Help CSL Injectors are leaking

James Poulter

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Help, injectors are leaking on my CSL, Anyone know where they can be recondition or do they need to be new and if so where is best to get them? leaking where the Flexi hose goes into the body.
 

adawil2002

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Had an injector leak on my CSi a few months ago, bought a new gasket and replaced the crimp clamp. Also replaced 8 feet of fuel line to repair a fuel leak.
 

Simufly

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Have the same problem. Just about to replace the flexi bits on the injectors will report back with progress.
 

Tyler

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Make sure to use the proper crimp-style hose clamps for the hose to injector body connection if you are rebuilding. These require a special crimp tool. In my experience, all the other types of clamps will leak. Easiest and most expensive option is to get new injectors from W&N.
 

lloyd

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Help, injectors are leaking on my CSL, Anyone know where they can be recondition or do they need to be new and if so where is best to get them? leaking where the Flexi hose goes into the body.


Commonly available kits, or make your own, using appropriately rated fuel injection hose.

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Simufly

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Commonly available kits, or make your own, using appropriately rated fuel injection hose.

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The kits are all very well if you have access to the appropriate swaging tool. I cut the old swage off and used another clamp on the bottom of the new piece of ethanol resistant rubber pipe. No probs so far!
 

lloyd

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The kits are all very well if you have access to the appropriate swaging tool. I cut the old swage off and used another clamp on the bottom of the new piece of ethanol resistant rubber pipe. No probs so far!

The hose/pipe needs not only to be ethanol resistant, but capable of withstanding significant pressure. Hose rated specifically for fuel injection is highly recommended.

IIRC, commonly available hand tools can accomplish task, e.g., diagonal cutters, common utility knife, dremel cutoff wheel. but even a sharp kitchen knife and a pair of pliers would work in a pinch. Removing injectors often reveals another problem, the hardened rubber o-ring/seal that cradles the bottom portion of the injector. If that rubber is perished, cracked or no longer semi-flexible, vacuum leaks may result, in turn, providing for strange whistles and misfiring cylinders.


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James Poulter

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I don't want to trust fuel clips due to the system running at 2 Bar, don't fancy loosing the car in a fire. Am trying to find what tool will do the crimping correctly or will try a local hydraulic hose specialist in the uk like Pirtek. If anyone knows of the correct tool that would be a great help, I will update this post when I have it done.
 

Simufly

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I don't want to trust fuel clips due to the system running at 2 Bar, don't fancy loosing the car in a fire. Am trying to find what tool will do the crimping correctly or will try a local hydraulic hose specialist in the uk like Pirtek. If anyone knows of the correct tool that would be a great help, I will update this post when I have it done.
All the other connections in the system are secured by clamps so why not on the injector base?
 

bert35csi

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It all depends on whether the old Bosch injectors have the barb nipples or the straight round nipples. With the straight nipples (same nipple design at fuel rail), you can certainly use the fuel injector clamps without leakage problems. With the barb nipples, do not use clamps of any type as they will undoubtedly leak. Use the factory brass bowl only, fit bowl at the base and slide in rubber hose, done. Do not fit hose in dry as it will almost impossible going into place, lubricate the inside hose with a little gasoline and it will slide into injector with little or no effort. Been there!

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bert35csi

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Injector with new FI hose installed.


Rubber seals, brass cup, and mounting ceramic gaskets.


All 6 injectors with new hoses fitted into L-jet fuel rail.
 
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James Poulter

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Excellent Bert, Many thanks. Mine are the stepped ones thats why I didn't fancy using fuel clamps as over time the fuel hose will only relax and end up leaking.
 

bert35csi

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Glad to be of some assistance James.

Believe the the 2 step barb fitting is the only thing keeping the hose in firm grip with hose. So basically, the 2 sharp edges of the barbs complete a perfect circular tight seal against the rubber hose. Fitting a clamp onto here will probably just deform the contact area between injector and hose, thus, a leaking injector at its base. Once hose is slipped into injector, there is no possibility of pulling it out again (other than cutting the hose out). The brass ‘bowl’ only function is to keep the hose end from fraying or damaged somehow.
 
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