71 2800 3.3 w/triple webers on BAT

[Ohmess]

NMNA: https://bringatrailer.com/listing/1...ium=email&utm_campaign=bat_model_notification

Body, interior and engine bay look pretty nice; seems odd that the front struts, dif, half shafts and rear brakes have so much surface rust on them.

Carbs setup has the original brake booster, so the air filter for the middle carb is crushed up against the booster. He could improve airflow by changing this (and by moving the fuel line/filter from in front of the first carb filter).

And speaking of fuel line routing, I've never seen anyone run the expansion tank hose across the top of their carbs, and then zip tie the fuel lines up tightly to it. I would think this would be inviting vapor lock.

Nonetheless, a nice looking car that looks to be relatively complete.

 

[Mike Goble]

And speaking of fuel line routing, I've never seen anyone run the expansion tank hose across the top of their carbs, and then zip tie the fuel lines up tightly to it. I would think this would be inviting vapor lock.

That fuel line is on the pressure side of the pump, and vapor lock occurs on the suction side of the pump.

 

[jmackro]

What a great idea! Conveniently locating your voltage and oil pressure gauges under the hood. Now you can just pull over by the side of the road every few miles, lift the hood, and check your alternator and engine condition. I wish I'd seen this before putting my auxiliary gauges underneath the rear seats.

iary gauges

 

[boonies]

Going to see this one in person, what do you think about condition and what do you think the target price should be?

 

[HB Chris]

Tell us what you find and then a price may be recommended.

 

[Ohmess]

I like that the interior, "brightwork" and cosmetic stuff seem to all be intact. Assuming the interior is as it appears in the pictures, condition is going to depend on whether you find signs of rust on the body, how the paint looks upon close examination, and how things function when you take a test drive.

 

[Mot27cars]

What a great idea! Conveniently locating your voltage and oil pressure gauges under the hood. Now you can just pull over by the side of the road every few miles, lift the hood, and check your alternator and engine condition. I wish I'd seen this before putting my auxiliary gauges underneath the rear seats.

iary gauges

I’m moving mine from the trunk tomorrow!

 

[John H.]

I am truly surprised that nobody has mentioned the gauges on BaT! Seems like low-hanging fruit to me, or am I missing something?

 

[Markos]

I am truly surprised that nobody has mentioned the gauges on BaT! Seems like low-hanging fruit to me, or am I missing something?

I think that the voltmeter is a little silly, but it doesn’t hurt to have a pressure gauge and an AFR gauge in the engine bay. I had considered a pressure gauge at the end of my fuel rail instead of a plug.

 

[Ohmess]

I am truly surprised that nobody has mentioned the gauges on BaT! Seems like low-hanging fruit to me, or am I missing something?

It appears this would be cheap and easy to reverse, which may explain why it is not getting a lot of commentary. Obviously, data on both voltage and oil pressure is information you want while driving (along with oil temp, although it turns out this is not that useful given the massive amount of oil in our engines).

I could see the benefit of another AFR gauge under the hood when initially tuning carbs, but not as a substitute for one in the car. And if I were doing underhood gauges, I would do fuel pressure. My gauges:

 

[Markos]

It appears this would be cheap and easy to reverse, which may explain why it is not getting a lot of commentary. Obviously, data on both voltage and oil pressure is information you want while driving (along with oil temp, although it turns out this is not that useful given the massive amount of oil in our engines).

I could see the benefit of another AFR gauge under the hood when initially tuning carbs, but not as a substitute for one in the car. And if I were doing underhood gauges, I would do fuel pressure. My gauges:

Oops I thought the FS gauge was a fuel pressure. Oil pressure in the bay seems as pointless as the voltmeter.

 

[Dick Steinkamp]

It keeps the dash original and you are going to notice the stock idiot lights before you see the problem on a gauge anyway. The under hood gauges would enable you to do a little trouble shooting if one or the "idiot lights" come on. I actually don't think it's a bad idea.

I've done similar (along with coolant temp) when putting a car back together as a temporary measure during testing and debug.

 

[Mot27cars]

I knew there were good reasons I hadn’t thought of......

 

[Ohmess]

It keeps the dash original and you are going to notice the stock idiot lights before you see the problem on a gauge anyway. The under hood gauges would enable you to do a little trouble shooting if one or the "idiot lights" come on. I actually don't think it's a bad idea.

I've done similar (along with coolant temp) when putting a car back together as a temporary measure during testing and debug.

Yeah, I have had a handful of situations where I have to go around to the door and look through the window at coolant temp. If I am opening the hood to do anything electrical, I pull out the Peak meter.

 

[CSteve]

I think that the voltmeter is a little silly, but it doesn’t hurt to have a pressure gauge and an AFR gauge in the engine bay. I had considered a pressure gauge at the end of my fuel rail instead of a plug.

When I was talking to "Boonies" about the 2800 I chalked up the gauges to the excentrities of people like us.

 

[Dick Steinkamp]

When I was talking to "Boonies" about the 2800 I chalked up the gauges to the excentrities of people like us.

I like that reason the best!

 

[CSteve]

I like that reason the best!

It makes the most sense to me.

 

[MotoCarlo]

I also will be curious to hear about the car after it is looked at. Those brake lines look like they need attention pretty soon. Also that is one bouncy driving video for bilstiens. Probably time for some springs too. Also bugs me that the front and back seats color does not match. Someone spent quite a bit to redo those seats, but did not pay attention to the color tone. Could a non original car that needs lite work ,like this one , go for mid to low 30s? Problem with BAT is you cannot inspect the car unless you are lucky enough to live near it. You would have to pay for the inspection and then hope you win the bid. Seems a bit risky to me.
Good luck to Boonies. Looking forward to hearing about what you see.

 

[Ohmess]

I also will be curious to hear about the car after it is looked at. Those brake lines look like they need attention pretty soon. Also that is one bouncy driving video for bilstiens. Probably time for some springs too. Also bugs me that the front and back seats color does not match. Someone spent quite a bit to redo those seats, but did not pay attention to the color tone. Could a non original car that needs lite work ,like this one , go for mid to low 30s? Problem with BAT is you cannot inspect the car unless you are lucky enough to live near it. You would have to pay for the inspection and then hope you win the bid. Seems a bit risky to me.
Good luck to Boonies. Looking forward to hearing about what you see.

On the seats, it looks to me like a different material was used to recover the front seats, and if I am right about this the color differential is due to the difference in how the dye works on different materials.

 

[jmackro]

Problem with BAT is you cannot inspect the car unless you are lucky enough to live near it. You would have to pay for the inspection and then hope you win the bid. Seems a bit risky to me.

Well, that's true of most classified ads. At least since the days of searching for cars in the classified ads in your local Sunday newspaper (remember newspapers?). Hey, you might pay for a PPI and then hope that you DON'T win the auction! At the end of the day, the cost of the PPI is probably << the cost of fixing things that don't show in the BaT photos.

I could see the benefit of another AFR gauge under the hood when initially tuning carbs, but not as a substitute for one in the car. And if I were doing underhood gauges, I would do fuel pressure.

As the guy who started the snarky comments about the underhood gauges, I'm feeling a bit guilty; I've certainly put some odd add-ons in my cars, especially in my younger days. I can see how it would be useful to monitor AFR and fuel pressure while working on the engine. And I agree that the underhood gauges on the BaT car are a minor issue - easily removable if they bother the next owner. But somehow, they just stuck me as funny!