A few guibo tidbits:

1. Make sure the u-joints are alright, though they will usually take out
center carrier bearings before guibos.  If there is any deflection or
vibration transmitted to the guibo, it will not last - obviously more
powerful engines having more potential for guibo-destruction.

2. The best thing is to have a rebuilt, balanced driveshaft that is THE
CORRECT LENGTH.  If the driveshaft is too long or too short, it will
deflect the guibo, which will kill it in short order.  Ask me how I
know.

3. Simply switching to an automatic guibo instead of a manual one isn't
a good idea unless you are using an automatic driveshaft, in which case
it is a MUST.  The nose on the automatic driveshaft (with the driveshaft
pilot bearing in it) is shorter than that on a manual driveshaft, owing
to the thinner guibo for automatics.  Meaning the driveshaft nose may
bottom out before the driveshaft flanges are flat against teh guibo -
distorting it.  The automatic guibo seems sturdier than the manual one,
being that it is a simple flat disk, rather than that complicated,
non-smooth torus shape (the engineers out there are probably wincing).
It is thinner, though.

ALso, IMHO, adding the LSD will make it worse, as increasing the rear
end traction will mean that driveline shock will have to be absorbed
elsewhere.  Ask a full-time all-wheel-drive car owner with a manual
transmission what the lifespan of his clutch is compared to a two-wheel
drive.

Just my buck-and-a-half (some day I have to learn the meaning of the
word `brevity')

-Larry
 Bruno, the `72 Bavaria

Erik Vaughn Aasland wrote:
>
> In 1257 miles no less.
>
> You'd think they would make one out of something besides recycled tires and
> Heinekin cans.
>
> Wonder if this will get any better w/ an LSD.
>
> Erik (the responsible offensive driver)