I can't find any leads for this series of engine found in my 1970, assuming it's not original. Any help would be greatly appreciated.
3101234 found on top of starter casing.
3101234 found on top of starter casing.
Motor identification in 1970 CS
- Thread starter Thomas76
- Start date
MY 1972 US spec 3.0 S Bavaria. Estimated build date Nov/Dec 1971. Build date is a SWAG based on 6,941 units built between 07/71 and 07/73.
You can also email BMW Archive your VIN to get the make/model/year/color/destination of said Bavaria.
You can also email BMW Archive your VIN to get the make/model/year/color/destination of said Bavaria.
MY = model year
ha! Ok that seems a little more realistic. Thanks for clearing that up. Now to dig into the difference between Bavaria motors and e9 motors. This is a fun turn of events considering my car should have had the 2800.
Motors are basically the same HP wise in the US, 2800 was 9/1, 3.0 8/1 compression.
I'm sensing a trend. thank you.
With 100% of my cars containing non-original motors it begs the question of why so many fail. I've heard these engines are sewing machines and run forever but that is not my experience so far. Overheating problems perhaps kills many of them? Is unleaded fuel a problem for the heads?
thank you. With 100% of my cars containing non-original motors it begs the question of why so many fail. I've heard these engines are sewing machines and run forever but that is not my experience so far. Overheating problems perhaps kills many of them? Is unleaded fuel a problem for the heads?
I'm sensing a trend.
With 100% of my cars containing non-original motors it begs the question of why so many fail. I've heard these engines are sewing machines and run forever but that is not my experience so far. Overheating problems perhaps kills many of them? Is unleaded fuel a problem for the heads?
The cylinder head forms cracks on the old pre-1982 motors. I suspect you see a lot of swapped motors because it is just about as much work (IMO) to swap a known running motor than it is to swap a head. If you swap an ‘82+ head, you also need to swap the cam. The 3.0 has a 272 degree cam which wasn’t used after the 3.0.
Say you drop in a replacement head. You pull the old head, uninstall/install the exhaust manifolds and or down pipe. Pull the valve cover, pull the head, swap the carbs, replace the head gasket, swap the fuel pump, time the motor, potentially swap the cam, and/or potentially tune the carbs.
On the flip side, put in a different motor with lower mileage and throw in a new clutch while you are in there.
And an overheated motor can damage the pistons as they expand too much, resulting in scuffing on the skirts.