Door Locks

[Rek]

I need a bit of help here. Can anyone tell me whether the numbers on the moving part of the door locks is a key code?

The attached picture shows where the number is.

The numbers match on both door locks, but the key which works on the ignition and the trunk does not work on one of the locks. I have searched the threads and realise that they gum up, and I have done some elementary cleaning but nothing helps.

I will happily take it apart (and risk an explosion of springs and parts) but wanted to know whether it is the right lock in the first place.

 

[Stefan]

I had the issue with clogged door locks. My way to clean them was to let them soak for hours in white spirit (with and without inserted key) and blow them with compressed air. By doing this several times I managed to have them work properly again without having the locks taken apart in weird tiny pieces.

 

[D-jetronic]

Questions

1-your code looks like a Pebra code, I suppose you have already checked this code on your key ?
2-are you sure mechanism and rods of non working door is Ok ?

Marc

 

[deQuincey]

BO 673 is the code of that keylock and it is also marked in the right key, someone near london is able to make a key out of that number, ask me how i know it...

do not remove the pieces, clean as stefan said, once cleaned if it works ok, remember to dry the internals with a hair dryer to remove humidity and lubricate only with graphite powder

i recall that a original coupe should have one key for the doors and trunk, and another for igintion, but coupes have been usually passing through many hands so you can never tell the story behind a certin car

 

[Stevehose]

The black plastic headed key should open doors, glove box, trunk, and ignition. The all-silver "valet" key should only work on doors and ignition.

i recall that a original coupe should have one key for the doors and trunk, and another for igintion, but coupes have been usually passing through many hands so you can never tell the story behind a certin car

 

[mulberryworks]

Freeing up locks

Both door and trunk locks on my car refused to turn with the key that worked in the ignition. I was worried that the ignition switch had been changed at some point. I removed the passenger side lock and checked the key code on the lock and found it matched the key. I have some synthetic lubricating oil meant for clocks and sewing machines (ebay) and was able to get the lock to turn after quite a bit of in and out with a wet key, jiggling it and cleaning the resulting dirty key a number of times. The same process was successful with the trunk and driver's door locks as well.
Some will say that locks should only be lubed with graphite and generally I agree, but in this case, they were so badly gummed up that adding graphite would have been insufficient. A good quality oil works fine to lube locks, but can attract dirt and will oil your keys a bit and thus your pockets.
I may remove the locks and clean them with an ultrasonic cleaner to get any remaining oil out (or use an electronics degreaser spray- not as good) and then put back graphite, but for now, I'm overjoyed that I've returned them to operation. The lock mechanism in the doors is another matter. This 2800CS has been sitting for a number of years in Hawaii, and the frozen door lock mechanisms will have to be removed and cleaned before they will work smoothly again, but nothing is broken or missing, so it's just a cleaning job.

 

[D-jetronic]

....And the glove box.

Correct Steve..doors, ignition and trunk and on the other hand, the one we call in french "clé de garage" which is the one you give to the mech, when you leave your car at the dealer.
Mine also opens and locks the glove-box (which was an option).
I recall now buying the last set of 4 locks for E9, in BMW Petuelring many years ago.
The guy told me then it was the last set available....


Marc

 

[Honolulu]

Hello... "sitting in Hawaii"? What/whose might that have been? I know there have been several coupes from Hawaii that have been "repatriated" as far as the mainland.

Charlie, in Honolulu

 

[mulberryworks]

About my coupe rescued from Hawaii

I purchased the car on Maui a year ago from a man who had bought it sight unseen from a seller on the Big Island. He was dismayed at the rust it had, which all things considered, it's too bad. The nose was replaced at some point because of an accident, and so it's in great shape. The rockers, front floor and lower doors do need some replacement panels. It also began to run poorly because he let it sit and as he was building a house, he let it sit for three years while trying to decide what to do. He finally posted it for sale, with the ad reading as if it was only good for parts. But in reality, he didn't want to part with it. I had to talk to him multiple times over the course of three months before he relented to sell it. No price had been mentioned yet, but I referenced a sale of another, nonrunning 1970 2800CS on the Big Island the month before and he agreed to that same price, $3000. Now I don't know if that seller was the same as the one my seller got his car from, but it seems like too big a coincidence that there were two of the same color and year in the same small town on that island.
My seller told me after the deal was done that he had paid $6K for the car, and that made his reluctance even more clear. I could tell he was a seller in pain and was always respectful of his wanting to take time in deciding to sell the car. I'm sure the rust wasn't helped by the fact it sat outside for those three years, but at least it was in Kula at 3500 feet, away from the salty air. The poor running turned out to be points bouncing on the rusty distributor shaft and installing the Petronix electronic points got her running again without too much trouble. I've moved to Austin, and took the car with me this February. I'm collecting parts and was about to start work on the rust, but I've fouled my garage workspace by filling it with a Boxster that needs a new rear window and IMS shaft repair. Once that is done, I'll get to the E9 restoration.

 

[Rek]

Thanks for the advice. It looks like the lock is right and the key is right but the lock is jammed.

I'll try the white spirit process and see whether it will work.

If not, I will take it to a locksmith to see if they can help.

 

[Rek]

Its fixed. Because I now knew that the code was correct, I noticed that with the key in it was jammed solid and didn't move a little against the levers like a free lock, so presumed that the shaft was seized.

I little bit of brute force later and I have saved some cash on new locks and keys. Thanks for the help.