74 Restomod

WALTER

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I’ve got a 1974 3.0 CS that I will be fixing up over the next few months. My plan is to install following:
M30B35
headers
Weber 38/38’s
Megajolt ECU (Ford edis, GM coilpacks)
Alu radiator w/ electric fan

While I’m at it, I will have the the following done by Axiom Restoration in Virginia Beach:
Engine bay repaint
Under carriage paint
Battery relocated to under rear seat
Rewiring the car with Coach Control wiring
Stainless exhaust

I initially told Kyle at Axiom that I was considering going to manual steering and he said why not R&P. I said that not many have done it without a lot of fab which is not in the budget, but he managed to convince me that he could do it with the existing subframe and using non-BMW parts. I’m skeptical, but at the price he quoted, I decided to give it a shot.

I’m also going to try re-dyeing my leather seats and door panels. Because I don’t have the budget to repaint yet, I am thinking about a vinyl wrap. Don’t lambaste me yet, it’s not a done deal, and even if I do, I will keep it conservative.

For now, here are some pics of what I am starting with. I think it is fairly dry/little rust. I took a scope and peeked into the box under the A pillar; everything looked good, will treat that area with cavity wax and say my prayers. Another bonus was that the undercoating really did it’s job. Not sure if this was factory stuff, but you can see that where it had rubbed off were the only places where any rust is evident. I am going get the entire the underside blasted and epoxy coated with in the factory color (Polaris).
 

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WALTER

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Undercarriage
 

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WALTER

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Wheel wells
 

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WALTER

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Rear undercarriage.
 

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JFENG

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What up with the driver side front stub rail? Has it been hit in the driver front corner? If yes, get it straightened up now. Looks very good on rust (lack of).
 

Rek

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A good practical approach. Dying the leather can have a good effect on my experience with other cars. As for wrapping, why not? You might find it more expensive in labour as our cars have more nooks crannies and fixings than modern equivalents.
 

WALTER

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What up with the driver side front stub rail? Has it been hit in the driver front corner? If yes, get it straightened up now. Looks very good on rust (lack of).

Hmm. Sharp eye. I did not notice this before, but will have it investigated. Thanks!
 

WALTER

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Why spend time and money plus risk creating a safety issue changing the steering system?

I have always felt the steering in our cars was a let down. For a smaller car (I know it’s pretty hefty), the steering was not sharp enough for me even when the entire suspension is dialed in and with fresh components. So I was planning on going the route of trying a manual steering box (I’m still young enough to muscle it at low speeds) in order to get the feel I want.
Kyle at Axiom convinced me that he could do this safely, affordably, and relatively simply by not trying to fit a BMW rack to do the job. I had him reference the threads of others on this forum who have installed steering racks and all the effort it took. He seemed unfazed; claims he has done it many times and been successful with the modification (has not tried this with a coupe). I told him to promise me that if he gets to a point where it becomes too complicated to not get bogged down. Right now, the price he quoted me for this modification is significantly less than the cost of a nice CSL manual steering box, so I am going to let him try.
 

WALTER

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A good practical approach. Dying the leather can have a good effect on my experience with other cars. As for wrapping, why not? You might find it more expensive in labour as our cars have more nooks crannies and fixings than modern equivalents.

Yes, I was surprised at the quotes for a wrap. I haven’t had mine quoted yet, but my research says the average “color change wrap” in the States is $2k-$4k. I may give it a go myself to save some $$$. Still not convinced I will do it, but will wander down to a couple of vinyl wrapping shops to see the materials and the work.
 

Markos

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Hmm. Sharp eye. I did not notice this before, but will have it investigated. Thanks!

It will be interesting to see what happens with the nose. It looks like the rail needs to come mostly downward.

I pulled my jeep straight after it was totaled.. I said, so what you can for $500. When they were done, the back doors were smooth again and I only had small residual kinks in the uniframe. I didnt get any cracking or flaking on the paint.
 

WALTER

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It will be interesting to see what happens with the nose. It looks like the rail needs to come mostly downward.

I pulled my jeep straight after it was totaled.. I said, so what you can for $500. When they were done, the back doors were smooth again and I only had small residual kinks in the uniframe. I didnt get any cracking or flaking on the paint.

I hope it’s not too badly damaged. I dodged a bullet with rust I think, but this one may bite me in the wallet.
 

WALTER

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This is a what should I do ‘while I’m in there’ question. As I mentioned, I am installing a refreshed engine, new carbs, etc. but was wondering what the collective wisdom is for bang for the buck improvements or things that should be renewed/replaced while I have everything out. 5spd conversion and Limit slip diff are off the table right now. Your collective wisdom and feedback is appreciated.
 

JFENG

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Steering: did you check out the steering modifications BelgiumBarry has done. Very cool stuff and should give you more ‘nimble’ steering. I’m not sure going to a non-assist steering box would make the steering feel sharper. You could also try low profile tires and one degree additional toe-out.
 

eriknetherlands

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Nice car and most important (expensive to fix) it looks like it has a solid structure.

Two notorius point are the rear subframe mounting points under the corners of the rear seats, specifically the underside of it.
Are they like the rest of the car? Then it is a very well conserved ecxample.

Take care about how you lift the car. I see in the pics that the rear is lifted at the pickup points, but including the flange of the decorative trim (screw on-screw off) on the sill.
The flange of the trim is just a thin section and can' t handle the forces, in your pics i notice that the seams are already pinched ( perhaps by a previoys owner already).

Erik.

Verstuurd vanaf mijn SM-A520F met Tapatalk
 

Keshav

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Hi Walter,
As Erik points out, WE shouldn't put stress on the lifting points, specially for a longer period of time. Causes more damage than necessary. An easy Test is to put the car on a 4 point lift and then see how well the doors close. Weak rockers will make the door closing difficult, shows how flimsy the structure gets with rot in the rockers.
And yes, looks like a pretty solid car..... pics show how I’ve been ‘taught’ to lift without risk

Keshav
 

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WALTER

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Hi Walter,
As Erik points out, WE shouldn't put stress on the lifting points, specially for a longer period of time. Causes more damage than necessary. An easy Test is to put the car on a 4 point lift and then see how well the doors close. Weak rockers will make the door closing difficult, shows how flimsy the structure gets with rot in the rockers.
And yes, looks like a pretty solid car..... pics show how I’ve been ‘taught’ to lift without risk

Keshav

Keshav, Erik,

Thanks for the tips. I will address this with the shop. I guess I was too busy inspecting the underside for rust that I missed the improper lifting! Looking for rust underneath the car is a bit like exploring a cave, dark and scary, and you hope no monsters (rust) bite you on the a$$.
 

WALTER

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Car is just about completely torn down now. There are no rust through holes, but some rust which I am hoping is just on the surface. My plan is to have it blasted epoxyied and coated with a sound and heat inhibitor (lizard skin).
 

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Interior cont’d
 

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