Gas hood struts

jefflit

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I doubt there will be much interest in this, given that there isn't really any reason to deviate from the stock torsion bar setup for most owners but I'll post just in case since the end result is very clean and cheap.

I couldn't use the torsion bar because it would interfere with my EV conversion battery box. The solution uses two 17" 40 pound gas struts. Part number 4138T78 at McMaster Carr https://www.mcmaster.com/catalog/128/1399 and some custom brackets. Price $25.54 each

The front brackets bolt to the hood using the stock torsion bar mounting locations. In the back, you need to have a tab attached (welded) to the inner fender apron. I designed the brackets and tabs in Fusion 360 and had them cut by sendcutsend.com. I used 0.25" thick 6061 aluminum for the front and 0.188" thick HRPO mild steel for the tabs. Cost for cutting two brackets and 4 tabs (two extra just in case) just barely met their minimum order size of $29. I can't say enough good things about sendcutsend. They are very responsive, have quick turn around (it took 5 days for my parts to arrive), and their work is great. Having a service like theirs really opens up new possibilities.

You can have sendcutsend thread the M8 holes also but I did it myself since it isn't difficult. After that, just thread the strut ends in, bolt the front bracket to the hood, and see where the tab naturally meets the fender apron. Mark and weld. Obviously, if you have the sound deadening material in place you'll have to either remove it or open up a hole around the tab location. the struts do not interfere with any items under the hood. I removed the stock hood brace brackets from the apron but that's only because my car is already so modified it hardly matters if I "ruin" it a bit more.

The motion path of the bracket acts to hold the hood in the closed position and then rotates around at a few inches up, and assists in opening and holding the hood up. My hood is steel and the force is perfect -- no risk of bending the hood. If you have an aluminum hood you should probably use the 20 pound struts instead. Or just use your CSL stick and ignore all this.

If you're interested, just PM me and I'll send the DXF drawing files.
 

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tygaboy

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Excellent! I think that looks great. I just had the engine bay painted else I'd consider this very kit. Great work and thanks so much for sharing!
 

Candia4441

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I doubt there will be much interest in this, given that there isn't really any reason to deviate from the stock torsion bar setup for most owners but I'll post just in case since the end result is very clean and cheap.

I couldn't use the torsion bar because it would interfere with my EV conversion battery box. The solution uses two 17" 40 pound gas struts. Part number 4138T78 at McMaster Carr https://www.mcmaster.com/catalog/128/1399 and some custom brackets. Price $25.54 each

The front brackets bolt to the hood using the stock torsion bar mounting locations. In the back, you need to have a tab attached (welded) to the inner fender apron. I designed the brackets and tabs in Fusion 360 and had them cut by sendcutsend.com. I used 0.25" thick 6061 aluminum for the front and 0.188" thick HRPO mild steel for the tabs. Cost for cutting two brackets and 4 tabs (two extra just in case) just barely met their minimum order size of $29. I can't say enough good things about sendcutsend. They are very responsive, have quick turn around (it took 5 days for my parts to arrive), and their work is great. Having a service like theirs really opens up new possibilities.

You can have sendcutsend thread the M8 holes also but I did it myself since it isn't difficult. After that, just thread the strut ends in, bolt the front bracket to the hood, and see where the tab naturally meets the fender apron. Mark and weld. Obviously, if you have the sound deadening material in place you'll have to either remove it or open up a hole around the tab location. the struts do not interfere with any items under the hood. I removed the stock hood brace brackets from the apron but that's only because my car is already so modified it hardly matters if I "ruin" it a bit more.

The motion path of the bracket acts to hold the hood in the closed position and then rotates around at a few inches up, and assists in opening and holding the hood up. My hood is steel and the force is perfect -- no risk of bending the hood. If you have an aluminum hood you should probably use the 20 pound struts instead. Or just use your CSL stick and ignore all this.

If you're interested, just PM me and I'll send the DXF drawing files.
Hello, I think you are the life saver my car stock bar that holds the hood up it is not working and I was using wood to hold the hood up lately I buy a 18 inch gas shock but nothing close what you did I really love what you did I would like to buy the extra one you have please email me at ( [email protected] ) please
 

Candia4441

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Why did you not use the CSL approach?
Hello, the hood is not a aluminum and it is heavy and thats blocking you to work on the engine properly and hood is not a all the way up it is kind of like half way.
 

Candia4441

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Files sent via email @Candia4441
Hello, and thank you so much I got the files, that is perfect I am really appreciate that you share this files with me I am in fire protection field and using a Auto Cad for design and I could use the files that you send.
 

cs1971

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I doubt there will be much interest in this, given that there isn't really any reason to deviate from the stock torsion bar setup for most owners but I'll post just in case since the end result is very clean and cheap.

I couldn't use the torsion bar because it would interfere with my EV conversion battery box. The solution uses two 17" 40 pound gas struts. Part number 4138T78 at McMaster Carr https://www.mcmaster.com/catalog/128/1399 and some custom brackets. Price $25.54 each

The front brackets bolt to the hood using the stock torsion bar mounting locations. In the back, you need to have a tab attached (welded) to the inner fender apron. I designed the brackets and tabs in Fusion 360 and had them cut by sendcutsend.com. I used 0.25" thick 6061 aluminum for the front and 0.188" thick HRPO mild steel for the tabs. Cost for cutting two brackets and 4 tabs (two extra just in case) just barely met their minimum order size of $29. I can't say enough good things about sendcutsend. They are very responsive, have quick turn around (it took 5 days for my parts to arrive), and their work is great. Having a service like theirs really opens up new possibilities.

You can have sendcutsend thread the M8 holes also but I did it myself since it isn't difficult. After that, just thread the strut ends in, bolt the front bracket to the hood, and see where the tab naturally meets the fender apron. Mark and weld. Obviously, if you have the sound deadening material in place you'll have to either remove it or open up a hole around the tab location. the struts do not interfere with any items under the hood. I removed the stock hood brace brackets from the apron but that's only because my car is already so modified it hardly matters if I "ruin" it a bit more.

The motion path of the bracket acts to hold the hood in the closed position and then rotates around at a few inches up, and assists in opening and holding the hood up. My hood is steel and the force is perfect -- no risk of bending the hood. If you have an aluminum hood you should probably use the 20 pound struts instead. Or just use your CSL stick and ignore all this.

If you're interested, just PM me and I'll send the DXF drawing files.
Jefflit,
I love the craftsmanship. I would like to get a copy of the file so I can get rid of my broom stick holding my hood up, LOL. Thanks in Advance
 

nosmonkey

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I went similar direction Jeff, but different method. Nutserts into the stock torsion bar mount and then struts mounted onto the bulkhead. Some fine tweaking needed, as the bonnet opens about 90% of the way, hoping some slightly longer rod ends solve that issue. I used some 15" struts but this wouldn't work for anyone with stock battery tray as when shut the strut would interfere.
 

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jefflit

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I got a few more requests for the drawing files and a question about what to do with them. Rather than send a bunch of emails, I'll post here. I can't attach them directly to the forum because it limits file types but here is a link to the dxf drawing files for anyone who wants them: https://drive.google.com/file/d/15LaJxisPhcDjt69_OWSII5WAylW1qgoV/view?usp=sharing Vielen, hier sind die Dateien. If anyone has trouble with the link just let me know.

The files are in standard Drawing Exchange Format (DXF) 2D drawing format. I created the originals in Fusion 360 but they are so simple I don't see any point in attaching a proprietary CAD format. The dimensions are in the original post so if you're good enough to know what to do with a CAD file then you'll have no problem recreating the sketches from the dimensions.

There also seems to be some confusion between my brackets and @nosmonkey 's approach. If you use my brackets there is no problem clearing the battery. Also, I will say that you cannot use a strut on just one side. We tried this on the silver CSE because we ended up putting the Tesla AC compressor in a location that interfered on one side. With only only one strut, the weight of the hood pulls down down diagonally and causes the somewhat weak hood mounts to flex, allowing the lower corner of the hood on the supported side to lean forward, causing potential interference with the front nose panel. A stronger strut (we tried that too) does not help. Use two struts so that both sides are supported.

As for what to do with the files, any shop that does laser cutting will know how to use DXF files. Personally, I use sendcutsend.com because their site is easy to use, the prices are reasonable, and they've always been very responsive and fast. It cost less than $30 to get two of the large brackets and four of the small tabs cut, drilled and sent to my doorstep (I did my own tapping but they can do that too if you want). I ordered 4 tabs to get the order above their $28 minimum and just in case I buggered one up welding, although that didn't happen. It should be obvious how to create an order on the sendcutsend site (upload the drawings, pick your material, etc) but if anyone needs help you can reach out. I've included a screenshot of my order below.

Screen Shot 2022-10-11 at 9.58.03 AM.png
 
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