Rear trunk trim piece

Gazz

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Has anyone made new the trim section that is at the rear of the trunk? I.e. the piece that traverses the the tail light housings and the bodywork.

I have my old one which I can use as a template. What is an ideal substitute for the, what appears to be, cardboard material of the original?

Thanks in advance.
 

Wes

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Thanks Wes but I want to have a go myself. Should be relatively easy

If you are looking at a DIY option using the original pigskin, which it sounds like you are. Have you considered using 3mm MDF as the backing? Not dissimilar properties to the original backing.
 

rsporsche

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Gazz, send me a PM with your email address and i will send you a pdf of an autocad drawing (full size) that you can print off at 1:1 on a large format printer and make the pieces. i made mine in 2 pieces and put them together and covered it with elephant skin.. i used waterproof panelboard ... but 3mm mdf should be fine.
 

autokunst

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calling @rsporsche
I believe Scott has the patterns...

I guess I was a bit late in my reply - Scott already beat me to it. :)
 
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deQuincey

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Has anyone made new the trim section that is at the rear of the trunk? I.e. the piece that traverses the the tail light housings and the bodywork.

I have my old one which I can use as a template. What is an ideal substitute for the, what appears to be, cardboard material of the original?

Thanks in advance.


you may recall i did this and. you even commented it, it is on the container


i can not find the rear trim section thread, though, but i used the same technique
believe me, do not use other material than stone cardboard, nothing will allow to bend and make corners like it
 

deQuincey

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found it,...it is all in here,

 

Stan

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I could not find thin enough MDW so I went with masonite.
It looked good when I finished.
I have a template somewhere...I moved since the last time I looked for it.
 

rsporsche

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Stan, no need to look for the template - i sent him the full scale pdf that i drew. masonite would work fine. thin plywood would work as well ... but flexible waterproof panel board, like what is used for door panels works great. i got some in 30" x 60"
 

dave v. in nc

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Scott, I'm just getting to the trunk part that you sent me the drawings for (thanks again)...where did you source the panel board?...and what did you use for "glue" at the 90 degree joint?
 

rsporsche

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Scott, I'm just getting to the trunk part that you sent me the drawings for (thanks again)...where did you source the panel board?...and what did you use for "glue" at the 90 degree joint?
Dave, i sourced the panel board from Keystonbros.com. i looked it up, its actually 39" x 61" - https://keystonbros.com/catalog/product/view/id/4884/s/black-panel-board-39-x-61/
the downside is that it is only sold commercially ... i bought it thru an upholstery company. closest location to you would either be Raliegh or Atlanta

its been 5 or so years since i made it. i really don't remember what glue i used. probably contact cement. then i taped the crap out of it (100%) both sides

for anybody who wants a copy of the panel drawing - full size, it is posted here - https://www.e9coupe.com/forum/threads/rear-trunk-interior-panel.32349/#post-265296
 
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deQuincey

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Scott, I'm just getting to the trunk part that you sent me the drawings for (thanks again)...where did you source the panel board?...and what did you use for "glue" at the 90 degree joint?

just follow the process here:


you use paper adhesive tape to position the two pieces at 90º, then you glue/seal the corner with white glue (the type that capenters use for wood), let it dry until it becomes transparent, then paint all the surface with latex and let it dry
finally apply impact glue to place the elephant skin over it

the rigidity of the joint is preserved by the elephant skin, it is 8 years since i did this
 

3nsahalee

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Hello-
FWIW-
this is a project that's been on my list for a long time and i'm leaning very strongly towards plastic for the core of my re-fab'ed trunk rear panel. having worked in the display industry for years, we used a lot of asst plastic sheets in custom fabrication. Sintra, trovicel, petg, abs, polycarbonates, etc.
one of Seattle's large plastics distributor always has bigger scraps/blems - may be the case in your nearby 'big-city' too, (or a local sign shop may have some excess stock to sell as well).
no need for seams with the large sheet size. i think a 3mm thickness would work nicely. they cut/file/sand/shape very well and can be easily heat shaped (for the subtle contours of the top piece), and the correct bonding agent will actually fuse the pieces and make joints permanent.


Thanks for the template!
Steve-o
 
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