once caliper is fixed i fix the flared nut with the wrench
next step, pads
next step, pads
Lan-Front axle, brakes, bearings, wheel hub,...and rear brakes too
- Thread starter deQuincey
- Start date
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ready to fill brake fluid again
same happened to me, but there is no other thread on the topic specific...
so i have to be the first
and finally pour new brake fluid and bleed brakes and clutch,...
Awesome work as usual. Your pictures are worth 1001 words. I wish I had your patience. I rebuilt all 4 calipers on my e9 8 years ago. Not a difficult job provided caliper bores and cylinders are in good condition. I didn’t split calipers. Still seem to be working fine.
I have at least one sticky rear caliper on my e3. I just pulled rear calipers off my parts car to rebuild and install on the e3. Looking forward to it. I’ve always enjoyed rebuilding hydraulic bits with good success. Except for that Triumph Spitfire brake master...
I have at least one sticky rear caliper on my e3. I just pulled rear calipers off my parts car to rebuild and install on the e3. Looking forward to it. I’ve always enjoyed rebuilding hydraulic bits with good success. Except for that Triumph Spitfire brake master...
i do not see. what are you referring to...,
Drew is inquiring into your brake pad separator tool.
It's a tool to increase the distance between the brake pads by pushing back (in) the brake pistons. As the pads are worn, they sit closer together. you can't just slide in the ticker new pads, there is no room for them. When replacing pads, the pistons need to be repositioned to allow inserting thicker new pads.
Now DeQ is very well assorted in the tools department. If your not (like me), a piece of solid oak, simple crowbar or thick screwdriver will do the same. Just remember to push the pistons back using the old brake pads as supporting surface for your screwdriver. Don't push the piston directly. try to push the middle of the pad, directly on top of the piston to avoid skewing the piston.
It's a tool to increase the distance between the brake pads by pushing back (in) the brake pistons. As the pads are worn, they sit closer together. you can't just slide in the ticker new pads, there is no room for them. When replacing pads, the pistons need to be repositioned to allow inserting thicker new pads.
Now DeQ is very well assorted in the tools department. If your not (like me), a piece of solid oak, simple crowbar or thick screwdriver will do the same. Just remember to push the pistons back using the old brake pads as supporting surface for your screwdriver. Don't push the piston directly. try to push the middle of the pad, directly on top of the piston to avoid skewing the piston.
sublime explanation, thanks Erik
DeQ: how did you get the pistons out? Was it difficult?
not difficult but laborious, i used a compressed air source with a rubber ended gun, a piece of wood, oil spray, and patience,
Belgiumbarry
Well-Known Member
i used the hydraulic hand pump from a piston tool.... works great . Had ofcourse to fabricate a adaptor to fit the caliper.
I cut the valve stem off an old bike inner tube, cram it into the caliper, seal the other brake line holes, put a piece of wood thin enough to allow the pistons to extend out but not pop out all the way because if one pops out before the other you will lose pressure. put the stem into the compressed air source like a tire inflator pump (the valve stem will lock in) and keep your fingers out of the caliper, sometimes they pop out quite violently.
