3.5l swap sessions...completed

billpatterson

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Hi there
Spring has sprung and I have begun prepping for the M30B35 swap. I'll try and capture the process I follow in this post. As this is the 2nd time I am taking the engine out, I don't believe there are any secrets; pretty straight forward mechanics. I have described this to family and friends as a puzzle.

First session (~3 hours),
- Removed hood
- Disconnected the battery
- Drained the crankcase oil and coolant
- I removed the oil filter can, just to get it out of the way
- Then I removed the radiator and give it a good rinse
- Loosened AC, Alt v belts and removed (PS pump was rebuilt this winter and not reinstalled)
- Removed radiator fan from water pump
- Removed coolant hoses, fuel lines, mechanical fuel pump
- Then removed the thermostat housing
- Disconnected and removed alternator
- Disconnected leads to starter
- Removed HT leads and distributor
- Left off today with removing vacuum hoses to carbs and the throttle rod

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billpatterson

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Hi there
Here is what I did during the 2nd session (About 1 hour),

- Installed the 1/8" NPT plug into the 3.5 l oil filter mount to ensure I have oil pressure.
- Removed heater coolant hoses
- Removed oil filter mount (creates space to get those those PIA lower manifold nuts
- Ground down a 12 mm open ended spanner to get unto those lower intake manifold nuts
- Removed intake manifolds with carbs attached
- Removed starter

The next session will be under the car. Hang the AC pump, remove the exhaust down pipes, exhaust manifolds, bell housing-engine bolts, and will block the bellhousing (as I'm hoping to remove this engine and install the 3.5 l with the bell housing/gearbox in the car; trying to make as much room as possible).

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Regards,
Bill
 
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billpatterson

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Hi
Session 3 was a short one. I had about 1 hour before I had to watch a hockey game. Focused on exhaust.

- Removed down pipes
- Realized I needed to remove the exhaust, because of the slip joints between down pipes and resonator
- Removed the exhaust manifolds

Session 4 was this afternoon and was about 3 h long. Basically hung the AC and pulled the engine.

- Supported the bellhousing-gearbox with the winch or tie down strap. I want to see if I can install the engine with the bellhousing-gearbox in situ
- Detached the AC bracket and pump and zip tied the pump to the subframe, w/o loosening any fittings
- Had lunch and pondered whether I missed anything
- Assembled the engine hoist and jacked the car up a bit to accommodate the hoist's support legs going under the car
- Got the engine weight on the hoist and removed the engine mounts; I did not want anything to hang up on anything else. I figure the more room the better
- Once I saw the bellhousing-gearbox lift a wee bit I separated it from the engine with a pry bar; came apart easy.
- The engine rotated to the passenger side after being removed from the bellhousing-gearbox. I think...to make install easier...I will winch strap the engine along that axis back to the lift harness (mimic the installed tilt) during install. This should make mating the engine with the bellhousing-gearbox 'easier'
- It was a lil tight lifting past the fire wall and rad support. Some cardboard protects the AC condenser.
- Engine lifted out nicely and balanced across the hoist's support legs with some 2x6 help.
- Began removing bits of the 3.0 l for install on the 3.5 l. Began and ended with clutch and flywheel.

Going to invest in one off those engine hoist tilter contraptions for install...

Cheers
Bill

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HB Chris

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You did good! I did this on the 2800 seven years ago or so, same with the e9 b35 swap. Either way it isn’t a lot of fun. When reinstalling I put motor in and then lifted trans back in place, I don’t think it will be easy to align the splines otherwise but good luck.
 

billpatterson

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You did good! I did this on the 2800 seven years ago or so, same with the e9 b35 swap. Either way it isn’t a lot of fun. When reinstalling I put motor in and then lifted trans back in place, I don’t think it will be easy to align the splines otherwise but good luck.

Thank you!

That is Plan A. I am preparing myself for Plan B.

Regards
 

billpatterson

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When you go to put the engine in, make sure that you jack up the gearbox so it is tight against the tunnel and does not move around. Leave it in 4th
so you can easily rotate the output shaft to help the splines align Not so bad to do.

Thanks, Rick

Hi there
Is it the drivers side rear wheel that drives and the passenger side that slips? I will jack up that wheel (drivers?) and use it to turn the gearbox to align the splines...

Cheers
 

billpatterson

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Hi there
I have been lazy but I finished trimming out the B35 with the peripherals from the 3.0 l.

Today, I finally got up enough gumption to install the B35. I also wanted to attend to a few things while the engine bay was empty: touched up the heat/sound insulation, installed a new PSP pressure hose, and tightened the steering box a hair.

To help the install the engine (with the transmission in) I did two things that I think really helped. 1) was attaching a belly strap that when tightened rotated the engine to its angle when installed and 2) I made 2 guiding pins that helped match-guide the engine to transmission. Heads up; they didn't unscrew as easy as they did going on; I needed to use a impact driver rigged up with 18" of extension and a flat screwdriver bit to remove them.

A engine tilter is necessary to get the correct angle of approach.

I am quite relieved the engine went in with the tranny in. I was mentally prepped, though, for the alternative.

Now is time to install the rest of the engine bay bits...

Cheers
Bill

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billpatterson

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Hi there
Darn play off hockey is getting in the way of getting the B35 swap finished. Though it is going together more quickly than the disassembly.

After the engine was in, I'm working from bottom to top,
-Swapped out the original B30 crankshaft pulleys, following HB Chris and Mike Goble direction. This assures all the pulleys align
-Installed PSP and AC pump
-Figuring out v-belts; have the crank-water pump-alternator belt, the crank-PSP belt and need to sort out the crank-AC belt
-Since the B35 doesn't have a coolant fitting for the water chokes, I switched the Webers over to electric chokes. Have you ever bought from oversea-auto? Really good source of Weber bits and located in Vancouver, Can. Jim Hilton is known as a Weber Guru http://overseas-auto.com/weber-carburetors-repair-kits-jets-conversions-information/
-Installed back manifold/carb, then starter, then second manifold/carb
-Installed thermostat casing and oil filter mount and can with a fresh filter (Note: Self, Don't forget the oil)

If my accounting is correct,
- Ignition system
- I have coolant, electrical, and fuel connections to finish
- Since the B35 doesn't use a mechanical fuel pump, you have to install an electric pump. I going to use a low pressure Carter pump (4070 I think) and Revolution Electronics controller https://www.revolutionelectronics.com/Products/Fuel_Pump.html

Regards,
Bill
 
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billpatterson

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Hi there
I think this is my last post on this. I have completed the B35 swap with great success. Boy oh boy...what a nice improvement!

- Set the engine at TDC and fit the distributor and HT leads. Haynes provides a nice description of this. And set the point's gap
- I swap over to electric chokes and capped off the coolant choke return on the first manifold
- connected the remaining coolant hoses and filled with coolant
- hung a electric fuel pump just in front of the fuel tank and hooked up a control box for it and connected the carbs
- I reinstalled the oil filter housing and filled with high zinc oil

- The gasket I used for the original oil filter housing mount (B30) was the gasket from the B35 gasket kit. After I ran the car for a few minutes I heard a whooshing bubbling sound and I had about a litre of oil on the ground! The leak looked to be behind the oil filter housing. I wiped it up, added about a litre and ran the car again and watched. It was from behind the mount. After removing the housing mount I found the B35 gasket had been deformed. A search for the B30 and B35 gaskets showed the difference. The proper (B30) gasket solved the whooshing bubbly oil leak issue. Thank goodness.​
- I had a space issue with the current viscous clutch and fan. See this post about the issue and the simple solution, https://e9coupe.com/forum/threads/s...t-radiator-fan-and-coupler.40780/#post-354969.​
Compression tests indicated a range of 8.9 to 9.1 : 1. A friend came over to tune the engine including timing, dwell, vacuum gauge to help set idle, AFR and we went for a drive. My goodness; what a nice upgrade. It is running just a lil rich on idle, cruising and stepping on it. I will change the main jet down one step and enjoy...
Cheers​
Bill​
 
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