Not lowered yet, but planning on it. Just don't see many mentions of this sort of set in use on a coupe, so trying to avoid issues.
If you want to avoid issues stick with a 7” ET11 up front. There is a lot of wiggle room in the rear. You could do a 9.5” wheel if you were so inclined. I believe that
@BarryG has 10” rear wheels, with negative rear camber and some poke.
It is tough to fit a 16x8” wheel up front and not rub. You are better off keeping the wheel closer towards the strut and adding an aluminum spacer to clear it. An 8” ET11 wheel is the same as a 7” ET11 wheel with .5” more aluminum on each side. The CSL ran 14x7 ET11 with no fender rolling and no rubbing. In theory, a tire on a 16x7” ET11 should not rub the fender, but some folks like
@adawil2002 and a few others have experienced issues. Rolling the fenders cures this. That gains you .5” of tire clearance. That happens to be exactly the difference between a 16x7 ET11 and a 16x8 ET11. So now you have an 8” wheel very close to the fender.
You can play with your lip and barrel sizes. Used barrels and new lips (or polished used). Keep in mind that new parts come in .5” increments. Original BBS lips and barrels were more precise, and the lug pad had varying thicknesses depending on the face.
I’m running a 17x8 ET20 with a 3mm spacer to clear the strut. The strut is further away from the wheel on a 17” due to the installation angle. The spacer makes the fender side equivalent to an ET17. The wheel is very close to the unrolled fender. I think that .5” of clearance via fender rolling is a tad optimistic.
Take a look at your wheels. Note the width and offset. Check your strut spacing. Check your fender
clearance. You can get a good indication of proper fitment then research that size from there.
Take a look here:
http://bbsrs.net/all/
You're too kind. Verona cars have to be photographed in the shade or else the glare is blinding 