FS: Original round black spark plug wire tube

Bmachine

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I thought I read that this is might be useful for someone looking for originality. If yes, I have no idea what a fair price for this would be... Any idea?

It includes the old wires bc I wasn't sure how to remove those without damaging the tube.

IMG_0097.jpg IMG_0098.jpg IMG_0099.jpg
 

HB Chris

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Just pull them out. To assemble new wires, start from number six and push wires forward then install caps at Dizzy end. Always do the longest one first and uses lots of lube.
 

Frankie123

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Just pull them out. To assemble new wires, start from number six and push wires forward then install caps at Dizzy end. Always do the longest one first and uses lots of lube.

Do the right angle caps on the dizzy end simply pull off on new leads or is there a trick to doing it without damaging them?
 

HB Chris

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They should pull or twist off, I will be replacing mine shortly. You can always try starting from the Dizzy end, it will just take longer and you might need tweezers to grab the leads.
 
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Frankie123

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They should pull orvtwist off, I will be replacing mine shortly. You can always try starting from the Dizzy end, it will just take longer and you might need tweezers to grab the leads.
Will be interested to hear which way proves successful
 

restart

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Well, I am being loquacious expert tonight,
I thought I told me not too Post at happy hour

being from simpler times or simpler minds
when I put new wires on I leave them a couple of inches long and then at tune up time I remove the caps and snip a few millimeters off the wire and re thread, especially with a car of unknown history. You’d be surprised at how much carbon is there. On boxer bikes it’s a regular cause of misfire.
Will be interested to see selling price. That’s a joke by the way. Being hand to mouth to I was never a big fan of posted prices and love my parts too much to sell them for any less than double market. Oh, maybe that’s where the hand to mouth comes from.
Ok, I’m done. I will calm down soon.
So please get those parts prices up in the same increments as car prices. Er, at least when we are on the selling end.
 

Frankie123

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Well, I am being loquacious expert tonight,
I thought I told me not too Post at happy hour

being from simpler times or simpler minds
when I put new wires on I leave them a couple of inches long and then at tune up time I remove the caps and snip a few millimeters off the wire and re thread, especially with a car of unknown history. You’d be surprised at how much carbon is there. On boxer bikes it’s a regular cause of misfire.
Will be interested to see selling price. That’s a joke by the way. Being hand to mouth to I was never a big fan of posted prices and love my parts too much to sell them for any less than double market. Oh, maybe that’s where the hand to mouth comes from.
Ok, I’m done. I will calm down soon.
So please get those parts prices up in the same increments as car prices. Er, at least when we are on the selling end.
Would you be able to elaborate on how you safely remove the caps without damaging the plug wires for an amateur attempting to replace plug leads but reusing the round tube?
 

restart

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Looking at the link I found might be easier than reading my description.:).. My English is not that great. Well it’s great but there is just a lot of it.
The link...
https://brook.reams.me/bmw-motorcyl...project/61-bmw-r755-install-spark-plug-wires/

The words...
I find The spark plug end is the most susceptible to damage because it is usually the end that is pulled on and off and I find it is easier to take off than the coil wire end.
Hold the wire tightly near the spark plug cap and then just twist the spark plug boot counter clockwise. It just threads on and off. Once it’s off look in the end of the boot/plug/boot expose ...there is a threaded ‘spike’ in there.
If you look at the end of the wire you will see where the spike threaded in to the core.
Cutting 5 or 6 millimeters off the end of the wire gives you a nice clean connection to thread the plug boot back onto.

You will probably have to lube the wires before you snake them back into the tube. I use my wife’s most expensive hand cream. Once you wrestle all the wires through the tube don’t forget to put any rubber boots back on before you screw the ‘bakelite’ ends back in. Make sure the threaded spike goes into the wire core. Give it a couple of twists to get it started. The first couple of wires...Once you feel the threads have caught you can twist the cap back off and check your aim. Once you feel comfortable that the spike is in the core just screw the boot into the wire until it bottoms out.

Don’t forget to put any rubber sealing rings or boots on the wire after its in the tube but before you put the Bakelite plug on. Or you will be removing the plug end again.

If you want to remove the clip at the coil end...
I find the coil end a bit more work. You can push the coil end of the wire with clip further through the boot to expose enough of the wire clip so you can pry the tangs open and remove the metal clip. Once you have that off you will be able to pull the wire out of the right angle boot.
HTH.
 
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Frankie123

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Looking at the link I found might be easier than reading my description.:).. My English is not that great. Well it’s great but there is just a lot of it.
The link...
https://brook.reams.me/bmw-motorcyl...project/61-bmw-r755-install-spark-plug-wires/

The words...
I find The spark plug end is the most susceptible to damage because it is usually the end that is pulled on and off and I find it is easier to take off than the coil wire end.
Hold the wire tightly near the spark plug cap and then just twist the spark plug boot counter clockwise. It just threads on and off. Once it’s off look in the end of the boot/plug/boot expose ...there is a threaded ‘spike’ in there.
If you look at the end of the wire you will see where the spike threaded in to the core.
Cutting 5 or 6 millimeters off the end of the wire gives you a nice clean connection to thread the plug boot back onto.

You will probably have to lube the wires before you snake them back into the tube. I use my wife’s most expensive hand cream. Once you wrestle all the wires through the tube don’t forget to put any rubber boots back on before you screw the ‘bakelite’ ends back in. Make sure the threaded spike goes into the wire core. Give it a couple of twists to get it started. The first couple of wires...Once you feel the threads have caught you can twist the cap back off and check your aim. Once you feel comfortable that the spike is in the core just screw the boot into the wire until it bottoms out.

Don’t forget to put any rubber sealing rings or boots on the wire after its in the tube but before you put the Bakelite plug on. Or you will be removing the plug end again.

If you want to remove the clip at the coil end...
I find the coil end a bit more work. You can push the coil end of the wire with clip further through the boot to expose enough of the wire clip so you can pry the tangs open and remove the metal clip. Once you have that off you will be able to pull the wire out of the right angle boot.
HTH.
Much appreciated. Thanks for the detailed write up
 

Stevehose

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For my Kingsbourne wires they come off at the resistor end. As Chris said start from #6 hole and work backwards. If tight you can tape the wire to a coat hanger and pull them through. I don't think the right angle ends come apart as easily if at all. The non-right angle end of the coil wire comes off so you can trim to length.
 

restart

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Frankie, is that you. Car in your profile pick. If so, I feel a bit silly giving you advice on spark plugs here.

On reflection, if you have the extra length on your wires or are fitting new cables. Nothing wrong with freshening both ends. Just have your new ‘screw on spark plug ends’ and ‘strip and crimp right angle coil ends’ ready on the bench.

Snipping off the end of the coil plug wire is about the easiest way I know remove a plug.:eek:

I am not decided on whether I want to add more resistance in the wires to ignition circuit . Pretty sure the resistance extends the life to the points and makes the radio clearer But I use solid state like pertronix or crane etc...whenever possible and do not really play the radio in my old cars. To busy listening for the next thing I need to replace!

I came across a suggestion that you can remove the resistor from resistor plugs.
you may be able to slowly but surely heat the clip on end of the plug until you can twist it out. Then replace the resistor with some solid core copper wire left over from puttin lights in your garage:)ymmv

I looked at a car recently where half the spark plug ire’s were 5k and half were 1k resistance. The actual ‘bakelight’ things looked identical.
Wires come in all sizes so get narrow ones.
 

Frankie123

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Frankie, is that you. Car in your profile pick. If so, I feel a bit silly giving you advice on spark plugs here.

On reflection, if you have the extra length on your wires or are fitting new cables. Nothing wrong with freshening both ends. Just have your new ‘screw on spark plug ends’ and ‘strip and crimp right angle coil ends’ ready on the bench.

Snipping off the end of the coil plug wire is about the easiest way I know remove a plug.:eek:

I am not decided on whether I want to add more resistance in the wires to ignition circuit . Pretty sure the resistance extends the life to the points and makes the radio clearer But I use solid state like pertronix or crane etc...whenever possible and do not really play the radio in my old cars. To busy listening for the next thing I need to replace!

I came across a suggestion that you can remove the resistor from resistor plugs.
you may be able to slowly but surely heat the clip on end of the plug until you can twist it out. Then replace the resistor with some solid core copper wire left over from puttin lights in your garage:)ymmv

I looked at a car recently where half the spark plug ire’s were 5k and half were 1k resistance. The actual ‘bakelight’ things looked identical.
Wires come in all sizes so get narrow ones.
Hi @restart no that’s not mine. Just like the picture. Mine is a csi which I recently acquired and I’m a novice when it comes to things mechanical but am ready to learn, hence the many questions before plunging in :)

Thanks for the recommendations
 
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