Por-15

[bluecoupe30!]

This anti rust product has been around for many years now, but I have yet to use it. Just wondering if members here can share experiences with this product. There appears to be a stepwise application process, then a topcoat is suggested if the paint is exposed to sunlight. Also famous is how difficult it is to remove the product if it touches your skin. So, if you could share details like where did you use it, did you topcoat, did it last, would you use it again, how did you apply, what safety measures did you observe, how long did it take to dry? Anything like
that would be helpful. Not inexpensive, but has some serious rust abating claims, will appreciate hearing about your experiences. Mike

 

[Drew Gregg]

Mike--I used the POR-15 on a painted steel trailer that had rust bubbles everywhere. I used a wire brush to knock off the bubbles and then painted it on with a cheap brush. It dried overnight to a gloss finish that looks like the enamel on an old washing machine. I then painted an oil-based black paint over the gloss finish with another cheap brush.
I then used it to paint the metal strips that are riveted on the rear bumper that hold the rubber. It was brushed on with another throw-away brush. The finish will protect those strips better than leaving them as bare metal.
Here's the caveat: The lid/can had some paint in it even though I cleaned the groove. I had to cut the lid off-paint those strips -and throw the rest of the can away. Once this stuff dries,it can't be pried apart. Follow the directions and just use cheap brushes on your project. And really clean the lid & can before sealing it up for the next job.
I probably used lacquer thinner to wipe any that got on my hands.

 

[bluecoupe30!]

Mike--I used the POR-15 on a painted steel trailer that had rust bubbles everywhere. I used a wire brush to knock off the bubbles and then painted it on with a cheap brush. It dried overnight to a gloss finish that looks like the enamel on an old washing machine. I then painted an oil-based black paint over the gloss finish with another cheap brush.
I then used it to paint the metal strips that are riveted on the rear bumper that hold the rubber. It was brushed on with another throw-away brush. The finish will protect those strips better than leaving them as bare metal.
Here's the caveat: The lid/can had some paint in it even though I cleaned the groove. I had to cut the lid off-paint those strips -and throw the rest of the can away. Once this stuff dries,it can't be pried apart. Follow the directions and just use cheap brushes on your project. And really clean the lid & can before sealing it up for the next job.
I probably used lacquer thinner to wipe any that got on my hands.

Thanks Drew, that is very helpful. I do have concerns about the lid sealing forever once opened, so am considering just using a few 4 oz cans for the project.

 

[coupesport]

I have used POR15 to slow underneath rust on my daily driver e23 and am pretty impressed with it. Same experience as Drew - once the container is resealed it is sealed! Tried storing it in plastic but air gets to it and its done.

 

[adawil2002]

When I bought my CSi in 2011, it had a dented passenger floor & a cracked seam at the floor, rocker panel & A-pillar where it was improperly jacked at some point. I cleaned the area & used the POR metal prep to treat what I was unable to reach. Then used West System Epoxy & 6 oz. fiberglass tape to seal up the crack & gaps. Sanded off the epoxy blush coat. Then used POR-15 as the epoxy top coat. I used rattle can rubberized undercoating over the POR-15. This temporary repair lasted for 3 years until the area was properly cut patched & welded.

 

[mulberryworks]

I used POR-15 on a truck frame with only a wire brushing for prep that then sat out in Texas weather for 6 years. With enough UV exposure it did change from its glossy finish to a mat finish, but there was no sign of failure. The stuff is tough. I had bought a dented can from a paint store so it was cheaper than list price. Water in the air is what causes it to set, so it doesn't 'dry' in the conventional sense. If you keep the can lid on as much as possible, you keep it from setting in the can, somewhat. I also picked up an empty quart can to pour the remainder into so I got another session out of it. I always use disposable gloves along with a disposable brush. There is a dedicated solvent for POR-15 but it isn't cheap either. I'd double check with the maker for top coat recommendations.

 

[stphers]

Mike

Give me a call about POR 15 Used lots of it and a lot of their other products There are some very strict procedures for using POR 15 Also, a good way to try and save it in the can is to use a special spray that is heavier than air that you shoot into the top of the can before you put the lid on.. I also use some thin plastic on the inside of the can from over the lip of the can down to the top of the remaining product, that helps to keep the air away which is what dries out the paint

Thanks, Rick

 

[Nicad]

I have done quite a few parts with POR 15 over the years. Did my Corvair gas tank close to 20 years ago as well as the floor. Held up Prefectly. Did some roof rack brackets I made many years ago for my E46 wagon. Powder coat last 1 year before peeling off, but the POR 15 last probably 5 immersed in a salty bath. I usually get small mason jars ready before I open the can and pour it carefully into them till full. I generally don't need that much at a time. I always am fastidious about following the directions with Marine Clean, followed by their acid etch. Always wear eye protection when handling it. It is particularly dangerous if trying to open a stuck can. Make sure you have very good ventilation. Took 3 rounds of anti biotics to fix my throat when I did my Corvair floor so many years ago.

 

[Stan]

I used PO%15 muffler paint on my exhaust system and it has lasted 5+ years
Much better than a rusty looking system

 

[halboyles]

once the container is resealed it is sealed!

I use this all the time on subframes, gas tanks, trailing arms, etc. The trick to keeping the leftover paint fresh is to first punch a few small holes in the groove where the lid fits to drain the paint in that groove back into the can. When you are finished with the job, put a couple of layers of plastic wrap in between the lid and the can and then press the lid firmly into the groove. I've keep even mostly empty cans for months like this.

 

[Nicad]

Attempting to hand my Forester off to my Son as his first car I am in need of getting it safety checked. It has a crack in the windshield. The windshield shop says rust under the windshield caused the crack and does not want to install a new one till it is corrected. I was thinking of cutting out the bad piece of glass with a cut off wheel , repairing the damage as best as possible and coating with POR 15, then driving it to the glass shop A Google search brought me to this page of POR 15 Naysayers.

Why is POR-15 so frowned upon?

I've noticed a lot of posts that are very against POR-15 and I'm curious why. I figured it would be a decent paint for frames/suspension components. I tried to search but POR isn't long enough. I used it to coat the inside of a panel when I had it opened up for a patch. Is it for when people try...

www.spiuserforum.com

They kinda have me worried again

 

[bavbob]

In doing my tank, I had to use a pair of pliers to open the can. I always use a syringe to dole out the paint etc to ensure no drips along the sealing surfaces and if I get some on them, I wipe it immediately. I so far, have been able to save what I did not use.

If the rust is not thru and thru such that I need to cut and patch, I grind it to bare metal, then hit it with a rust converter, follow it with Eastwood encapsulation and then epoxy primer. With 8 cars, this is a frequent event and POR is almost a use once and toss so does not fit my schedule. I have had no issues with my approach which I began to use in 2012. If POR came in a spray can, I would certainly use it more.

 

[Stevehose]

You need a high tech mask if spraying POR-15 as it is even more nuclear in aerosol form. I've used the gas tank system - love it. I used it to practively protect my floors, but they weren't rusty. I've used the exhaust manifold paint (now called "high temp") and love it - goes on well, self levels, and lasts a long time. Just recently put it on my exhaust pipes, am looking forward to seeing how it does.

 

[Ohmess]

I had rust inside my gas tank, and after dealing with the rust, used the POR 15 gas tank kit to seal it up. It's been four years now, no troubles.

I also used their anti-rust product in a couple of places in my coupe. I had an area of my passenger side floor that had been dented from hitting something and there were tiny amounts of surface rust around the dent. After pushing it out, and taking a wire wheel to the surface rust, I used POR 15 on both sides. I covered the underside of the car with rustoleum flat black. I did not paint over the inside because it is covered by carpeting and floor mats. I did a similar repair in my spare tire well, inside only, which had a tiny amount of surface rust.

I sometimes applied the POR 15 with a long cotton swap (those babies come in handy for lots of things), and I keep a small supply of cheap paint brushes on hand that I used once and immediately throw away.

As to the lid, I got a trick from Peter Coomaraswamy: punch two holes in the lid, and insert a hex head screw into each hole. Even when the POR 15 hardens around the screws, they can be removed with a wrench.

 

[Nicad]

One thing I have done with the product when I have used it is to apply a topcoat while it is still tacky. Have used Trim spray paint as well as a Rustoleum type paint and it has worked well. Their engine enamel came out great on my 2002.

 

[bluecoupe30!]

I use this all the time on subframes, gas tanks, trailing arms, etc. The trick to keeping the leftover paint fresh is to first punch a few small holes in the groove where the lid fits to drain the paint in that groove back into the can. When you are finished with the job, put a couple of layers of plastic wrap in between the lid and the can and then press the lid firmly into the groove. I've keep even mostly empty cans for months like this.

Never heard of that. Great suggestion!

 

[bluecoupe30!]

Attempting to hand my Forester off to my Son as his first car I am in need of getting it safety checked. It has a crack in the windshield. The windshield shop says rust under the windshield caused the crack and does not want to install a new one till it is corrected. I was thinking of cutting out the bad piece of glass with a cut off wheel , repairing the damage as best as possible and coating with POR 15, then driving it to the glass shop A Google search brought me to this page of POR 15 Naysayers.

Why is POR-15 so frowned upon?

I've noticed a lot of posts that are very against POR-15 and I'm curious why. I figured it would be a decent paint for frames/suspension components. I tried to search but POR isn't long enough. I used it to coat the inside of a panel when I had it opened up for a patch. Is it for when people try...

www.spiuserforum.com

They kinda have me worried again

Hmmm, another sleepless night!

 

[JFENG]

This stuff sounds like a miracle. The gas tank out of my ‘74 GTV is clean as a whistle inside. Would you guys still advise to etch and coat with POR-15?

John

 

[Nicad]

This stuff sounds like a miracle. The gas tank out of my ‘74 GTV is clean as a whistle inside. Would you guys still advise to etch and coat with POR-15?

John

No, as long as you keep it full of good non ethanol gas it should remain that way. In the vintage motorcycle forums I frequent people have had a lot of problems with each type of lining system.

 

[Rex Kapriellian]

I used PO%15 muffler paint on my exhaust system and it has lasted 5+ years
Much better than a rusty looking system

Is this sold in rattle cans?