Oil Pump Pickup 1970 2800CS

1e9kalkid

Member
Messages
18
Reaction score
0
To all the wise E9'rs:
I am finishing the engine rebuild on my 1970 2800CS but ran into a clearance issue with the replacement of the oil pump pickup nozzle (from BMW Germany, part#1141278387) and original oil pan.

The new pickup nozzle is about an inch thick, the old pickup nozzle was about 1/8 an inch thick, hence an interference with bolting down the oil pan.

Does anyone know where I might find a replacement to my original? Or any other solution?

Thanks!
Kris
 

Attachments

  • Original Oil Pickup 1.jpg
    Original Oil Pickup 1.jpg
    79.8 KB · Views: 157
  • New Oil Pickup 1.jpg
    New Oil Pickup 1.jpg
    89.1 KB · Views: 163
Is that the correct part number? Even with a 0 in front it doesn't show up in Real OEM.

It looks like the pump for my b35 conversion, 11411269550. Does the cap come off the pickup? Perhaps the newer pump is the only one available.
 
Last edited:
To all the wise E9'rs:
I am finishing the engine rebuild on my 1970 2800CS but ran into a clearance issue with the replacement of the oil pump pickup nozzle (from BMW Germany, part#1141278387) and original oil pan.

The new pickup nozzle is about an inch thick, the old pickup nozzle was about 1/8 an inch thick, hence an interference with bolting down the oil pan.

Does anyone know where I might find a replacement to my original? Or any other solution?

Thanks!
Kris

yes, i know this, i faced the same issue two years ago, the old oil pan is unable to hold the new pump

to avoid the interference two solutions,

one, find a newer oil pan, i.e. year 75, 76

two, using a metal saw cut the bottom cilindric part of the new oil pump, cut just before the multihole suction base, this is you cut only enough to avoid the interference, but you maintain the filtering property of that end

i did this second one, i have a oil pressure gauge, no issues,fantastic performance, two years since that no problems

just be careful to clean very well all the metal debris after cuting the piece
 
Is that the correct part number? Even with a 0 in front it doesn't show up in Real OEM.

It looks like the pump for my b35 conversion, 11411269550. Does the cap come off the pickup? Perhaps the newer pump is the only one available.

The current catalog number is 1141278387, the new part number is stamped with114117052410, while the old catalog number was 11411256391.

The cap does not come off on the new part, I may have to cut it off?
Thanks!
Kris
 
yes, i know this, i faced the same issue two years ago, the old oil pan is unable to hold the new pump

to avoid the interference two solutions,

one, find a newer oil pan, i.e. year 75, 76

two, using a metal saw cut the bottom cilindric part of the new oil pump, cut just before the multihole suction base, this is you cut only enough to avoid the interference, but you maintain the filtering property of that end

i did this second one, i have a oil pressure gauge, no issues,fantastic performance, two years since that no problems

just be careful to clean very well all the metal debris after cuting the piece

Yes, this is what I have been contemplating, but wanted to find out if anyone else had done this with success or if there was another solution?
Thanks!
Kris
 
Yes, this is what I have been contemplating, but wanted to find out if anyone else had done this with success or if there was another solution?
Thanks!
Kris

now you have the proof, i did it, and it works !:wink:
you are lucky, i was alone, and that was the last moment, only two hours to finish the engine and to place it in the car and finish, it was a friday, and i needed the car
 
It shouldn't take more than 20 minutes to fix.
Use a dremel to make 4 small cuts at 3,6,9,12 on the edge of the pick up can.
Use a pair of dikes to peel back that lip and remove the can.
Do the same on the other pump and swap them.
Crimp the old pickup can to the new pump with pliers.
Done.
 

Attachments

  • image.jpg
    image.jpg
    93.8 KB · Views: 166
Finished pump..
 

Attachments

  • image.jpg
    image.jpg
    91 KB · Views: 152
you should be able to unbolt the back part of the pump that includes the pick up and swap them over,
 
Ummm - don't forget the gear and chain.
Early is 3 bolts and gear size is different.

Nobody has ever hired me to install an updated pump on an old engine

It's the back part of the pump that has the upgrade- that's the important part to keep.
 
Nobody has ever hired me to install an updated pump on an old engine

Don, Do you mean these pumps never go bad? I'm pulling the engine (8X,XXX miles) from my coupe this winter to refresh the engine with new rings, bearings, re-hone, etc.

What do you think I should do with the pump?
 
There was a person that taught me how to wrench....
One of the things he told me was to leave the oil pump alone.
New chain, crank gear, oil pump gear ok.
Leave the pump alone.
He was a very good wrench.
 
Don, Do you mean these pumps never go bad? I'm pulling the engine (8X,XXX miles) from my coupe this winter to refresh the engine with new rings, bearings, re-hone, etc.

What do you think I should do with the pump?

my experience is, in three M30 engines we changed the oil pump ALWAYS
impossible to know how many km on those engines, but checked the tolerances at the rotor, ...e voila !
 
I was always told to replace the pump automatically on a rebuild. However the shop that did the machining and assembly said there was no reason to as the pump was not worn. They were backing the engine up for a year so I didn't worry. One thing they did do was to shim the springs in the pump to give a bit more pressure
 
I was always told to replace the pump automatically on a rebuild. However the shop that did the machining and assembly said there was no reason to as the pump was not worn. They were backing the engine up for a year so I didn't worry. One thing they did do was to shim the springs in the pump to give a bit more pressure

Which "springs"? You mean the pressure relief spring (not springs). Is that an accepted way to increase pressure without other unwanted side effects?
 
Yes, what I was told by them is they shimmed the spring and it shouldn't cause any problems. I had the engine done in one of the top shops in the Phoenix area and they are well known for building race engines, which of course, mine isn't.
 
Back
Top