Rear window adjustment

[Bmachine]

I was really dreading this, but I spent some time today trying to get through the age old window alignment issue for the rear windows.

I came away with two observations:

1. As suggested by another member on the forum (I apologize for not remembering who), one really good way to do this is to slightly loosen all of the 12 bolts that affect the window position, raise it almost to the top and then wiggle the whole assembly until the window sits comfortably inside the guide channel. Then continue lifting it all the way up, making sure it lands where it is supposed to be. Then tightening all the bolts bolts in that position.

2. I noticed on mine (and I think this has happened to other people as well) that, over time, as the window gets out of alignment and leans too far inward, as it rises up it actually crushes the inside wall of the upper channel towards the middle, thereby making it impossible for the window to go all the way to the top. So it seems to be really important to change that window channel to a new one as quickly as possible.

 

[Cornishman]

Did you replace the window channel with the same style rigid one, if so do you just force it to bend to the shape of the chrome channel it sits in? I assumed it was flexible, so bought a flexible window channel, then found out it was rigid, but like yours came out broken at each the place each clip was positioned.

 

[Bmachine]

I have not replaced mine yet. I was focused on getting the windows to align properly after taking the whole assembly apart and replacing the window motors. I’m slowly working my way up to replacing the channels

 

[bavbob]

There is a flexible channel, otherwise identical to OEM and fits nicely, from Steele Rubber products. Part number is posted somewhere on this forum. I have some left but unfortunately, the number is not listed on the bag.

 

[Bmachine]

There is a flexible channel, otherwise identical to OEM and fits nicely, from Steele Rubber products. Part number is posted somewhere on this forum. I have some left but unfortunately, the number is not listed on the bag.

I remember reading that. I thought I had it bookmarked but I did not. I’ve been looking all over with no success so far

 

[bavbob]

https://e9coupe.com/forum/threads/channel-felt-replacement-product.31564/

 

[Bmachine]

Ah, perfect. Thank you Bob!

 

[Gazz]

Man is this opening old wounds! I did so much on my car. A lot of it is rewarding, much of it is straight forward, some of it is difficult, some of it is infuriating, and then there's the windows. Getting them to align was by far the most vocabulary inducing job.

The blue books are a wonderful source of assistance - Remove windows. Put them back.

I suggest that before anyone removes anything mark all of the current positions and take pictures.

 

[Cornishman]

Guys, I need some help here please.
On the drivers side of my car (RHD) the front drivers door glass overlapped the rear glass at the bottom, but just aligned with the edge of the rear glass at the top. So either the front, or the rear, perhaps both needed adjusting.
I pulled both front and rear apart, added new rubber channel to both windows, reassembled. By this time every bolt and screw had been loosened or removed. I had the entire rear window out - about 10 times ***@@!
Now,
The front glass hits the rear window lower chrome when I close the door. This was ok before I took it apart.
The two panes overlap heaps at the base and barely at the top, like when I started.

I tried the approach to make everything lose, adjust, then tighten. No real improvement.

I fear my new channel is too deep (thick) so the glass now sits further away from the frame.
Before I dismantle it, again, any suggestions?

My new channel is all rubber, held in with the same 4 spring clips I took off the old, probably original, window channel. That channel had steel in it, it failed when I removed it, so no going back.

All ideas gratefully received. I’m in the U.K. so need to source channel etc locally.

 

[Cornishman]

I found these threads, they are all useful, but I am missing something big here.

https://e9coupe.com/forum/threads/window-seal-fitment.40135/#post-348023

https://e9coupe.com/forum/threads/looking-for-a-window-wisperer-manual-front-windows.34859/

I also measured the different channels thickness, they are all similar but the all rubber one which I fitted takes a little effort to be as thin, so perhaps it is responsible for 1 or 2 mm extra thickness. I think my problem is more like 4mm + then window angle adjustment, to get front and rear windows parallel.

 

[Ian C]

I recently refreshed seals velvets and channel (w&n supplied) in all windows, and it is like herding cats to get the alignments right. I concentrated on getting door windows in alignment with top of door seal, and quarter vent as far forward as possible, sliding freely by hand, then adjusting rear window to suit. There is a lot of adjustment with the rear glass when the 2 rubbers that hold it at the bottom are freed. That sets the overlap and edge parallel, then you have the cassette to position. For me it was just a time consuming repetitive cycle of adjustments. Most adjustments caused at least one other point to be readjusted.

 

[Gazz]

I need a drink, that really strong Talisker that kicks you in the guts and momentarily helps you to forget your nightmares.

 

[Marc-M]

Guys, I need some help here please.
On the drivers side of my car (RHD) the front drivers door glass overlapped the rear glass at the bottom, but just aligned with the edge of the rear glass at the top. So either the front, or the rear, perhaps both needed adjusting.
I pulled both front and rear apart, added new rubber channel to both windows, reassembled. By this time every bolt and screw had been loosened or removed. I had the entire rear window out - about 10 times ***@@!
Now,
The front glass hits the rear window lower chrome when I close the door. This was ok before I took it apart.
The two panes overlap heaps at the base and barely at the top, like when I started.

I tried the approach to make everything lose, adjust, then tighten. No real improvement.

I fear my new channel is too deep (thick) so the glass now sits further away from the frame.
Before I dismantle it, again, any suggestions?

My new channel is all rubber, held in with the same 4 spring clips I took off the old, probably original, window channel. That channel had steel in it, it failed when I removed it, so no going back.

All ideas gratefully received. I’m in the U.K. so need to source channel etc locally.

This was a problem I had where the door window edge did not align up with the rear window overlap, so in essence the overlap of the windows was not constant- this caused a few problems - 1) looks terrible 2) issues with the glass getting too close to the door chrome trim and fowling it - this was the case before I restored the car.

however, getting this constant overlap is fun and takes a few times to sort.



I have managed it - but to get both sides with the same overlap is near on impossible - but getting each side constant overlap is doable.



OK - so this is how I did it.



you need an adjustable set sq. -

see

Unique Adjustable Set Squares

Unique Adjustable set squares available in 8" & 10" U.20CBI and U.25CBI made from hard wearing 3mm acrylic

www.graphicsdirect.co.uk

With both the door window and rear window up - place the set sq. on the solid rubber rear window mount (this is your reference point) with the adjustable side of the set sq. set flush along the door window angle.

see picture for primary location

this picture below (I am rubbish at pictures) shows where to put the adjustable set sq. and align it to the front window angle. THE REFERANCE POINT

OK - so this is how I did it.



you need an adjustable set sq. -

see

Unique Adjustable Set Squares

Unique Adjustable set squares available in 8" & 10" U.20CBI and U.25CBI made from hard wearing 3mm acrylic

www.graphicsdirect.co.uk

With both the door window and rear window up - place the set sq. on the solid rubber rear window mount (this is your reference point) with the adjustable side of the set sq. set flush along the door window angle.

see picture for primary location

 

[Cornishman]

Thanks Marc
Not sure I follow the entire process, but will have another go at the weekend.

 

[jefflit]

Revisiting this thread.

This isn't my first rodeo. I've adjust these a few times before but I can't get one to align. The glass tilts just a tad too far into the car so that it doesn't seat into the fuzzy channel at the top without a bit of assistance along the way up. I removed the entire cassette multiple times and don't see anything wrong. The glass is quite floppy when not in the car -- it is only held by the two plastic guides and the arm coming from the gear. And the plastic guides are very low on the glass so there is lots of room for the glass to tilt in and out. When the cassette is bolted to the car, I've messed with the two upper adjusters with not much effect and with the bottom of the cassette entirely loose I can shove it in towards the inside of the car until the track hits the inner wheel well but it still isn't enough to tilt the glass out far enough at the top.

I even removed the trim on inside and out. With the trims off, the glass is fairly floppy until it starts to enter the fuzzy channel at the rear. But even then, if I slowly lift, guiding it into the rear channel, even if I pull the bottom of the cassette in as far as possible, the glass is tilted too far in at the top by 8mm or so, just enough to hit the inside edge of the fuzzy and not seat into it. If I push the bottom of the cassette outwards the problem is much worse.

What am I missing?

 

[HB Chris]

I have found that the two upper adjusters are key. I had loosened them on one window and had this issue so on the other window I didn’t touch them.