Post head repair worries

frogish

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Last year I change my head with a later one since overheating the original and finding exhaust in the coolant. Bought an 85 head and spent 1000 bucks to have it completely redone. Pressure tested, milled, New valves etc. Also milled the chain cover.

Started it up last year just to see that everything worked then it's been sitting and now I've rejetted my dcoes and change bearings in the trans to get it Rolling again.

However i am getting a lot of blue smoke, and also bubbles in my coolant when revving. This gives me bad vibes.
Bolt bores were cleaned thouroughly and bolts and washers lightly oiled when I installed the head. Torqued after warming up, However did not loosen the bolts to do it. Have not found my coolant exhaust tester yet so will see what that tells me when I find it.

Will I have to redo the whole thing again?
 
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eriknetherlands

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It may have to do with me focusing on the more important items:
Which of the 12 pliers would be correct ? That doesn't help me get the car on the road again.
 

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Wladek

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Perhaps.. Any experience with W&n head gaskets? It's the one I used
I purchased complete csi engine gaskets set from W&N, because some of little gaskets that are NLA cost more than anyone can expact.
But i never used Glaser 1,95mm headgasket that was in W&N set.
At the very beginning i used Elring headgasket as i needed 2,1mm on both of my engines to set TDC properly after cylinder heads milling.
Why i didn't used W&N even on the second engine? - during engine work i fitted it & it was miss-aligned around ~1mm on the side (on water & oil channels) and if compare to original gasket while earlier disassembly or Elring that was fitted during the engine work.
So i would say if you had Glaser headgasket - it could made it.
 

sfdon

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Cracked blocks result from oil left in the head bolt bores and present as oil in the coolant.

My last 3 Glaser headgaskets bought from Walloth all leaked horribly and had to be replaced. They actually leaked coolant before I could start the engines.

You should measure the thickness of the fire ring and then the composite.
The fire ring thickness was too thick for the composite material to seal properly.
Walloth was decent and offered to send them in for examination but I considered it a waste of time.
I only buy other brands now.
 

frogish

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Cracked blocks result from oil left in the head bolt bores and present as oil in the coolant.

My last 3 Glaser headgaskets bought from Walloth all leaked horribly and had to be replaced. They actually leaked coolant before I could start the engines.

You should measure the thickness of the fire ring and then the composite.
The fire ring thickness was too thick for the composite material to seal properly.
Walloth was decent and offered to send them in for examination but I considered it a waste of time.
I only buy other brands now.
Alright, no oil in the coolant luckily. Will pull the head tomorrow, all is prepared now though.
 

deQuincey

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Last year I change my head with a later one since overheating the original and finding exhaust in the coolant. Bought an 85 head and spent 1000 bucks to have it completely redone. Pressure tested, milled, New valves etc. Also milled the chain cover.

Started it up last year just to see that everything worked then it's been sitting and now I've rejetted my dcoes and change bearings in the trans to get it Rolling again.

However i am getting a lot of blue smoke, and also bubbles in my coolant when revving. This gives me bad vibes.
Bolt bores were cleaned thouroughly and bolts and washers lightly oiled when I installed the head. Torqued after warming up, However did not loosen the bolts to do it. Have not found my coolant exhaust tester yet so will see what that tells me when I find it.

Will I have to redo the whole thing again?

"bolts and washers lightly oiled when I installed the head. " ...but why ?

torque is specified for dry bolts IMHO
 

HB Chris

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Forget the blue book, a very light bit of oil is needed and you don’t want the bolt to hang up on the washer. From the pro, sfdon.
 

frogish

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Getting my new Elring gasket tomorrow.
Is there a trick to detect very fine cracks? I think my block is good but I want to make sure while I'm in there.
 

sfdon

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A bright light and some patience.
and study that gasket carefully
use a micrometer on the gasket
 

frogish

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Checked the block with light and Crick 120 crack detector. Found nothing.
My exhaust coolant tester turns green though. Dont know what to make of it?
Still runs hot, but not as before. Takes longer and kond of settles around 3/4 up. Will buy a new temp sensor and see IF that is acting up.


IMG_20210723_121929.jpg
IMG_20210724_105810.jpg
 

frogish

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Been checking temperature with a laser now and it shows about 85 C, even with temp gauge higher than middle. None of the hoses are hard, which would indicate exhaust in coolant. Starting to question the reliability of The test or if it's possible that exhaust gases can be trapped within the coolant system from before?

Another thing, my 9 blade fan is stiffer cold than warm?
 
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