I USE ONLY ONE SPRING TO MAKE IT EASIER TO INTALL AND USE
IT CLOSES JUST FINE AND EASY
IT CLOSES JUST FINE AND EASY
Thanks Markos, I'll make the measurement. That would be really interesting if there would be a difference. that would mean a solution too!
Thanks Markos. the display is pretty dark, but I read 70.15mm, correct? At some point I'll have another go at it, but probably after the driving season! (Too many other projects!)
I asked Oldenzaal (seller) about this, whether it could have been bent, etc. They confirmed this misalignment is not altogether uncommon. As far as rectifying it, their body guy smiled and replied: "fiddlin', fiddlin,...".
So I have a plan: I will measure as you have here, but I cannot imagine that this rigid structure is bent. If it's bent I'll try to restore it. If it's not, I will cut up my old rubber boot down to just the mounting part under the hinge and the lip around the door opening. That way I can "fiddle" more easily and try for good fitment.
Mind you that behind the two plugs are three nuts. It is a bit odd, but it sure helps to know this. I was swearing a lot to get the door off my car, until I found the 3rd nut....
On the pic a NOS quarter panel, looking at the inside. You can just spot the 3 welded on (M6?) studs.
That is my impression as well. That assembly is quite stout. I count myself lucky that I didn't put a flex crease in the rear quarter panel, or at least a paint crack. 200 lbs bumping into the open door must apply a serious amount of force, but when you have this assembly in your hands, it doesn't seem likely that it could bend.looking at the pic from Erik , i assume the metal plate with studs would bend more easy than the cast alu door itself….. ?
looking at the pic from Erik , i assume the metal plate with studs would bend more easy than the cast alu door itself….. ?
I will try to get to this sooner rather than later. It's possible that the force caused the stud plate to lift away from the quarter panel slightly. It wouldn't take much, we're talking 3-4 mm difference in contact of the door with the gasket. I think I'll have to remove the elephant skin to see that.That seems reasonable to me also. You could also fix it with some tapped rods that give you leverage to bend the studs back. I have to wonder if that plate bending would impact the alignment though. Wouldn’t the pivoting aspect of the hinge simply “absorb” the bend?
Great detective work! That explains it. So the solution is to somehow flex that plate. Maybe tack it with a bit of epoxy putty? It's not like that plate is likely to be removed.I confirmed that the steel mounting plate is the most likely culprit. Tugging on the door past the stop forces the plate to flex. Likewise, pushing on the plate causes the door to hug the body better.
Ignore the nastiness.