Rate my list of Modifications Please?

TilotLicense

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Okay,
I have a fairly clean 72 3.0cs sunroof car that has minor rust,I thought about selling and posted in the cars section for what I think was a very fair $6500.00 with not much response and have a literal ton of parts so before a bastardize the car I want to ask the experts as my fortay is Benz,my last Bavarian Queen a 1968 2000cs left me sour after dropping 10k in the car and getting $5500.00.
#2240090
car currently has wrong wheels-very ugly 16inch alloys
american body side markers
Black leather Nardi
some Vinyl on interior and badly cracked leather seats
speakers installed in rear parcel shelf
spacers on fenders to raise height

HERE ARE MY PLANS
1.Perfect body and correctly paint car black(original Silver car i think)?
2.Install perfect Red Leather interior I already have-correct factory combo for red interior including balck dash,white vinyl headliner/sunroof cover etc or full black leather interior? or full brownish tan interior? original color appears to be tanish?

3 install cherry red wood that I already have?
4.360 or 390mm Nardi wheel?
5.16X7 BMW wheels or 17x7 Hartge wheels 1.5 inch polished lip(both mesh Type wheels) or 18 inch
6. 3.5 euro spec block with 5 speed-injected with euro motronics or keep perfect running 3.3 with dual webers?
7.remove american side body markers and fill holes with metal
8.short shift kit?
9. stainless brake hoses
10.remove amercian fender spacers?
11.reinstall speedo in KM?
12. reinstall speakers under parcel shelf for factory look?
13.power windows up front or leave manual front windows?
12.MSD ignition control with Petronix
13. Convert a/c to r134a or leave r12?
14.Factory blackish carpet from World or custom black wool sewn in original pattern?
15.Sisal mats
16.H4 headlamps?
17.remount foglamps currently mounted on top of bumper (horrible) to under bumper?
18.alarm with lojack?
19.remove euro rear plate frame?
20.por 15 entire underside and inside of car when disassembled then weld all corners as coupe king suggests?
what should I not do from this list, at some point I will sell the car and know I won't get all my money but would love to get most of it back....

Again I have most of the parts sitting here
Tim [email protected].
 

velocewest

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OK, first a reality check -- for better or worse, e9's are not in the category of cars that you restore as an investment. You'll almost certainly spend money you'll never see again. More comments -- my opinions only -- below:

HERE ARE MY PLANS
1.Perfect body and correctly paint car black(original Silver car i think)?
I am not a fan of black on e9's. It hides to much of the car's detail and diminishes the lines.

2.Install perfect Red Leather interior I already have-correct factory combo for red interior including black dash,white vinyl headliner/sunroof cover etc or full black leather interior? or full brownish tan interior? original color appears to be tanish?
Renewed interior is worthwhile. Color should be complimentary to the exterior, although I wouldn't personally want red, it looks good with white or silver paint. The original interior is not full leather, only the seats and armrests are leather.

3 install cherry red wood that I already have?
Only if it works with the interior color.

4.360 or 390mm Nardi wheel?
It's personal preference. I like smaller.

5.16X7 BMW wheels or 17x7 Hartge wheels 1.5 inch polished lip(both mesh Type wheels) or 18 inch
I've never seen mesh Hartge's. Spoke Hartge's look awful on an e9 (and most everything else IMO). Personally I think 18" is a bit large on an e9, but 17's are OK if properly fitted. A 7" wheel is about the limit on the front, which is why most coupe wheel fitments are staggered.

6. 3.5 euro spec block with 5 speed-injected with euro motronics or keep perfect running 3.3 with dual webers?
Swapping to Motronic is a bit of work, but the improvement in driveability is great, and if you have the anemic 32/36 Webers the improvement in power will be dramatic. And the 3.5/5 speed is worth it even with carbs.

7.remove american side body markers and fill holes with metal
Yes.

8.short shift kit?
Install a 320i shifter, it shortens the throw and drops in, it's a factory part.

9. stainless brake hoses
Yes.

10.remove amercian fender spacers?
Yes.

11.reinstall speedo in KM?
Unless you live outside the US, no.

12. reinstall speakers under parcel shelf for factory look?
I seldom turn on the music in my e9, but yes, hiding the speakers is a worthwhile project.

13.power windows up front or leave manual front windows?
Personal preference. I don't miss them.

12.MSD ignition control with Petronix
Pertronix definitely, MSD doesn't do much on a stock engine.

13. Convert a/c to r134a or leave r12?
R134a, the swap cost will be returned the first time you need service.

14.Factory blackish carpet from World or custom black wool sewn in original pattern?
Factory-style gray speckle is available, it's hard to beat the original look.

15.Sisal mats
They shed crap. Carpet mats are better.

16.H4 headlamps?
Yes, and upgrade the wiring when you do the install. It was weak to start, now it's weak and 30 years old.

17.remount foglamps currently mounted on top of bumper (horrible) to under bumper?
Personally I'd lose them altogether.

18.alarm with lojack?
Personal choice, it's not needed where I live.

19.remove euro rear plate frame?
Not sure what you are talking about. Pic? There's no frame on the plate from the factory.

20.por 15 entire underside and inside of car when disassembled then weld all corners as coupe king suggests?
Can't hurt.

what should I not do from this list, at some point I will sell the car and know I won't get all my money but would love to get most of it back....

Like I said at the beginning...
 

Upset99

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On A/C

I recommend Duracool for the A/C. In usage, it is comprable to 134a in cost but you dont have to spend the money on the conversion. Just draw a vacuum and install. The best thing is that the compressor pressure drops significantly increasing life and your A/C blows VERY COLD.

Some people complain that it is is combustable since it is butane based but so is R12. On top of this, it is highly used in Europe and the USA and there has not been a case of explosion. Mechanics have to be aware of its usage.
 

dp

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Re: On A/C

Upset99 said:
I recommend Duracool for the A/C. In usage, it is comprable to 134a in cost but you dont have to spend the money on the conversion. Just draw a vacuum and install. The best thing is that the compressor pressure drops significantly increasing life and your A/C blows VERY COLD. Some people complain that it is is combustable since it is butane based but so is R12. On top of this, it is highly used in Europe and the USA and there has not been a case of explosion. Mechanics have to be aware of its usage.

but the epa outlaws its use for this type of application

What is the legal status of hydrocarbon refrigerants such as HC-12a® and DURACOOL®?
It has been illegal since July 13, 1995 to replace CFC-12 with the HC-12a® formulation that was submitted for SNAP review in any refrigeration or A/C application other than industrial process refrigeration. The same prohibition for OZ-12® took effect on April 18, 1994. Because DURACOOL 12a® has the same chemical composition as the HC-12a® formulation that was submitted for SNAP review (i.e., Hydrocarbon Blend B), DURACOOL 12a® is also subject to the same restrictions.
HC-12a®, as reformulated to meet DOT requirements, is not the same as Hydrocarbon Blend B and has not been submitted for SNAP review. OZ Technology is therefore prohibited from marketing this blend as a substitute for any ozone-depleting substance. In addition, any use of this blend as a substitute for CFC-12 or any other ozone-depleting chemical, in industrial process refrigeration or any other refrigeration or A/C end use, is prohibited under the Clean Air Act.

Since HC-12a®, as submitted for SNAP review, is chemically different from HC-12a®, as reformulated to meet DOT requirements, and since it has a different legal status under the Clean Air Act, users of any substance marketed as HC-12a® should be aware of which HC-12a® they have purchased.

Note that the Clean Air Act does not regulate the use of any of these hydrocarbon refrigerants when they are used as replacements for non-ozone-depleting chemicals such as HFC-134a. However, many states prohibit using flammable refrigerants in motor vehicles, regardless of which original refrigerant was used in the vehicle.

May hydrocarbon refrigerants be used to replace CFC-12, commonly referred to as "Freon® ," in cars?
No. It is illegal to use hydrocarbon refrigerants like HC-12a® and DURACOOL 12a® as substitutes for CFC-12 in automobile or truck air conditioning under any circumstances.
 

dang

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Re: On A/C

The conversion for R134a isn't all that hard to do. My advice to anyone dealing with a/c systems is this... If the R12 system is intact and working, or working with a leak that can be fixed easily, keep it original and have it fixed. If the fix costs more than you're willing to spend, convert to R134a. Each conversion seems to have different results as far as how well the system cools, but I've had good luck with it in the hot, fairly dry, Sacramento area.

Dan
 
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