there are some details about this that i would like to share, it is not only about the
how to deal with the clausor and ignition switch
- Thread starter deQuincey
- Start date
I installed a new switch when i refinished the column. I lubricated all the internals and then reinstalled. Easier to do when everything is out of the car.
peculiar, two types:
repaint and cosmetic finishing,
the dummy
original finish and colour
top repainted, using matt rustoleum spray
the dummy
original finish and colour
top repainted, using matt rustoleum spray
So this is very helpful in respect of my present problem.
DQ how did you get the tumbler out of the column after removing the grub and lock plate?
Did you have to back off/remove the shear bolts?
Mine comes out about 20mm and then sticks.
DQ how did you get the tumbler out of the column after removing the grub and lock plate?
Did you have to back off/remove the shear bolts?
Mine comes out about 20mm and then sticks.
@Wes
if you call me like that (@deQuincey), i am not DQ, you will be able to obtain an answer, otherwise it can take very long until i realize that you have asked me a qeustion, i do not follow all the threads, and i assume you dont also
i dont know what a shear bolt is, but in any case to remove only the ignition switch barrel you only need to remove the tiny bolt without head that has been mentioned several times and pull towards the carpet
if you need to remove the key lock whole barrel assembly, first remove the ignition switch switch pulling in the direction of the carpet , then remove the blocking tab that makes the clausor block antitheft action (be means of a beheaded bolt), and then pull the whole lock barrel assembly up towards the roof of the car, please be aware that you might need to fiddle with the key turning it towards an adequate position, do it smoothly
if you can not pull the lock barrel up completeley (after fiddling with the key), there is a possible thing that might happen, see, the lock barrel has a tiny retainer in its body, it is a sort of a beheaded nail, this should be all the way into the barrel, but it might have moved (very unlikely) but you know shit happens
regards
Thanks mate.
Totally forgot to ping you via the @ option.
Will have another go tomorrow and come back to you.
The 'shear bolts' I'm referring to are bolts 1-3 here: http://e9-driven.com/Public/Library/BMW-E9-Manual/pages/en/32320000.html#refertoc
Totally forgot to ping you via the @ option.
Will have another go tomorrow and come back to you.
The 'shear bolts' I'm referring to are bolts 1-3 here: http://e9-driven.com/Public/Library/BMW-E9-Manual/pages/en/32320000.html#refertoc
So are saying leave the beheaded bolts 1-3 alone as they don't hold it in place?
Cant get my head around how the beheaded bolts hold it in place as the plate they secure doesn't look connected to the key barrel.
I'm able to pull it out about 20mm towards the door and then it feels like it hits something.
Have tried rotating the key to various positions to no avail, also tried to rotate the barrel itself.
"towards the door" it took me a couple of seconds to understand
, ok towards the door for youbolts 123 have nothing to do with your job
i am saying that in my car there is only one more bolt, say number 4 that keeps the retainer, if you do not remove the retainer is virtually impossible to remove the lock barrel
explanation, blue arrow shows where the sheared bolt number 4 was
red arrow shows where the blocking pin enters (see also an schematic representation of the locking plate that goes in there)
red arrow shows where the blocking pin enters (see also an schematic representation of the locking plate that goes in there)
Got it.
I've pulled all that and it's still stuck.
As I've said you can pull out the mechanism towards my door about 1/2 inch and then it hits something internally.
My suspicion is that possibly something inside the barrel is catching in the sleeve, or there is a groove I need to line up or something.
This could possibly also be the root cause of my ignition failure.
Therefore rotating the key to the 'drive' position doesn't seem to aid in removal.
The steering shaft often has to separate from the upper column to remove the cylinder.
- you will see a cut out portion in the shaft that is the reason the wheel locks. A button comes out of the cylinder and fits into this cut out. If your cylinder is worn you drop the shaft and push up on the button to clear it for removal.
With shaft lowered you can pry cylinder from rear instead of pulling from front- mucheasier
- you will see a cut out portion in the shaft that is the reason the wheel locks. A button comes out of the cylinder and fits into this cut out. If your cylinder is worn you drop the shaft and push up on the button to clear it for removal.
With shaft lowered you can pry cylinder from rear instead of pulling from front- mucheasier
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@deQuincey
I got the assembly out of the car today after some stuffing around.
Pulled the wheel and steering column. This allowed me to give it a light tap from behind and it just popped straight out.
Mine is a 'Type B' (90deg).
How do I disassemble the mechanism from here?
The key tumbler need to come out so I can inspect, clean replace to figure out what's going on.
I got the assembly out of the car today after some stuffing around.
Pulled the wheel and steering column. This allowed me to give it a light tap from behind and it just popped straight out.
Mine is a 'Type B' (90deg).
How do I disassemble the mechanism from here?
The key tumbler need to come out so I can inspect, clean replace to figure out what's going on.
wes, the key lock mechanism (is that one called tumbler ?) will be removed once you exert pressure on its locking tab through a small hole in the body of the barrel, look at my pics to identify the locking tab, and then you will understand
the rest of the mechanism placed in the oposite end will be able to be dissassembled easily but i can not explain, there is a piece in the lateral side of the barrel that has to come out and a very small beheaded nail that you will have to remove
in any case, if you do not feel very confortable dissasembling this last part you just can spray thin oil through it and clean it this way
remember that oil (wd40 or similar) is ok for mechanisms, except the internals of the key lock (tumbler ?) that has to be oiled with graphite, (unless somebody previously used oil in there becasue then graphite plus oil will make a real mess)
Ok, that makes sense - got it.
This is where I'm at now.
Back end of the key mechanism - this looks flogged out to me and could be the cause of the issue?
Looking inside the barrel - this marries to the electrical part of the switch. This doesn't seem to have much wear on it.
Looking inside the barrel - this mates to the back of the key mechanism. Again this doesn't look too worn. That said I take your earlier point as the whole thing is gummed up with grease and old machine oil. Will degrease tomorrow.
What do you think the fix is here - new key mechanism?
ok, my opinion,
if there is nothing blocked or cracked or broken, cleaning is the solution
as far as i can see you have no plastic or teflon parts there
if you have access to compress air i woulddo the following,
get a contact cleaner spray (used in electronic to clean contacts leaves no residue and dries very quickly)
make a mixture 3/4 gasoline 1/4 diesel
get a glass full of mixture and put your bits inside
use a brush or similar to help the fluid cleaning tha outside and inside where you have access
replace fluid with clean one as needed
do the same with the key lock mechanism
let everything stirr a bit and blow compress air to help removing the mixture
the barrel will be happy with some wd40, apply in excess and let stirr over paper towels, do not remove the oil from surfaces, simply stirr
the key mechanism blow graphite powder through the key hole, and dip the key in graphite and insert the key, move it slowly backward and forwards, trying to spread the graphite internally, blow some graphite from the rear side too
make sure your key turns and works perfect
then clean the excess graphite
and use the oily wet paper towels to smear the external body of the key mech with a bit of oil to let it be inserted easily into the barrel, free the blocking tab and let oil hold there
try to avoid oil-graphite contact
my guess is that it will work great after that
