b35 Install Tomorrow

HB Chris

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My original thread got pretty long so I am starting a new one here. After taking my time to prepare for the engine install (I removed the old motor four months ago!), I am finally ready. Mike, OCCoupe, is assisting me tomorrow and it's going in the way it came out, over the fender. Don has been invaluable in guiding me and answering innumerable questions.

I painted inside the front valance, installed new condenser and fan, stripped out unneeded wires in radiator panel area, opened up the harness near brake booster to splice into the ECU harness, cleaned frame rails, installed new lower firewall pads (pretty cheesy item from BMW), cleaned brake lines, retaped harness, etc. I will post pics after we get it in but I thought some might like to see the monster torque wrench and crank tool we will use once motor is installed.
 

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Sven

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A great milestone Chris. Have fun.

I noticed in the photo that you have the vertical rod from the throttle body attached to the carburetor ball (marked "V" Vergasser on the plate that rotates at the motor mount). I thought that in this position the rod would rub on the intake stub manifold. I moved mine to the "E" Elektronish position and used a longer rod.
 

HB Chris

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Sven,

Good eye! I bent the vertical rod a tad and shortened it 1 3/8", it was from the original automatic linkage. I didn't realize what V and E meant. In the E position it rubs very badly and my rod was too short as well. Did you notice I moved the other ball at Don's suggestion? Gives a bit more leverage I think.

Driving is still a ways off, I need to add the fuel return pipe and mount the ECU, and reinstall the heater and A/C bits, not looking forward to that one!
 

Sven

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Chris, I did not notice the other hole until you pointed it out. I went back and looked at a photo of my set up (see below). This has got me thinking. If you use this other hole that gives the extra leverage (because it is further from the pivot point), then your accel pedal will need to travel further from 0 to WOT. Of course the E point is travel farther too. But then I notice that the V and E are not the same distance from the pivot point either. So I am wondering if the farther hole from the pivot point should be used with the E and the closer one with the V? They may balance each other out. In which case both of our installs may be not quite what the original engineers had in mind. ;) I suppose as long as we can move the butterfly from closed to fully open we should be fine.

How are Don's geometry skills?
 

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Stevehose

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fwiw my carb'd linkage uses the V hole on top and the closer to the pivot (left) hole for the pedal linkage.
 

m5bb

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Good luck Chris.

It's always a good day when the motor is going back in.
I have a torque wrench just like that. :lol: eBay.
 

tmason

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Looking forward to seeing that Beauty installed!
PS nice picture of you as well.
 

Nicad

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Hope to see a shot of two patches in the asphalt ! (if you are still allowed to do that in CA)

Hell of a weapon you got in your hands.
 

HB Chris

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Is it in yet???
LOL, Mike helped me do this, took about an hour of careful maneuvering this morning. I dropped the passenger side of the coupe, hoisted it off the engine stand and very carefully moved it into position. Chain between lifting points was too short so I removed water divider and plenum with runners. Used the 2x4 to keep front lifting point from bending, actually helped to hold it in position. As we lowered it we pushed it forward to clear firewall and hood pads, got it within 3 inches of mounts then had to lift car three inches and bingo, it was resting on the mounts the first try.

Wayne, us old guys can still do our own mechanic's work when we want to!

Linkages: I only trust Don before he has had his first drink of wine. I think results will be similar, upper ball near pedal eases it a bit. My carb rod was way too short, I modified an automatic rod and only needed a very gentle bend to clear stub manifolds. Longer wouldn't have worked for me for some reason. Steve, mine was like yours before. I also have an L shaped crank but didn't use it. Probably two months away from a test drive.

In the last photo is my next project along with swapping the sway bar. Sti
 

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Ohmess

I wanna DRIVE!
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Damn, that must have generated some serious endorphins. I got a jolt just looking at the pictures.
 

tmason

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One great step for the rest of us with a 3.5 in the garage on an engine stand.

Ok now I need a rebuildable 3.5 on an engine stand for a later project.

Chris please keep the photos coming. What a beautiful car!
 

m5bb

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Looks great Chris.
I can't believe you put the motor back with the hood on?
This is the first car I've owned with a backward hood.:lol:
I'm to old school and took the hood off and left it off till I got my motor
back in place.
Now getting the hood back on was no easy task but I did find a crack in the pipe with the spring rods in it and had that welded while the hood was off.

Great job.

Gary
 

HB Chris

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Yep, hood in place. Don told me to remove flywheel, it's the only advice from him I ignored! It's tight for sure but with Mike holding motor steady and a thin piece of plywood protecting firewall, I lowered it very slowly and Mike kept pressure on back of motor to push it forward without hitting hood foam.
 
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