1974 CSa “Brünhilda” – Bare metal restoration/conversion into road-rally car

NiekN

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Welcome all!

After being nudged by a few members to post my restoration on here as well, I have decided to start this thread. I already run the whole project on my website and various social media channels but figured I missed out a large group of E9 enthusiasts by not including this Forum. So hopefully this thread will change that. Any and all feedback, questions and general comments are more than welcome and appreciated.

Slight warning: This first post will be a rather lengthy one as I will be introducing the car and covering the work/episodes published so far.

A small note for the purists; This car will be leaning towards a restomod project as she is being converted into a rally car with a few modern upgrades/modifications (such as new electrics, roll cage, bucket seats, & gearbox) although the bulk of the car will remain original in order to qualify for the events I’ll be taking part in (bodywork, subframes, suspension, engine, rear seats, etc).

BMW E9 Small.jpeg


For those interested in my website and social media channels where more information, update details, photos and previous work can be found:

Website – www.nieknijsen.com | Instagram – E9Brunhilda | YouTube – BrunhildaE9 | FaceBook– E9Brunhilda

Car history & Name

I am sure everyone here is familiar with BMW’s E9 history and I have therefor omitted from rewriting it here. However, there is far more information on my website, both about the E9s in general and my car in specific for those interested. Below is a brief introduction on how I acquired the car and part of her history.

Brünhilda was born on 24 July 1974 in Munich, Germany as a 3.0CSa (automatic) bearing the colour “Atlantik” blue with VIN number 4320293. She was exported the following week to the Belgian BMW importer Moorkens in Antwerp. Unfortunately, the years that followed, including who her first owner was, remain a mystery for now. I am trying hard to find out more information and any help is more than appreciated. What I do know is that she remained in Belgium and ended up in a Chateau somewhere in the Ardennes, where her owner kept her amidst his collection of Italian super cars. This particular owner gave her a bodywork restoration in what seems to have been the early 2000’s, before giving the car to his kids for them to learn how to drive in. From here the story goes that the aforementioned owner also had an Austin Healey in which he participated in the Tulip Rally, the same rally my dad participated in with a friend of his. And since my dad's friend happened to drive the same car, they were invited to the man’s home residence. As part of the tour, they ended up in the basement where they were shown the car collection. It was quickly pointed out that the BMW did not “fit in” amongst the classic Italian Ferrari’s, Maserati’s and Lamborghini’s. At this point a reasonable share of alcohol may have been involved, but the owner agreed and made my dad an offer to buy the car from him. Perhaps not the typical “barn-find” story, but that is how we ended up with a Coupé in our family.

At first the car was stored next to the Austin Healey, where my brother and I learned to drive it as we went up and down the 400-meter driveway. In 2007 the decision was made to get the car road certified, and we drove it to the local testing station, but she never made it there. Somewhere along the way the oil lubrication system inside the engine had clogged up and as a result one of the pistons seized, resulting in a catastrophic engine failure. Without much choice, work began on restoring the engine, while also taking care of the front end of the car now that we had easy access. Practically every part was restored or replaced, including the support frame, shock absorbers and suspension, radiator, brakes, a new coat of rust protection and finally fresh paint for the engine bay. Sadly, the progress came to a halt when I moved to the USA in 2011 and the car ended up in long-term storage.

Skip ahead a few years to 2018 when she was pulled from under her layer of dust and shipped to the UK where I now lived, with a new attempt at getting her road worthy again. While being kept in a family member’s garage, the electrical work was completed and after 12 years of silence, she was roaring loudly again as we got the engine running over Christmas that same year. However, progress once again was put on halt as I moved to a new house and began preparing my own garage for her arrival.

It is now early 2020 and after many years, Brünhilda is finally home.

I am sure some of you might be wondering why the name Brünhilda? In my eyes a (classic) car should always be addressed as a ‘she’ and with that comes a female name. Choosing a name comes with a few rules in my regard; It has to match the car’s country of origin (Germany), start with the same letter as the colour (Blau/blue), and match the character of the car. With that in mind, is there any better name than that of the German Valkyrie “Brünhilda”?

slide-1.jpg


With the car finally at my new home, I was ready to start the momentous job of performing a full restoration of a car in my residential garage. I think part of what makes the project special and different to others is that the bulk of the work will be done by myself (with the occasional help of an extra pair of hands) and with a limited amount of time, space, knowledge and tools. Granted, some work will be outsourced simply because I do not have the space, tools or skill for it.

I knew that from the start I wanted to record and share the entire project, at first just for me and later generations within the family, but soon enough also for all the fellow E9 owners, enthusiasts and general car lovers. With that, the name “Project C.A.R.” was born and I started recording episodes which are being published every 2 weeks on my YouTube channel. Since we are a bit behind here, I have posted the very first and last two episodes below with a brief introduction on what to expect. The last episode is a "special", which covers 2020 in this case and explains all I have done so far (basically the full process of stripping the car). All other episodes can be found on my YouTube channel and website.

Future updates will be posted in this thread as they become available.

The first episode in the series, listed as episode 0, is a brief introduction to the project and what to expect (I know, it's a bit cheesy and "scripted", but it was my first time recording after all - I promise I got better as time went on).


Episode 20 is one of my the bi-weekly updates as the car was gone at the time of recording, so we cover the cleaning of some very dirty parts.


Episode 21 is a regular episode again, covering the conversion to triple Weber carburettors.


The episode below is one of my specials, either because they cover something that did not fit in the regular series, or simply because I ran out of time to get enough material for an episode and needed something to fill the bi-weekly update.

Special 02 is a Christmas special where we look back at the year 2020 and everything I have done so far.

 

Ron Plantz

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I was an early subscriber to the YouTube episodes on this project. Taught me a lot about our Coupes and helped me deal with Covid winter shut-in. I was always surprised at just how much he could get done with limited tools in a small garage.
 

NiekN

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Thanks @Ron Plantz! And thank you for subscribing, I'm glad the series is of use. Makes two of us, I think the main thing with a small garage is figuring out how to maximise the space and use of it. Took me a while but I think I'm nearly there, few things I still want to change. I'm also thinking of doing an episode not too distant from now covering the tools I use all the time and those I never took out of the box, perhaps useful to some who are looking at doing something similar with a limited tool budget. Feedback is always welcome, especially if there are things you'd like to see.

Thank you @Markos! Any and all feedback from your wealth of knowledge is much appreciated :)
 

nosmonkey

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Great to see you on here Niek, following on Facebook and on YouTube for quite a while now.
Looking forward to the next installment!

Ahmet
 

autokunst

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Hello Niek,
Welcome to the forum. I'd subscribed to your YouTube channel a while ago and have been been watching your Brünhilda series. I'm only about 12 episodes in, but plan to continue the series through the project completion.
Stephen
 

NiekN

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Hi all,

I've uploaded a new episode this morning which discusses the removal of studs without damaging them (I'm sure all of you know how to do this) and the new off-set piece for the thermostat housing to fit with the triple carbs, which I was informed about in a different thread on this forum:

 

jpg10

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Hi there and welcome,

I've been a subscriber and watched everything so far - keep it up. You'll be a welcome addition to this already very helpful forum!

You may want to look at @Stevehose's 123ignition setup for the triple weber if you've not already....

I will warn you that this forum definitely leads to temptation and scope creep on anything you start doing :)
 

NiekN

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Hi @jpg10 ! Thank you for your kind feedback and subscribing to the channel! Hopefully the next episode will include a look at the car in the bodyshop.

I'm indeed planning on using the 123Ign. and will certainly take a look at his info on them. Heard some very good things about them.

Thank you!
 

NiekN

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Hi all,

Not much has happened since the last episode, most of my time is spent waiting on parts to arrive so I can continue work on the engine. In the meantime I've been to see the car, which sadly requires more work than initally anticipated (it seems the previous repairs have done more damage than good, which now has to be rectified in order to have a safe car).

 

Carmine

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Hi all,

Not much has happened since the last episode, most of my time is spent waiting on parts to arrive so I can continue work on the engine. In the meantime I've been to see the car, which sadly requires more work than initally anticipated (it seems the previous repairs have done more damage than good, which now has to be rectified in order to have a safe car).


Hi and good afternoon.

I'm already your follower on YouTube and I have a question for you.
If I'm right in your 74 you have the latest seat belt setup.
In order to upgrade my 72 seat belt setup can you share some sketch / measure about the exact position of bolt shown below?

Thanks!

1620581859483.png
 

NiekN

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Hi @Carmine,

Thank you for following my series on YouTube, I hope you're enjoying it.

I'm at work this week but when I'm back this weekend I'll have a look for you. I currently don't have the car at home because it's at the bodyshop, but I'm sure I'll have some photos that I can work with to give you some idea.

Kind regards,
Niek
 

Arde

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Nice car. My car was also born as a CSa, but it never lived in a chateau car harem.
Based on the naming ideas I could use the German name "Verena" for its Verona color.
Stan's car could be "Rotten Wilhelmina" for its red and white.

Apologize for not following yet the restoration video, for now I am following La Liga games, which are faster paced :).
 

NiekN

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Hi @Arde,

Thank you for your kind words. If Verena doesn't stick you could always try "Valda" (powerful ruler), think that's pretty suitable for the E9.

At least you've found yourself a worthy series to watch during La Liga's winter break ;)
 

NiekN

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Good morning all,

I've realised that although my restoration is progressing, I haven't updated my thread here in almost 2 years!? My sincerest apologies. :oops:

I'm currently writing an update on the progress which I'll be posting here in the next few days as well, but for those that would like to know what's been going on since my last update, you can read it all here: Brünhilda News. I've also updated a few more videos; Project CAR.

Thank you!
Niek
 

NiekN

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Evening all,

I've finally written an update on my restoration, which I've copied below. More photos are found here Restoration Photos and videos are found here Project C.A.R.

Although the garage was colder than the fridge for most of the winter, I have since been able to do some work on the car. Especially with the help of my dad who was here for a week during my daughter’s birthday. Anyway, enough of the introduction pleasantries, you’re here to find out what’s been happening with the restoration. Let’s get on with it!

In the previous update (“She’s Back”), I managed to crush the door soon after the car was back. You’ll be pleased to hear that Chris and his colleagues have repaired said door and it's now ready to be fitted again. Since access is much easier without it, they’ve kindly offered to keep it in storage until the car goes back to them for paint. Thanks Chris!

The passenger is still lacking his/her/their seat and will do so for the foreseeable future, as I’ve realised it will only be in my way and it’s better to do this towards the end of all my work. On top of that, we actually removed the passenger door as well, this time in one piece, to facilitate easier access while working. You’ll notice that the bonnet/hood is missing, too. That’s now laying on the roof of the car to make work in the engine bay possible. All it needs now is a big hole in the floor and we’ve got ourselves a Flintstone car :)

The first step would be to enlarge the “hole” in which the new AC unit will sit. Once that was done, we would need to put the engine back in the car before being able to do anything else. With that would come the new gearbox and mounting bracket issue. This can then be followed by all the auxiliaries that need a home, along with the required plumbing and wiring. I think I’ve mentioned it before, but it seems that if I want to sort out one thing, I need to do 3 or 4 other things first. Why I thought starting with the wires was a good idea is still beyond me. Anyway, I digress. Let’s start cutting a perfectly restored bodyshell.

The new A/C unit we selected, is slightly too wide for the existing heater hole, a whopping 7 mm to be exact. While the engine bay was still empty and very little else in the way, my dad decided this would be the best place to start and with the help of a few clamps, one of the door hinges, and a big hammer, he went to work. The original brackets and strengthening rails were drilled out and removed, which was quickly followed by a lot of banging, cutting, and grinding. Once the hole was big enough, the rails were welded back in place, and everything was primed and re-painted to protect the now-exposed steel. The actual fitting of the unit and accompanying parts will follow later in this update, bear with me.

Okay, remember where a bit earlier I questioned myself on why I started with the wiring first? Well, long story short, we decided it was better to remove it all again, as the spaghetti chaos is in the way more often than it’s not. I may have uttered a few naughty words, but eventually, the entire loom was removed from the car. Once it was out, I realised this was actually a great opportunity for me to sort out some of the wires I wasn’t happy with, especially on the fuse block itself. The type I ordered is the “through bulkhead” instead of a standard “grommet” type unit. As a result of where I placed it, a lot of the wires go from the steering wheel (located on the left) to the fuse block (located on the right) and back again to then go into the engine bay. A far easier and quicker way would be to just go from wheel to engine bay, obviously. I still need to adjust my drawings and physical wire layout, but I’ve now removed these wires and connections on the fuse block and tidied most of the wires up at the same time. The end result will be a far cleaner loom and fewer wires going crisscross through the car unnecessarily.

Time to fit the engine. After collecting the engine crane from a kind neighbour, we removed the block from its stand and began the process of merging the new gearbox. As most of you will know, I’m swapping the original 3-speed automatic with a 5-speed manual. In theory, this should be a fairly straight swap, which it actually is. The bell housing fits nicely and only misaligns a single bolt, which is good enough for me (this is solvable by enlarging the hole and using a bigger bolt, which I might do anyway). The most important part is that it seals correctly; from what I can see, it does. I did consider using the original bell housing, but because it’s slightly different from an automatic, it wouldn’t work. I haven’t included any of the internal workings yet such as the clutchplate, as it didn’t affect the ability to fit the gearbox into the car. Time to lower the engine onto the subframe and bolt it all onto the car. Aside from a few small hick-ups with one of the bolts refusing to seat properly (he changed his mind very quickly when we showed him the big hammer), the engine and gearbox merged with the car seamlessly. However, with regards to the gearbox, this is where things get interesting because I’ve noticed a lot of people that do this conversion, complain about the mounting bracket for the rear end of the box. Instead of paying 600$ for a very basic and not too-good-looking alternative, we decided to change the mounts on the chassis instead. A new steel plate was made, and a nut was welded on, which sits in the little rail and allows the standard bracket to be bolted on again. Success, and our first home-made custom bracket is done.

The next major part to be installed would be the new air filter, which is standard for the CSi and CSL models, but because mine used to be a CS, it was never part of the car before. The original for my car sits on top of the engine, whereas the new one is mounted to the right-side of the engine bay. Unfortunately, this also meant that the mounting bracket was missing. Based on photos we could find, my dad made the bracket from scratch using 1.5mm stainless steel, a hammer, and some arm muscle. After a lot of test fitting and perfecting the bracket, the filter housing was mounted to the car. Now at this point, you would normally drill holes in the shell and bolt it all onto the car using your standard nut/bolt combination. Since we didn’t want to have any open holes in the car, we decided to use closed nut rivets instead. These are basically rivets you insert into the hole (you still need to drill one), but when “pulled”, form a closed nut with thread inside for the bolt. Basically, although my description is pretty poor, you end up with a closed nut to mount things to, thus sealing the car from any water potentially causing rust down the line. To be extra safe, we used body sealer before placing the nut rivet. Somehow, I bought the wrong tool, but with a bit of ingenuity, a bolt, and a wrench, we managed to fit them after all. This process has been and will be repeated many more times as I intend to mount all auxiliaries, cable clamps, and brackets using these nut rivets.

Now came the moment of truth though, with the new carburettors and airbox, would the steering column and brake booster still fit? Short answer: Not really. Long answer: Yes, but with the engine running and vibrations that come along with it, they would constantly be in contact and over time damage both parts. Not optimal. The initial solution involved a big hammer and a large socket, which were used to “reshape” the brake booster. Sadly, this turned out to be insufficient. Okay, well let’s grind some off the inlet manifold. Hmm, still insufficient space. Mind you, it is worth mentioning that I decided to retain the original (large) brake booster, which obviously was the cause of the issue. But we agreed it would pay off during the long-distance rallies since less pedal force would be required. Anyway, the only option left at this point is to change the angle of the steering column. The pedal box was taken apart and the angle grinder was introduced. What followed was a rain of sparks and a 1 mm cut for about 75% of the pipe. This was then bent so a bigger offset would create the clearing we needed from the engine. Once happy it all fitted, the steering column was welded together again. Granted, we now need to make a new mounting bracket for support, but the major work is done.

[SEE NEXT POST]​
 

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