more questions

[damienh]

I was wondering what I can do to protect my car from further rust, particularly in the cavities. Malc mentioned smothering waxoyl everywhere on a 2002 he had, but I'm concerned about squirting anything in the cavities that could block drain holes when dry. Also I wonder how it's possible to get dirt etc out without having to cut sections away to gain access.

I also can't figure two things out - 1. how to remove the heater. And 2. How to disasseble and reassemble one of the front seats, specifically removing the metal handle for tilting the seat forward, as mine has snapped off.

Thanks for any help at all.

Damien

 

[x_atlas0]

For some of the cavities, especially the fender wells, fender guards have worked fairly well. A Volvo one is apparently nearly a direct-fit, and there are very nice aluminum ones available.

As for the rest of them, there isn't much you can do aside from keep it clean and dry.

 

[Malc]

Damien,
For cavities and box sections I use a product such as Dinitrol or Bithamber. They are "thinner" and thus creep into all the joints and corners. I use Waxoyl on the more exposed areas of the underside as it is thicker and more resistant to being "washed off" as it were.
Once I had finished doing all this to my 2002 and other cars I have I check all the drain holes every time I service them - good practice anyway as they can easily get bunged up with crud, leaves, and other rubbish.

Best way to clean box sections is to use a steam cleaner, but be careful not to trap water in them, plus you may force water into the car.

Getting the heater out :roll: means taking most of the dash board apart

0.. Disconnect battery
1.. Remove lower dashboard covers, label wiring as required
2.. Remove center console and fresh air vents
3.. Disconnect heater water hoses where they go through the bulkhead
4.. Disconnect the vent tubes for the demisters
5.. Remove the heater cover from under the bonnet
6.. Disconnect the wiring from the heater fan motor
7.. from inside the car undo the four 10mm nuts holding the heater matrix to the bulkhead

Now no doubt the heater box will be stuck.....Be very careful about prying at it as it is made of the most brittle plastic known to man and will easily crack and break

As for taking the seats apart, I don't know its another thing on my list though!

 

[damienh]

Wow, that sounds like a bit of an ordeal. Will definitely have to put aside slightly more time than I had expected when tackling it, thanks for the advice.

I guess you had the car apart when putting that stuff in those cavities, can see steam cleaning it being very hard with everything intact. I'll have a dig around and see where I can get in to, and great tip about checking the drain holes by the way!

Actually, while we're on the subject of seats - you were interested a while back in the grey leather interior I have Malc, which is still in the parts car. I managed to put a couple of small tears in one of the seats getting in and out without realising it recently, I had intended letting you know before doing anything with the car. I didn't realise the leather needed treating so badly.

 

[Malc]

I didn't have some of the cars completely apart when I rust proofed them. I steam clean the undersides to get the crud off, but the box sections usually can be treated without much work. Blowing the rubbish out with compressed air will help if you think they are bad

Yeap still interested in your interior!
This has happened because Mrs Malc is swithering over the exterior colour again! :lol:
Malc

 

[damienh]

Ah yes the colour. The only thing an expert can't help you with. I hated my Turquoise colour at first, now I wouldn't want any other.

 

[Laldog]

rustproofing (attempts)

In one chapter of my coupes checkered history, someone had it professionally rustproofed. In variuos locations throughout the car, there are access holes (I would say 1/4 - 3/8 inch) that were used to spray in whatever product they used.

I have used these holes to re-apply a rustproofing product. In my case, I used Por-15, expensive and kind of a pain to use, but it is thin enough to spray a I thought it would be longer lasting than a wax based product.

I used a rustproofing kit from Eastwood. It comes with a variety of spray tips, wands and extensions to reach around corners and spray from all angles.

Of course, I'll never be sure exactly how complete my coverage was, but since the holes are already there (with plugs) ther wsn't much to lose.

You might consider drilling a few holes yourself and doing the same thing. It took no more than 4 hours.