Body side molding

Dick Steinkamp

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When my car was prepped for paint, the previous owner had the shop weld up the holes for the body line stainless molding. :( . I want to redrill these holes. Can someone tell me the size of these holes please?

Also, I need to remove the rubber backing of these stainless strips in order to remove some dings in the stainless. How to do?

Lastly, how are the threaded studs removed from the molding? I assume once the rubber backing and associated rubber ends are removed that the studs slide out the end?

Thanks!
 

Keshav

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I want to redrill these holes. Can someone tell me the size of these holes pleas
Do you have the correct studs for the molding? If you do you can figure out the size of the holes.

Also, I need to remove the rubber backing of these stainless strips in order to remove some dings in the stainless. How to do
The moldings don’t have rubber backing AFIK which is why you have to be extremely careful in tightening them onto fresh paint.
And yes, the studs (ideally) slide out if not corroded.
A few pics showing the holes and the last one which is different in size and shape......

30A91614-3F14-446F-87E1-A86A7B5D3806.jpeg
A85E18A9-78B4-42FD-8E49-B2D3959E6051.jpeg
EA2DB001-A4BF-4BB5-A8AB-1AA49ACED700.jpeg
 

Ajay

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Another tip...after the belt line molding is redone, polished, anodized, etc. Run a small line of pin stripe on the inside of the aluminum trim top and bottom. The edges of the belt line trim are sharp and will scratch fresh paint if not correctly handled...I did this on my set with good results.
 

HB Chris

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Another tip...after the belt line molding is redone, polished, anodized, etc. Run a small line of pin stripe on the inside of the aluminum trim top and bottom. The edges of the belt line trim are sharp and will scratch fresh paint if not correctly handled...I did this on my set with good results.
And even better, don’t install for three months and don’t over tighten. For an e9 of course.
 

Gransin

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There shouldn't be any rubber backing, but Carl Nelson should have the plastic spacers that go between the beltline trim and the paint, those will avoid any paint damage and the trim can be installed a couple of days after painting if necessary.
 

Dick Steinkamp

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Thanks, but the E3 molding is definitely different than the E9. It has a rubber backing that wraps around the stainless...

IMG_3522.jpeg


IMG_3523.jpeg


The attachment hardware is also different. Here's the nuts on mine...

IMG_3526.jpeg


I can make the holes in the body slightly oversize of the studs so that I can get some vertical adjustment if needed.

Still looking for a way to remove the rubber backing so that I can have the stainless straightened where dinged, and a way to remove the studs.
 

Mot27cars

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Thanks, but the E3 molding is definitely different than the E9. It has a rubber backing that wraps around the stainless...

View attachment 80319

View attachment 80320

The attachment hardware is also different. Here's the nuts on mine...

View attachment 80321

I can make the holes in the body slightly oversize of the studs so that I can get some vertical adjustment if needed.

Still looking for a way to remove the rubber backing so that I can have the stainless straightened where dinged, and a way to remove the studs.
I’m not so sure the back comes off. At least on mine I’m looking at. Didn’t really pull or pry too much as I didn’t want to damage it even more.
Maybe someone else will chime in.
 

bavbob

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Those plastic nuts are only on the ends of the belt trim where you can access them. Others are plastic clips that have a stud you push through so it expands and locks into the sheet metal. If you use these, be careful cause pushing them in can distort the sheet metal. Also put an o ring around each clip between the clip and the car, this will seal the hole but also pushes the clip out enough to catch the molding. Without it, the molding will snap in and then pop right back off the clip.
 

Dick Steinkamp

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All my studs are threaded. All have the same plastic nuts. I can get to all the nuts on all 8 trim pieces. You do have to remove the 4 door panels and the sides of the trunk lining to do it. Did the E3s change over the years? Mine is a 72 Bavaria.

IMG_3529.jpeg


IMG_3530.jpeg
 
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Mot27cars

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All my studs are threaded. All have the same plastic nuts. I can get to all the nuts on all 6 trim pieces. You do have to remove the 4 door panels and the sides of the trunk lining to do it. Did the E3s change over the years? Mine is a 72 Bavaria.

View attachment 80444

View attachment 80445
After bolts undone I was able to pop mine off of the plastic clips.
Wasn’t worried about paint damage as I was preparing for body work and paint.
Then after removing was able to punch the center pin of the clips and remove door panels to retrieve the pins for possible re-use.
 

Dick Steinkamp

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I'll bet there was a running change to attach the trim to the way described by Bavbob and Mot27cars from the way mine is attached. Mine is a July 1971 car. The change would make the assembly process faster.

Thanks, guys!
 

HB Chris

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The parts book shows all e3 use the 32 plastic clips and 7 threaded posts on trunk trim. However, it also shows that 2500 and 2800 and euro S and Si used 14 of the threaded posts on side belt trim.

The side trim itself is identical for all models.
 

Mot27cars

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Mine is a 72 Bav also.
HB Chris how many bolts does it say?
I do not have trunk trim and I have a total of 52 holes for trim mounting.
Thanks again Tom
 

bavbob

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Mine is a 72 as well. Mixture bolts and clips. BTW, it was punching in/out those center part of the plastic clips that created little indentations in my sheet metal. Just an FYI.
 
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