acat2002
Well-Known Member
Thanks to PaulinPa, I employed the 'frozen method' of removing the OEM sound deadening material from the floor. This may be the only time I've been thankful for <30degree new england tempertures! The tar-like material can be removed with minimal mess. Another thing I discovered that if it is cold enough you can use a chisel together with gently popping a rubber mallet against the metal surface to further induce the cracking and removal of the OEM tar paper. The combination of the cold temp and the vibrations created by the hammer really help break the bond between the painted surface and the sound deadening material. (this is probably not a good idea if you have some structural issues such as rust).
This phase was never intended to be a comprehensive restoration, so I was happy to discover that there were no major areas of rust hiding beneath the insulation. Just a little rust had developed in the rear floor pan (passenger side).
The driver side floor pan was in much better shape.
I have not removed the front insulation yet, but I won't have to fix any rust beneath the glove box.
I'll post some more pictures after the installation os Dynamat or Hushmat[/img]
This phase was never intended to be a comprehensive restoration, so I was happy to discover that there were no major areas of rust hiding beneath the insulation. Just a little rust had developed in the rear floor pan (passenger side).
The driver side floor pan was in much better shape.
I have not removed the front insulation yet, but I won't have to fix any rust beneath the glove box.
I'll post some more pictures after the installation os Dynamat or Hushmat[/img]