Thanks all for your attention and the kind comments. Car is sold, will be picked up tomorrow by the new owner. He's a PNW guy, and an enthusiast, but new to e9's. I'm sure you'll be hearing from him, I think he's been lurking here for a while.
Cheers,
Tony
For sale -- 1970 BMW 2800 CS
I’ve been the caretaker of this car since 2002, and truly thought I’d have it for life, but circumstances have changed and I must part with my blue baby.
The VIN of the car is 2270050, making it the 50th manual transmission car made for the US market in 1970. According to the BMW Mobile Tradition archive, the construction of the car was completed on January 13th, 1970, and it was of course imported by Hoffman Motors in New York. It was first licensed in Yakima, Washington on October 29, 1970. I have the original application for title and registration.
As best I can establish, I am the 4th owner of the car. I have put only about 6,000 miles on the car in 6 years, and the owner immediately prior me had the car for 14 years and put only about 18,000 miles on the car. He kept the car garaged throughout his ownership, and I have as well. The current mileage is 100,197 total miles, which can be confirmed as original by reviewing repair receipts and bills of sale.
Although I don't consider it a show car, it has received a couple of awards -- a 2nd place People's Choice at the 2004 Columbia County Oktoberfest car show, and Best of Corral at the 2006 Portland Historics. These were both judged against other BMW's. Also, at the 2005 Sunriver Exotic Car show, it was named "The Car I Want After the Divorce" by the Sunriver Women's Club (no kidding!)
I will now proceed to overwhelm you with details so you can empathize with my wife’s view of my obsession…
Interior
This is a very original car, with only minor evidence of “Prior Owner Disease.” The interior is not cut up with speaker holes. The dash is not drilled with aftermarket switches or gauges. There are two small 4.5” speakers in the front kick panels, and an 80’s vintage Pioneer radio. It is a shaft style radio, so the console panel has not been cut and can easily accept a period Becker or Blaupunkt. I never really listened to music in this car, so I just left the Pioneer in place. The rear deck is untouched, and the door panels and rear side panels are uncut and in good condition. The passenger door panel is missing the lower thin chrome bead. The door pulls and armrests are good.
The lower dash is in good shape, including the lower cover panels. The wood is in good shape, but the finish is dry and starting to peel slightly at the corners. The wood could be refinished and would look great. The upper dash is cracked, and needs repair. I have a spare upper dash I bought from another e9’er that is included in the sale. It was uncracked – unfortunately FedEx failed to keep it that way. At least there’s a spare to send for repair so the car doesn’t have to be torn apart while waiting. I have a lightweight carpet dash cover that hides most all the flaws. The center console, the A/C version, is solid and in fair cosmetic shape. The rear window switches and the blanks for the front switches are losing their coating of vacuum formed chrome. I have some spare window switches I will include in the sale.
The car currently has an original BMW M1 steering wheel installed. I will reinstall the original wood rim “bus” wheel before the sale. The M1 wheel is available at extra cost. I also have some other period steering wheels which may interest the new owner.
The front seats were recovered in vinyl at some point, and are showing some wear. The headrests are still leather. I have some inexpensive sheepskin covers over the seats, awaiting the time when I could have all the seats recovered in leather. The rear seats need recovering as well, the stitching on the seams has dry rotted and the leather is very dry. I’ve poured on the conditioner, it hasn’t had much effect. The rear armrests are in decent shape, the leather on them seems to age better than the seats. The car was equipped with fixed three point belts for the front passengers, AKA “spaghetti belts” that had the shoulder strap anchored behind the rear seats. I removed these and installed inertia reel lap belts. They’re much more convenient, and I feel safer and more securely strapped in with them than I ever did with the long fixed belts. And I can reach the switches on the dashboard while driving! The original rear “Klippan” brand lap belts are still in place.
The rear part of the headliner is pretty good, with no tears and no big stains or discoloration. The small front headliner panel and sun visors are in need of repair or replacement. The carpet is original and in good condition. It shows a little wear from the years, but it’s not badly faded or worn and torn.
This car has manual front windows, and power rears. The fronts roll up and down easily, although I think they need a little adjustment as they don’t roll down quite all the way to the top of the doors. Both rear windows work well, I cleaned and lubricated the guide tracks and cleaned and lubed the lift motors. The windshield wipers also work well, the linkage and motor were removed, cleaned and lubricated. All the switches on the dash work, as do the switch levers on the steering column for the signals, wipers and high beam lights. The horns work. The tachometer works and seems accurate. The speedometer works and is rather optimistic, reading about 4 miles an hour fast at 50 MPH and getting further off as you go faster. The odometer and trip odometer are functional, but readings are likely affected by the speedy speedo. The clock works, but runs at about half speed. The gas gauge works, including the low fuel light, and seems pretty accurate. The water temperature gauge reads about 20% too high, as confirmed with a thermometer in the overflow tank and an infrared thermometer on the radiator and water hoses.
The heater and blower fan work, and all the vent sliders and associated vents function correctly. The air conditioning does not work, as the compressor was removed. I had plans to update to a smaller, more efficient compressor from a later BMW. I still have the big York piston compressor, it is nearly new, the prior owner had it replaced when getting the A/C serviced a few years before I bought the car.
Mechanical
The original engine is still in place, although it was rebuilt when the car had approximately 84,500 miles, due to a cracked head. I have receipts from the prior owner for the engine work, showing all parts replaced and the work done. It was an extensive rebuild, and the engine runs like new and is dry and leak free. Shortly after I bought the car, I had the Zenith carburetors rebuilt by a local expert. I also replaced the points with a Pertronix Ignitor kit, and literally have not had to touch the timing since. The original 5 blade fan and fan clutch have been replaced with a 9 blade fan and viscous clutch from a later BMW. The car has had at least annual fluid changes, including oil, transmission, differential and cooling.
The original ZF 4 speed is also still in place. It works fine, but it’s a bit noisy, the shifter is a bit vague, and it seeps oil despite all efforts to stem the flow. The input and output shaft seals don’t leak, but the case has a bunch of little covers and they all conspire to keep the transmission well coated in a protective layer of 90wt. I will include a good used Getrag 265 five speed and bell housing in the sale. The clutch was replaced when the engine was rebuilt.
The differential is a 3.45:1 with factory 25% limited slip. I replaced the output flange seals shortly after I bought the car. The driveshaft and u-joints are sound and the center bearing appears to be relatively new. I think it may be in the list of parts replaced during the engine rebuild.
The rear brakes (drums on a 2800CS) were rebuilt completely by the PO shortly before I bought the car. I replaced the front calipers and rotors, and installed braided stainless flex lines. The brakes are strong and reliable.
The car sits on a set of Carl Nelson’s original lowering springs, and has Bilstein Sport shocks. It has factory front and rear anti-sway bars, with fresh end links with urethane bushings. The front steering wear components have all been replaced with new, with the exception of the large bushings that locate the front of the “wishbones” to the subframe. I have a new set of rear subframe mounts that will be included in the sale. The car steers smooth, tracks straight and solid and has no shimmy or vibration at all.
Wheels are 7x14” basket weave alloys with 185/70-14 Dunlop D60-A2 tires. The wheels are Enkei brand, I believe. They were installed by one of the prior owners. The spare wheel is the original e9 alloy, with what appears to be an original Continental tire. From the condition, it may never have been used on the car.
The exhaust is not original. The original exhaust was on the car when I bought it, and it was worn out. Because I had it handy, I substituted the center resonator from a Euro e12, and installed a small Magnaflow muffler at the rear. I had plans to install original parts at some point, but the exhaust sounds great! It’s not overly loud, and it has a nice mellow tone like a 60’s Jag under acceleration.
Body
Originally bought by a man in Yakima, Washington, this car has lived in the northwest US ever since, and this has been good for it. I often opine there is no such thing as a rust-free e9, but this car is very clean. There are no signs of rust or cracks in the rear shock towers. Also clean and with no evidence of rust are the doors, rockers, around the windows, the rear quarters, the rear taillight panel, trunk lid, hood, front fender skins, front or rear valances, or the area around the fuel tank. The driver side front floor has been patched with steel (I did this; all the rusty metal was cut out), and the spare tire well has a couple small holes patched with fiberglass. It looks to me like there have been some repairs in the upper firewall below the wiper motor, and possibly in the driver’s front shock tower. There have been no signs of leaks in the cowl or firewall. The inner structure of the front fenders has been kept clean of accumulated dirt and the drains have been checked regularly.
In 2002, the car was hit in the rear, resulting in minor damage to the body. The bumper took most of the hit. At the recommendation of some local car-guy friends, I decided to have the car fully repainted by a local shop. This was not the best decision I have ever made. Unknown to me, the owner of the shop was in the process of converting his business to focus on insurance repairs for newer cars, and although he expressed enthusiasm about taking on my coupe, it soon faded. My work at the time had me out of town more than I was home, and it was about 9 months from the time I delivered the car that I finally got it back. The paint work is what I would describe as “10 foot.” Actually, it’s more like “5 foot”, but I’m picky. The main issue is evidence of poor pre-paint preparation, and contamination in the clear coat. Honestly, most people that see the car tell me I’m being way too picky, and they think the car looks great, but I feel like I need to be honest with potential buyers.
The color of the car was originally Baikal Blau. Now it is Almost Baikal Blau. The car had been repainted at some point prior to my ownership. That paint job did not match the original color exactly, and the owner of the body shop who painted it for me decided to match the existing color instead of using the correct factory shade. It’s a very pretty color, just not quite correct. According to the body shop owner, it’s got a bit more red in it than original Baikal.
Because he was having trouble sourcing a replacement bumper, the shop owner had the original repaired and re-chromed. The repairs are not perfect, but most people don’t notice. I installed new metal channels for the rubber trim from Carl Nelson to replace the rusty originals. During the repaint, the beltline trim was removed, the anodizing stripped, the aluminum polished and powder coated clear. This has held up OK, although if I had it to do again I’d just leave the aluminum uncoated and polish and wax it once a year.
The door seals are in good shape, and I replaced the vertical seals on the rear windows a couple years ago with parts from Carl Nelson. The window channels and other seals around the windows are original and showing their age. The seals and lock strips on the windshield and rear window are good (the rear is new, replaced during the paint work). The trunk seal is good. The bumper rubber is good, and the rubber trim on the bumper ends is new.
The tool box in the trunk is in fair shape. The set of tools is very nearly complete, missing only the original feeler gauges. The smaller red screwdriver is a bit rusty but could be re-chromed. There are some cracks in the toolbox case. I have two other toolboxes that can be used for parts that I will include with the sale.
The vinyl covered floor panels in the trunk are good, as are the trunk lid liner panels. The plastic fender covers are in pretty good shape, having only some small chips and cracks. The storage box is in good shape. The cover panel for the rear lights needs to be repaired. The “elephant skin” vinyl on it could be removed and applied to new fiberboard.
The front, side and hood grills are all in good shape. The driver side front turn lens is cracked, this early car has the smaller Euro lenses and I’ve been keeping an eye out for a good used one. I have some spare front and rear side clearance lamps I will include with the sale.
The front and rear Roundels have been replaced with the currently available replacement parts. I have the original Roundels, they need to be restored. There are instructions somewhere on the board here that tell how to do this with Testor’s model paint. The C-pillar roundels have been replaced with vintage style BMW Motorsport roundels (check the pictures of Paul Cain’s 3.8CSi to see what these look like). These are held on with adhesive, so they can easily be removed to install originals. I have two sets of original cloisonné roundels with minor damage, and a new set of the currently available plastic replacements that I’ll include in the sale. The 2800CS trunklid script is in pretty good shape. As far as I know these are completely NLA, I’ve been watching the classified ads for spares but so far no luck.
Electrical
In general, all the electrical components of the car are functional – lights, wipers, fans, windows, signals, gauges, etc. I have mentioned some specific quirks or exceptions in the details above.
The original, non-fused wiring harness for the headlamps went up in smoke after I accidentally swapped a feed and ground when installing new headlamps. I fabricated a replacement harness with upgraded wire, relays and fuses – no more fireworks shows, ever. The car has Hella E-code headlamps, H4 low beam and H1 high beams.
The rear lamps are the early style with red turn lenses rather than amber. This is correct for this early production car.
Sorry about the picture quality; our "good" digital camera was broken last year, and since we've been using a cheap Kodak. Also, the car is not too clean right now, it's been in the garage for about a year and I just pulled it out last weekend and quickly washed it. The interior is dusty.
So you ask, what’s the price? Well, how much is an e9 worth? It’s our favorite posting topic! :lol:
I am offering it here to the board for $12,000 or near offer. I believe the car is worth more, but hopefully it can go to someone who will appreciate and enjoy it as I have, and that is worth something to me. If I don’t find a buyer here, I’ll take it to eBay in a few weeks, with a somewhat higher reserve. I am also considering taking it to auction in Seattle in November.
This car is mechanically sound, cosmetically very presentable, and would make a great driver as is. If you decide to go the restoration route, I believe this car would save you thousands over a not much cheaper car that is less complete, less original and less well loved.
The car is located in the Portland, Oregon area.
I'm sure I forgot something that someone will want to know, so don't hesitate with questions. Thanks for looking -- Tony
PS: I just remembered, I've got a CSL-style ducktail spoiler, one of Dan Koturov's reproductions, that I'll include in the sale. I could probably be talked into selling it outright as well.
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The 2800CS badge was not installed in this pic, it is now.
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The storage bin and toolbox are not currently installed in the car.
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Cheers,
Tony
For sale -- 1970 BMW 2800 CS
I’ve been the caretaker of this car since 2002, and truly thought I’d have it for life, but circumstances have changed and I must part with my blue baby.
The VIN of the car is 2270050, making it the 50th manual transmission car made for the US market in 1970. According to the BMW Mobile Tradition archive, the construction of the car was completed on January 13th, 1970, and it was of course imported by Hoffman Motors in New York. It was first licensed in Yakima, Washington on October 29, 1970. I have the original application for title and registration.
As best I can establish, I am the 4th owner of the car. I have put only about 6,000 miles on the car in 6 years, and the owner immediately prior me had the car for 14 years and put only about 18,000 miles on the car. He kept the car garaged throughout his ownership, and I have as well. The current mileage is 100,197 total miles, which can be confirmed as original by reviewing repair receipts and bills of sale.
Although I don't consider it a show car, it has received a couple of awards -- a 2nd place People's Choice at the 2004 Columbia County Oktoberfest car show, and Best of Corral at the 2006 Portland Historics. These were both judged against other BMW's. Also, at the 2005 Sunriver Exotic Car show, it was named "The Car I Want After the Divorce" by the Sunriver Women's Club (no kidding!)
I will now proceed to overwhelm you with details so you can empathize with my wife’s view of my obsession…
Interior
This is a very original car, with only minor evidence of “Prior Owner Disease.” The interior is not cut up with speaker holes. The dash is not drilled with aftermarket switches or gauges. There are two small 4.5” speakers in the front kick panels, and an 80’s vintage Pioneer radio. It is a shaft style radio, so the console panel has not been cut and can easily accept a period Becker or Blaupunkt. I never really listened to music in this car, so I just left the Pioneer in place. The rear deck is untouched, and the door panels and rear side panels are uncut and in good condition. The passenger door panel is missing the lower thin chrome bead. The door pulls and armrests are good.
The lower dash is in good shape, including the lower cover panels. The wood is in good shape, but the finish is dry and starting to peel slightly at the corners. The wood could be refinished and would look great. The upper dash is cracked, and needs repair. I have a spare upper dash I bought from another e9’er that is included in the sale. It was uncracked – unfortunately FedEx failed to keep it that way. At least there’s a spare to send for repair so the car doesn’t have to be torn apart while waiting. I have a lightweight carpet dash cover that hides most all the flaws. The center console, the A/C version, is solid and in fair cosmetic shape. The rear window switches and the blanks for the front switches are losing their coating of vacuum formed chrome. I have some spare window switches I will include in the sale.
The car currently has an original BMW M1 steering wheel installed. I will reinstall the original wood rim “bus” wheel before the sale. The M1 wheel is available at extra cost. I also have some other period steering wheels which may interest the new owner.
The front seats were recovered in vinyl at some point, and are showing some wear. The headrests are still leather. I have some inexpensive sheepskin covers over the seats, awaiting the time when I could have all the seats recovered in leather. The rear seats need recovering as well, the stitching on the seams has dry rotted and the leather is very dry. I’ve poured on the conditioner, it hasn’t had much effect. The rear armrests are in decent shape, the leather on them seems to age better than the seats. The car was equipped with fixed three point belts for the front passengers, AKA “spaghetti belts” that had the shoulder strap anchored behind the rear seats. I removed these and installed inertia reel lap belts. They’re much more convenient, and I feel safer and more securely strapped in with them than I ever did with the long fixed belts. And I can reach the switches on the dashboard while driving! The original rear “Klippan” brand lap belts are still in place.
The rear part of the headliner is pretty good, with no tears and no big stains or discoloration. The small front headliner panel and sun visors are in need of repair or replacement. The carpet is original and in good condition. It shows a little wear from the years, but it’s not badly faded or worn and torn.
This car has manual front windows, and power rears. The fronts roll up and down easily, although I think they need a little adjustment as they don’t roll down quite all the way to the top of the doors. Both rear windows work well, I cleaned and lubricated the guide tracks and cleaned and lubed the lift motors. The windshield wipers also work well, the linkage and motor were removed, cleaned and lubricated. All the switches on the dash work, as do the switch levers on the steering column for the signals, wipers and high beam lights. The horns work. The tachometer works and seems accurate. The speedometer works and is rather optimistic, reading about 4 miles an hour fast at 50 MPH and getting further off as you go faster. The odometer and trip odometer are functional, but readings are likely affected by the speedy speedo. The clock works, but runs at about half speed. The gas gauge works, including the low fuel light, and seems pretty accurate. The water temperature gauge reads about 20% too high, as confirmed with a thermometer in the overflow tank and an infrared thermometer on the radiator and water hoses.
The heater and blower fan work, and all the vent sliders and associated vents function correctly. The air conditioning does not work, as the compressor was removed. I had plans to update to a smaller, more efficient compressor from a later BMW. I still have the big York piston compressor, it is nearly new, the prior owner had it replaced when getting the A/C serviced a few years before I bought the car.
Mechanical
The original engine is still in place, although it was rebuilt when the car had approximately 84,500 miles, due to a cracked head. I have receipts from the prior owner for the engine work, showing all parts replaced and the work done. It was an extensive rebuild, and the engine runs like new and is dry and leak free. Shortly after I bought the car, I had the Zenith carburetors rebuilt by a local expert. I also replaced the points with a Pertronix Ignitor kit, and literally have not had to touch the timing since. The original 5 blade fan and fan clutch have been replaced with a 9 blade fan and viscous clutch from a later BMW. The car has had at least annual fluid changes, including oil, transmission, differential and cooling.
The original ZF 4 speed is also still in place. It works fine, but it’s a bit noisy, the shifter is a bit vague, and it seeps oil despite all efforts to stem the flow. The input and output shaft seals don’t leak, but the case has a bunch of little covers and they all conspire to keep the transmission well coated in a protective layer of 90wt. I will include a good used Getrag 265 five speed and bell housing in the sale. The clutch was replaced when the engine was rebuilt.
The differential is a 3.45:1 with factory 25% limited slip. I replaced the output flange seals shortly after I bought the car. The driveshaft and u-joints are sound and the center bearing appears to be relatively new. I think it may be in the list of parts replaced during the engine rebuild.
The rear brakes (drums on a 2800CS) were rebuilt completely by the PO shortly before I bought the car. I replaced the front calipers and rotors, and installed braided stainless flex lines. The brakes are strong and reliable.
The car sits on a set of Carl Nelson’s original lowering springs, and has Bilstein Sport shocks. It has factory front and rear anti-sway bars, with fresh end links with urethane bushings. The front steering wear components have all been replaced with new, with the exception of the large bushings that locate the front of the “wishbones” to the subframe. I have a new set of rear subframe mounts that will be included in the sale. The car steers smooth, tracks straight and solid and has no shimmy or vibration at all.
Wheels are 7x14” basket weave alloys with 185/70-14 Dunlop D60-A2 tires. The wheels are Enkei brand, I believe. They were installed by one of the prior owners. The spare wheel is the original e9 alloy, with what appears to be an original Continental tire. From the condition, it may never have been used on the car.
The exhaust is not original. The original exhaust was on the car when I bought it, and it was worn out. Because I had it handy, I substituted the center resonator from a Euro e12, and installed a small Magnaflow muffler at the rear. I had plans to install original parts at some point, but the exhaust sounds great! It’s not overly loud, and it has a nice mellow tone like a 60’s Jag under acceleration.
Body
Originally bought by a man in Yakima, Washington, this car has lived in the northwest US ever since, and this has been good for it. I often opine there is no such thing as a rust-free e9, but this car is very clean. There are no signs of rust or cracks in the rear shock towers. Also clean and with no evidence of rust are the doors, rockers, around the windows, the rear quarters, the rear taillight panel, trunk lid, hood, front fender skins, front or rear valances, or the area around the fuel tank. The driver side front floor has been patched with steel (I did this; all the rusty metal was cut out), and the spare tire well has a couple small holes patched with fiberglass. It looks to me like there have been some repairs in the upper firewall below the wiper motor, and possibly in the driver’s front shock tower. There have been no signs of leaks in the cowl or firewall. The inner structure of the front fenders has been kept clean of accumulated dirt and the drains have been checked regularly.
In 2002, the car was hit in the rear, resulting in minor damage to the body. The bumper took most of the hit. At the recommendation of some local car-guy friends, I decided to have the car fully repainted by a local shop. This was not the best decision I have ever made. Unknown to me, the owner of the shop was in the process of converting his business to focus on insurance repairs for newer cars, and although he expressed enthusiasm about taking on my coupe, it soon faded. My work at the time had me out of town more than I was home, and it was about 9 months from the time I delivered the car that I finally got it back. The paint work is what I would describe as “10 foot.” Actually, it’s more like “5 foot”, but I’m picky. The main issue is evidence of poor pre-paint preparation, and contamination in the clear coat. Honestly, most people that see the car tell me I’m being way too picky, and they think the car looks great, but I feel like I need to be honest with potential buyers.
The color of the car was originally Baikal Blau. Now it is Almost Baikal Blau. The car had been repainted at some point prior to my ownership. That paint job did not match the original color exactly, and the owner of the body shop who painted it for me decided to match the existing color instead of using the correct factory shade. It’s a very pretty color, just not quite correct. According to the body shop owner, it’s got a bit more red in it than original Baikal.
Because he was having trouble sourcing a replacement bumper, the shop owner had the original repaired and re-chromed. The repairs are not perfect, but most people don’t notice. I installed new metal channels for the rubber trim from Carl Nelson to replace the rusty originals. During the repaint, the beltline trim was removed, the anodizing stripped, the aluminum polished and powder coated clear. This has held up OK, although if I had it to do again I’d just leave the aluminum uncoated and polish and wax it once a year.
The door seals are in good shape, and I replaced the vertical seals on the rear windows a couple years ago with parts from Carl Nelson. The window channels and other seals around the windows are original and showing their age. The seals and lock strips on the windshield and rear window are good (the rear is new, replaced during the paint work). The trunk seal is good. The bumper rubber is good, and the rubber trim on the bumper ends is new.
The tool box in the trunk is in fair shape. The set of tools is very nearly complete, missing only the original feeler gauges. The smaller red screwdriver is a bit rusty but could be re-chromed. There are some cracks in the toolbox case. I have two other toolboxes that can be used for parts that I will include with the sale.
The vinyl covered floor panels in the trunk are good, as are the trunk lid liner panels. The plastic fender covers are in pretty good shape, having only some small chips and cracks. The storage box is in good shape. The cover panel for the rear lights needs to be repaired. The “elephant skin” vinyl on it could be removed and applied to new fiberboard.
The front, side and hood grills are all in good shape. The driver side front turn lens is cracked, this early car has the smaller Euro lenses and I’ve been keeping an eye out for a good used one. I have some spare front and rear side clearance lamps I will include with the sale.
The front and rear Roundels have been replaced with the currently available replacement parts. I have the original Roundels, they need to be restored. There are instructions somewhere on the board here that tell how to do this with Testor’s model paint. The C-pillar roundels have been replaced with vintage style BMW Motorsport roundels (check the pictures of Paul Cain’s 3.8CSi to see what these look like). These are held on with adhesive, so they can easily be removed to install originals. I have two sets of original cloisonné roundels with minor damage, and a new set of the currently available plastic replacements that I’ll include in the sale. The 2800CS trunklid script is in pretty good shape. As far as I know these are completely NLA, I’ve been watching the classified ads for spares but so far no luck.
Electrical
In general, all the electrical components of the car are functional – lights, wipers, fans, windows, signals, gauges, etc. I have mentioned some specific quirks or exceptions in the details above.
The original, non-fused wiring harness for the headlamps went up in smoke after I accidentally swapped a feed and ground when installing new headlamps. I fabricated a replacement harness with upgraded wire, relays and fuses – no more fireworks shows, ever. The car has Hella E-code headlamps, H4 low beam and H1 high beams.
The rear lamps are the early style with red turn lenses rather than amber. This is correct for this early production car.
Sorry about the picture quality; our "good" digital camera was broken last year, and since we've been using a cheap Kodak. Also, the car is not too clean right now, it's been in the garage for about a year and I just pulled it out last weekend and quickly washed it. The interior is dusty.
So you ask, what’s the price? Well, how much is an e9 worth? It’s our favorite posting topic! :lol:
I am offering it here to the board for $12,000 or near offer. I believe the car is worth more, but hopefully it can go to someone who will appreciate and enjoy it as I have, and that is worth something to me. If I don’t find a buyer here, I’ll take it to eBay in a few weeks, with a somewhat higher reserve. I am also considering taking it to auction in Seattle in November.
This car is mechanically sound, cosmetically very presentable, and would make a great driver as is. If you decide to go the restoration route, I believe this car would save you thousands over a not much cheaper car that is less complete, less original and less well loved.
The car is located in the Portland, Oregon area.
I'm sure I forgot something that someone will want to know, so don't hesitate with questions. Thanks for looking -- Tony
PS: I just remembered, I've got a CSL-style ducktail spoiler, one of Dan Koturov's reproductions, that I'll include in the sale. I could probably be talked into selling it outright as well.
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The 2800CS badge was not installed in this pic, it is now.
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The storage bin and toolbox are not currently installed in the car.
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