From: Larry Klein
Date: Fri, 11 May 2001
Subject: Re: "Paging guibo#3, Guibo #3 to the staging area"
A few guibo tidbits: 1. Make sure the u-joints are alright, though they will usually take out center carrier bearings before guibos. If there is any deflection or vibration transmitted to the guibo, it will not last - obviously more powerful engines having more potential for guibo-destruction. 2. The best thing is to have a rebuilt, balanced driveshaft that is THE CORRECT LENGTH. If the driveshaft is too long or too short, it will deflect the guibo, which will kill it in short order. Ask me how I know. 3. Simply switching to an automatic guibo instead of a manual one isn't a good idea unless you are using an automatic driveshaft, in which case it is a MUST. The nose on the automatic driveshaft (with the driveshaft pilot bearing in it) is shorter than that on a manual driveshaft, owing to the thinner guibo for automatics. Meaning the driveshaft nose may bottom out before the driveshaft flanges are flat against teh guibo - distorting it. The automatic guibo seems sturdier than the manual one, being that it is a simple flat disk, rather than that complicated, non-smooth torus shape (the engineers out there are probably wincing). It is thinner, though. ALso, IMHO, adding the LSD will make it worse, as increasing the rear end traction will mean that driveline shock will have to be absorbed elsewhere. Ask a full-time all-wheel-drive car owner with a manual transmission what the lifespan of his clutch is compared to a two-wheel drive. Just my buck-and-a-half (some day I have to learn the meaning of the word `brevity') -Larry Bruno, the `72 Bavaria Erik Vaughn Aasland wrote: > > In 1257 miles no less. > > You'd think they would make one out of something besides recycled tires and > Heinekin cans. > > Wonder if this will get any better w/ an LSD. > > Erik (the responsible offensive driver)