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Wes

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Well she finally arrived in Tasmania last week after a somewhat extended trip from Canberra where I purchased her from another Forum member. Picked it up from my mother's place this morning ahead of a 300km drive back home to Hobart.
Have to say she ran like a dream but we had some very unseasonal thunder storms and associated torrential rain on the way home. Wouldn't have been a problem if the wipers worked. Note to self move 'fix wipers' to top of the list.
I've stuck my head in most of the places where rust like to live and apart from some small problems in the bonnet near the vents it seems (touch wood) we are looking pretty good.
I suspect the car had a major respray 20ish years back and that has saved much of the body from the dreaded rot.
That said there appears to be some small bubbling in the paint just forward of the doors (pictured) but you cant see anything from the fuse or glove box.
The plan now is to give the car a good look over ahead of sorting all the usual problems, window motors, and the odd missing piece of trim. I want to be able to drive the car for the next year or two ahead of a major overhaul where we go back t the original colour - Ceylon Gold.
After considerable time and effort invested trying to find a decent E9 I cant actually believe there is one sitting in my shed.
I look forward to members help, opinions and support for the work ahead.
 

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nosmonkey

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Looks like a great buy! Not too many Ceylons about so will be nice to see it in its original colour.

Enjoy!
 

Mal CSL 3.0

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Looks like a very nice specimen Wes.
Btw if you did drive through torrential rain, I would suggest you leave her out in the sun to really dry out completely. And also stick some wire in the sill drains to make sure they are letting any trapped water escape and squirt a bit of WD 40 around as a water displacer. No other car oxidises as fast as an E9.
 

Wes

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Looks like a very nice specimen Wes.
Btw if you did drive through torrential rain, I would suggest you leave her out in the sun to really dry out completely. And also stick some wire in the sill drains to make sure they are letting any trapped water escape and squirt a bit of WD 40 around as a water displacer. No other car oxidises as fast as an E9.
I wondered about that.
I've parked it under a carport for a bit as I thought it would let the filtered sun and some breeze dry her out.
Anywhere else other than the sills I should be spraying?
 

Wes

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Scuba diving was a blow out this morning so what better thing to do than get to work on my car.

First things first I took Mal's advice and checked that all the drain holes were clear for the sills, thankfully they are. I then sprayed 'Penetrol' into the one closest to the back wheel until it started to come out of all the drain holes right up to the edge of the forward wheel well. This product is fantastic, use it on my boat all the time, it's a moisture excluder and a rust preventative too.
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I then set to work on trying to fix the centre consul as it didn't seat properly for some reason.

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After a bit of stuffing around I found that the bracket holding the consul down had come away from the mounting and the left hand side one was about to go the same way.

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Looks like the screws that were in place were too short and had pulled away from the timber mount.
After a not inconsequential amount of jiggling it looks heaps better now.




IMG_1310-1.JPG


One job down, how may to go...
I also compiled a list of pieces I need to source but will post them under WTB.
 

Peter Coomaraswamy

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Hi Wes and congratulations on the new family member. The rust bubble area behind the door can be accessed by removing the rear interior card allowing you a look all the way in. Also, from the shot of you injecting the penetrol into the drain holes it looks like you have some very sturdy rockers which is a MAJOR plus!!
 

Wes

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Hi Wes and congratulations on the new family member. The rust bubble area behind the door can be accessed by removing the rear interior card allowing you a look all the way in. Also, from the shot of you injecting the penetrol into the drain holes it looks like you have some very sturdy rockers which is a MAJOR plus!!
Thanks Peter, glad to have it home.
Are you saying take the door cards off to take a look or the covers that run into/behind the glove box (passenger side) and the one on the drivers side next to the steering column?
 

Peter Coomaraswamy

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Wes, my bad, I've been staring at BMW's for the last 36 hours straight and thought the picture with the bubbles was from the rear of the door, upon closer look at the picture I see it's from the front, so... the point of my comment was to try to get directly behind the bubbles to determine whether the corrosion is coming from inside or outside. Since you mention a 20 yr. old respray and from what I can get from the pictures I'm thinking it may be from the paint side, I say that because that area is sometimes less prepped even by good painters and the rockers look really clean. All that being said, I think you can get direct access to that area by removing the wheel and removing the guard and gasket in the back of the wheel well, the guard is held on by a few 10 mm bolts and that area on both sides can be easily cleaned. I'm including a link to my e9 rust video... I have no shame :)

 

Wes

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Wes, my bad, I've been staring at BMW's for the last 36 hours straight and thought the picture with the bubbles was from the rear of the door, upon closer look at the picture I see it's from the front, so... the point of my comment was to try to get directly behind the bubbles to determine whether the corrosion is coming from inside or outside. Since you mention a 20 yr. old respray and from what I can get from the pictures I'm thinking it may be from the paint side, I say that because that area is sometimes less prepped even by good painters and the rockers look really clean. All that being said, I think you can get direct access to that area by removing the wheel and removing the guard and gasket in the back of the wheel well, the guard is held on by a few 10 mm bolts and that area on both sides can be easily cleaned. I'm including a link to my e9 rust video... I have no shame :)

Appropriate product placement is welcome on this thread :)

Great video.

I think 'if you see rust look some more. If you see more rust look some more. And if you see more rust look elsewhere,' pretty much sums up E9 maintenance.

I had a look in the front wheel well the other day, especially right down at the bottom where it looks like several pieces of metal all come together - this is below the guard you mention - looked ok.

Might have get the jack out on the weekend and take the wheels off and remove that guard.
I stuck my head inside the glove box and the wiring cavity near the column too and the metal work in there looks ok, as does most of the firewall.
I'm hoping that as this car spent quite some time in South Africa and then in storage in Australia the weather hasn't had as as much of a chance to get into it.
 

Bmachine

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Great looking car, Wes. Congratulations!

Are there many/any reputable BMW shops in Tazzy in case you need that?

PS: How far on your list is "Change the gear shift knob"? ;-)
 

Wes

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Great looking car, Wes. Congratulations!

Are there many/any reputable BMW shops in Tazzy in case you need that?

PS: How far on your list is "Change the gear shift knob"? ;-)
I've a good BMW mechanic here in Hobart and same for body works.
When it comes to specialist parts/advice I come here or order online.

That gear knob is reasonably far up the list. I'll post pics of the change over as it's a bit of a shocker..
What's your thoughts on a replacement, NOS with only the BMW logo on top, or try to find a period MOMO one that matches the wheel?
 

Bmachine

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I've a good BMW mechanic here in Hobart and same for body works.
When it comes to specialist parts/advice I come here or order online.
Great to hear that!
That gear knob is reasonably far up the list. I'll post pics of the change over as it's a bit of a shocker..
What's your thoughts on a replacement, NOS with only the BMW logo on top, or try to find a period MOMO one that matches the wheel?
Great to hear that as well!
As far as which replacement, that is absolutely a "personal preference" item. My guiding principle is "Does it fit the style and the spirit of the car and was it made by BMW?". Several fit that mission but IMHO those later high tech ones do not. I just use the classic OEM black leather one:

04d3632a8ae8edb3c106c38767225cf8.jpg
 
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Wes

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Great to hear that!

Great to hear that as well!
As far as which replacement, that is absolutely a "personal preference" item. My guiding principle is "Does it fit the style and the spirit of the car and was it made by BMW?". Several fit that mission but IMHO those later high tech ones do not. I just use the classic OEM black leather one:

View attachment 39164

That's the knob I was thinking of.
Will hunt one down.
 

Bmachine

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That's the knob I was thinking of.
Will hunt one down.
They're easy to find on eBay for about USD100. But if you're patient sometimes they comes up for half that. As always you want to make sure you get a real OEM one and not the chinese crap.

https://www.ebay.com/p/BMW-E10-2002-Leather-Shift-Knob-25111203074/1611232077?iid=140617192701&_trkparms=aid=222007&algo=SIM.MBE&ao=1&asc=47300&meid=0e22709739e84be791de1c0519cd6ed5&pid=100005&rk=2&rkt=6&sd=320971284914&_trksid=p2047675.c100005.m1851
 
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Wes

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So I've added replacement gear knob to the list.

Had some free time today so tackled a couple more problems with mixed results. First off one of the rear windows didn't seem to want to work, although I could hear the clicking sound.
After removing some trim I had access to the motor and mechanism.

IMG_1318.JPG

This also gave me a chance to have a good look around for rust and I'm glad to say didn't seem to see much in either the side panel, floor or rear bulkhead.
Seems the motor was simply stuck, possibly from lack of use as the car was in storage for some time before I got it. The window now moves freely after a little jiggling. There does however seem to be an issue with the window switch, which I suspect might be broken.

Happy with the progress I set my attention to the sunroof, which didn't seem to work at all.
The first problem was easy to fix as one of the wires on the back of the dash switch had come away. Fixing this gave power to the motor and we were off and running.
However, the sunroof doesn't want to close completely. If you manipulate the shaft through the hood lining it can be closed again but that's it.
The motor seems to stick just before the rear edge of the roof panel pushes up to be flush with the roof.
The motor seems a little 'tired' when under power so it set me thinking it might be an electrical issue.
Looking around inside the hood lining you can see this rather interesting bit of work:





IMG_1319.JPG

No idea what the two loose wires are for.
Any ideas team?
 
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