounds the lock mechanism.

I also tried the rt rear door and it will not open. I made sure to pull
up the lock knob, but she still won't open . . .

Is the door handle moving up from the outside?
I presume you've tried it from tyhe inside also.

You may have to lubricate the lock stuff after taking the door panel
off. That is a PITA if you don't have the door open.

Viel Gluck,