jack placement question

zinz

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Howdy folks, I'm posting for a friend over on BMW2002FAQ. Hope y'all can help.

Ed


He's asking:

Mike S suggested I try here -
Anyone have a photo of how the jack and lug wrench store in a 3/73 Bavaria? I've tried just about every orientation I can think of, and the hole in the jack just doesn't line up with the studs at the rear. Also, should there be an adapter ring under the clamping plate that retains the wheel? We have two plates, but no ring. RealOEM diagrams indicate there might be one, but it gives no description or part number. The clamping plates (there are two) seem to be notched to accommodate the lug wrench, but, when sandwiched and on the center stud, there are not enough threads for the nut. And the plates' notches do not match up to the center-hub lip. This is an all-original, 1 owner Ceylon automatic car with less than 25K on it. We're trying to keep it as complete and original as possible - the original spare has never been on the ground. The car has been converted for use with hand controls, which we are documenting, removing, and saving. It's a time capsule.

Thanks,
David
IMG_20190613_080858731.jpg
 

HB Chris

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Looks like evidence of foam below the jack is still there. Lug wrench should sit under the jack. And the spare hold down doesn’t use a ring as well, that was in later cars, he has the correct hold down.
 

David Yando

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The notches in the plates don't correspond to the centerbore of the wheel. When we first looked, both pieces were stacked, like a spacer, and the flat side was against the wheel. Is that correct? I will see what I can do with the lug wrench - I'm sure if I get it right, it'll all but click into place. There is no hole in any part of the wrench, however, so I'm flying blind. Our chock is the only thing missing in the entire car - am I correct in guessing that it fots over the other, right-side stud, using the other wing nut?

David
 

David Yando

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Looks like evidence of foam below the jack is still there. Lug wrench should sit under the jack. And the spare hold down doesn’t use a ring as well, that was in later cars, he has the correct hold down.
Yes, the ghosts of the old foam led me to try harder with the jack placement. Halfway there now...
 

HB Chris

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Lug wrench just sits under the jack in a coupe, no separate mount. Yes, the black metal hold down sits with flat side towards wheel
 

HB Chris

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Wheel chock originally had a pouch on side of your trunk caddy to hold it. It won’t fit next to spare, in my coupe it sits in the trunk caddy. Love the Ceylon gold!
 

David Yando

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Getting closer - The jack seems happy, and the lug wrench and crank of the jack are captured by one of the notched clamping plates w/ washer and wingnut. (if it'd had a large and a small notch, like my 2002, I would've known - maybe) I have a steel chock on order from the dealer, so I'll cross that bridge when it arrives. The wheel hold-down is still a mystery - OK, the notched clamping plate goes flat-side down, holding the wheel - BUT - the paint on the center stud is only about an inch shy of the top of the stud, while the nut would need to thread down another inch or two at least, to mane contact. A) the paint is pristine, so that's never had to happen before, and B) the lug wrench is not a deepwell, so it does not have enough reach to loosen or tighten if it's that fat down the stud.
 

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David Yando

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With a disc wheel you can use the notched side of plate, I didn’t know what kind of spare you have.
It's pictured twice above - and the notches do not correspond to the raised lip on the bore. Close, but off. We think maybe there should be an adapter ring, shown without part number on the RealOEM site, part #14. We may print one up from measurements to see if it makes sense.
 

HB Chris

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You are correct, notches don’t match that’s why many flip it over and use a deep socket. Same as e9. The round mounting ring came on later models.
 

David Yando

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You are correct, notches don’t match that’s why many flip it over and use a deep socket. Same as e9. The round mounting ring came on later models.
I just wish our shop had taken photos before removing everything - the paint on the stud is not disturbed more than an inch or so; I must be missing something.
 

GolfBavaria

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E32A1AF5-672B-4CDE-9043-5494C588C1E9.jpeg After looking at the wear marks on where the old foam used to go, I say I need to flip the lug wrench around and it will be correct. And I disagree that the flat side down on the tire hold. My paint would have been worn over the years and you can see no wear on that side.
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AC881FF7-D266-4F92-B94E-1C626F21A633.jpeg48C56739-42F1-4CE2-A6E4-7CF374397DBA.jpeg1D923C53-255A-4B2C-B1F2-DB5AE7018788.jpeg1BB2F23C-0330-49D2-B141-00711FCA7E19.jpeg
 
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GolfBavaria

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Howdy folks, I'm posting for a friend over on BMW2002FAQ. Hope y'all can help.

Ed


He's asking:

Mike S suggested I try here -
Anyone have a photo of how the jack and lug wrench store in a 3/73 Bavaria? I've tried just about every orientation I can think of, and the hole in the jack just doesn't line up with the studs at the rear. Also, should there be an adapter ring under the clamping plate that retains the wheel? We have two plates, but no ring. RealOEM diagrams indicate there might be one, but it gives no description or part number. The clamping plates (there are two) seem to be notched to accommodate the lug wrench, but, when sandwiched and on the center stud, there are not enough threads for the nut. And the plates' notches do not match up to the center-hub lip. This is an all-original, 1 owner Ceylon automatic car with less than 25K on it. We're trying to keep it as complete and original as possible - the original spare has never been on the ground. The car has been converted for use with hand controls, which we are documenting, removing, and saving. It's a time capsule.

Thanks,
David
IMG_20190613_080858731.jpg
Nice ride. Are you sure the tire has "never been on the ground?" I don't see any of the "nubbies" on there.
 
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David Yando

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I can't be 100% sure, but the car has only 13, 242 miles on it, the Michelin X tire has no visible date code (must be on the flip side), plenty of 'nubbies" and seems to have a thin coating of release compound. The shop did note that the other four tires (now replaced with new Michelins) carried a 1973 date code, along with the battery.
Thanks to all, especially for the photos - that confirms what we ended up with - the foam "ghosts" are helpful in figuring it out. We've got a chock on the way, and then we're set!
 

David Yando

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The dealer had an $80 steel one, and an aluminum one, both "for the E3". I took a pass, looked on Ebay, and bought a NOS one - looks like my '76 2002 chock, so keeping fingers crossed. It was only $11.
 

David Yando

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I flipped the tire over - it still has the paint stripe around the circumference, and the date code on the back side was "023", so I am thinking January 1973. Could be 1983, but with so few miles, doubt it.
 
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