Coupe Restoration

[vanak60]

Hello Everyone, I am a semi new member, I bought the coupe back in March, and I wish I had found this site before I did purchase to look for the famous rust spots. I moved the coupe to the garage finally to start restoring it. Some of the rust spots are pretty brutal and I wanted to get your opinion as to what my next step should be. I know a body shop that can probably cut the rust out and sand blast. I put couple of pictures to show everyone what I'm talking about. My driverside Rocker panel is pretty decent shape. It's the driver side that looks pretty bad. Also the Wheel Wells on my passenger side, but the driver side is ok.

Thanks,

Alex

IMG]http://i264.photobucket.com/albums/ii192/vanak60/Picture012.jpg[/IMG]

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[x_atlas0]

Ouch! The tin worm really took a bite out of that one. I think it will take a touch more than just sandblasting that.

On the plus side, now would be a good time to learn how to weld.

The rest of the car looks all right. How are the floors, shock towers, and spare well?

 

[chicane]

The rust looks like pretty standard stuff. What state did you purchase the car, it looks familiar?

 

[x_atlas0]

The rust looks like pretty standard stuff. What state did you purchase the car, it looks familiar?

I think I remember seeing this coupe on Ebay some time ago.

 

[vanak60]

The Shock Towers and the floor is in good condition, The Fenders on the passenger side and some what the driverside have rusted out.

The Car is Euro Edition, I bought it from a guy who just moved here from Washington State. I bought the car off of craisglist last spring, I looked at the history of the car, the car was transfered from Germany to Vancouver, BC and then was sold to previous owner in WA.

 

[Malc]

Well that looks like fun, been there.... taken the pictures.
If you don't feel like tacking the welding and stuff, but want to save some money I would suggest you strip the car down to a rolling shell. This will uncover any other nasties and means that the bodyshop doesn't have to do it themselves
Also make sure they only do one side at a time, the sill sections are structural and if both sides are cut off the car could fold up
Replacement panels are available from BMW and other sources and worth the money, pattern parts (copies) can be a bit hit and miss as I have discovered.
The only bits that I think you will have to fabricate from scratch are the A-pillar footings.
Good luck and if you need any help let use know
Cheers
Malc

 

[vanak60]

oh boy

Malc,

I listened to your suggestion and stripped the interior, and well let's just say the floor needs to be replaced, driver side is the only section that is in good condition. Over all I've noticed the passenger side of the car has way more rust than the driver side.

Now, I'm thinking about taking the dash out, and next would the engine. Any suggestions from experts would be highly appreciated.

Thanks,

Alex

 

[chicane]

Can you post some more pics as you uncover the new problems?

 

[vanak60]

Pics

I took pictures of what I've done so far. Also as you can see I've stripped the interior and the trunk. I had a gas leak which I didn't know where it originated from, I found out that source (Carb Gaskets). Spoke to a guy who can take the engine out and put it back for $500, is that a good price?

Trunk fortunately only has surface rust

The floor pans are all in pretty bad shape and I suspect need to be replaced.

Front Passenger as you can also is pretty rough

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[chicane]

Looks like pretty typical rust for a car that was kept outside. What about under the hood, any rust?

 

[gazzol]

With regards to the engine removal, I don't know about American labour rates but considering that what costs £10.00 in the UK cost $10.00 in the US I would say that $500 is a bit much for what ammounts to a days work (4 hours to take out and 4 to put back).
Have you done any restoration/automotive repair work before? If not and you plan to do this your self may I suggest that you go on some sort of night school course to learn about welding and sheet metal work etc, it would stand you in good stead. There is a heck of a lot of work in that car but it is worth saving and with the right skills there is no reason why you can't do most of it your self.

 

[Mike Pelly]

floor pans

here's some photos of pans in various shape. If you need replacement pans let me know:
http://s248.photobucket.com/albums/gg169/bmwe9coupe/floor pans/

 

[chicane]

With regards to the engine removal, I don't know about American labour rates but considering that what costs £10.00 in the UK cost $10.00 in the US I would say that $500 is a bit much for what ammounts to a days work (4 hours to take out and 4 to put back).
Have you done any restoration/automotive repair work before? If not and you plan to do this your self may I suggest that you go on some sort of night school course to learn about welding and sheet metal work etc, it would stand you in good stead. There is a heck of a lot of work in that car but it is worth saving and with the right skills there is no reason why you can't do most of it your self.

I guess you haven't seen the current exchange rates. £10.00 is about $19.55 USD. Almost twice as many dollars.

 

[30csl]

I'm sure Gazzol is pretty aware of the current USD weakness. I think the point he is making is about the purchasing power of each currency in their respective homes.

 

[Mario L.]

I know this will piss off a few folks who have done this level of repair, and I value the CS Coupe . . and I have done them as well
but as this chassis is not a CSL and at this level of rust I suggest using this car as a donor . .
sadly there have been rust free chassis cut up for parts on this forum.
IMO even done for yourself with no expenses for labor this project is HUGE . .and parts and materials are not expenses to be ignored.

 

[chicane]

I know this will piss off a few folks who have done this level of repair, and I value the CS Coupe . . and I have done them as well
but as this chassis is not a CSL and at this level of rust I suggest using this car as a donor . .
sadly there have been rust free chassis cut up for parts on this forum.
IMO even done for yourself with no expenses for labor this project is HUGE . .and parts and materials are not expenses to be ignored.

1. Welder borrowed from your brother in law (check)
2. Air grinder (check)
3. Scrap pieces of sheet metal for patch panels (check)
4. POR 15 (check)

This project is very doable and if done by the owner not all that expensive (relatively).

 

[vanak60]

The pictures of the car look much worse than it actually is, the trunk has only surface rust, besides the floor panels/rocker panels and some engine rust, I believe I can restore the car without having to spend lots of money. I appreciate and will leverage this user forum as I run into difficult tasks. I'm looking to do most of the work myself except removing the engine. These cars are becoming harder to find by the day and I just don't see justice as to looking to part out such a car.

 

[jmackro]

I concurr with Mario (and Carl Nelson). What Carl is saying isn't that the car CAN'T be fixed - he's saying that it'll take more to fix it than the cost of unloading this one and buying a better one. Looking at the photos of the floors and trunk, as well as the first pictures you posted of the rocker area, yea, it's pretty far gone.

Because these cars are unibody, the panel replacement process isn't simple - you don't just cut out the old and weld in the new. These cars were built by sandwiching multiple pieces of sheetmetal together - it is difficult to get the bad pieces out, the new ones in, and maintain alignment. Again, not that it's impossible, but it should be done by a pro (even a "professional" body shop that primarily works on new cars / collision repair, probably isn't competent to fix a rusty coupe)

Don't hold me liable if you do what I'm about to suggest, and hurt yourself, but... Can you just drive the car as is, have that "coupe experience" for a few years, and then replace it with a more sound car? Before going that route, I would strongly recommend having a pro look at your car firsthand (not just at photos over the Internet) to determine whether it's safe to drive - it may not be.

 

[Laldog]

If you're inclined and have some metal skills (welding, grinding, cutting, etc) this could be done without breaking the bank, but I would use a factor of 4 or 5.

The amount of rust you see should be multiplied by 5 when factoring the amount of rust hidden behind the various rocker covers, hidden panels and fender areas.

The amount of time you think it will take to perform a certain operation will usually take about 5 times what you plan for.

The expense of what you're planning will always cost alot more than what you've planned. Maybe not a factor of 5, but always more.

Having said that, if you're not under any deadline, enjoy doing automotive work, and have some skills, this is definitely a very rewarding way to spend your time.

Advances in welding (MIG is EASY), abrasives, (3M has some great stuff)
and paint and prep technologies (POR 15, panel bonding, etc) make things a little more doable.

Finally, you have this website and the contributions of many who have done this stuff before. It is a great resource and a tribute to the very helpful people here. It's almost like having a full time interactive repair manual.

Go for it.

 

[dave v. in nc]

to do, or not to do

I agree with laldog...If you are talented, patient, ambitious, Malc, or wealthy, go for it. If not, spend $27K and buy a nicely, not perfectly, done car and enjoy. Keep this car as an educational tool...Otherwise, I'll bet you a Petri steering wheel that your car will cost twice that done properly (and then some). Ask me how I know. At least I was, and am patient. I do love my coupe like a mistress, but she spent like an ex-wife. Have fun. Dave V. in NC

74 Polaris 3.0cs
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