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Thanks guys, valuable information. Just for interests sake as I plan to use Don’s file tip, what is the correct dip stick for the 3.5 block with the 3.0 pan? Cheers John

Thanks Jesus, I have never been 100% sure that the dipstick is the correct one based on the fact that the b34 has the old 3.0 ltr sump( oil pan) and possibly reads differently. I will take a photo in the morning.

Hey gents, As my car gets such limited miles I have forgotten which oil I should use and the right amount, It‘S a 1988 m30b34 but I’ve never been completely sure of the level according to the dipstick. Thanks in advance John

I had a very similar problem with my car, hot or cold under anything more than gentle off the line acceleration the propshaft would thump pretty violently, after checking everything more than once I replaced the transmission mount with a gearbox mount from a 2002 and a couple of washers, problem...

I really like the new comedy section on the forum, should it not have its own section though?

Unless you want oem and are prepared to pay the price, check with your local brake specialist you may be surprised there are other generic discs that fit

Thanks guys for your replies, looks like by the time I factor in conversion rate and shipping/ duties they would work out to be about the same price as here. Leaning towards leaving them standard except for upgrading the pads with some EBC Green stuff replacements. Cheers John

Please see my post in ‘Off Topic’ cheers. John

Hi all, I recently bought a modern classic to compliment my coupe, a 2003 e46 330ci and looking to upgrade the brakes before anything else ... So there is a brake conversion that uses the six pot Brembo Calipers from the 135 with a bracket made by a US company that allows the fronts to fit...

Spent a couple of hours giving all the chrome some love, the belt line has to be done regularly as it’s not coated and we are close to the ocean. Came up well

No, not sold. If the right offer comes along ... wife keen to keep it although she won’t drive it....

Gazz, the seal is nla ... there was some being sold on the bay but when they arrived they were not the correct ones, I had to modify to fit, still not great.

Agree with Alan, hand sand around the leaky area and two or three coats should fix it.

Thanks guys for your feedback, I was just a little concerned with the low numbers when idling and on start up. It also sounds a bit ‘tappity’ for the first minute or two but this soon disappears so I assume this would be related to the oil getting up into the valve train, tappers were set...

Finally got my supplementary gauges sorted and working and noticed this reading on the oil pressure gauge. First photo at tick over, warm engine Second photo at 2500 rpm No red idiot light ever

Well this post came just at the right time, my b35 has started to sound a bit ‘tappety’ so I was going to add a little more oil to see if I can see any reduction in top end chatter, can’t remember what I’ll was used last time but I’ll give the Castrol a go and add 250 mls a time, also fairly...

Don’t think you would get that through an engineer report down under...just saying

Metric mechanic has a complete Head with all the bits done including cam for $2700 if that’s worth considering... Once you take out the cost of a replacement head, cam , valves ect and rebuild costs it might be worth considering

Here’s mine, I managed to get both dials and radio in, the rocker switch’s work the front driving lights (spots) at least one of them does the other is purely for balance, although I should connect the rear fog light to it... next project

Your vinyl covered side panels are made from crappy old chipboard that’s 40 plus years old, if it has been apart before there’s a very good chance that the small screws that hold it together won’t have a strong bite and will possibly pull apart, after a couple of failed attempts with mine I...