Sometimes turning the key will do nothing

[pmansson]

Recently I have had the issue of nothing happening when I turn the ignition key.
A few mins later it will react and start.
Fresh battery, good ground, new starter etc etc.
Not even a small click to be heard.

I have read about people changing their ignition lock, but don´t remember the reasons behind it.

Anybody else experienced my syndrome....?

 

[pmansson]

Thank you very much.
Is the switch easily removed, so that I can get it on a work table, and carefully punch the indents/crimps with a suitable tool and light hammer ?

 

[pmansson]

I notice that you can buy either just the switch, or the complete switch, contact and lock.
If I change just the switch, is there another part of the equation which is likely to break down the road?
As a first option, I will do as suggested with the switch. If getting it out is 3/4 of the way to changing it all, a sensible option might be to do that. New key will not be the same as for the door, but this is less important as I never lock the doors anyway.
All input well received....
Thanks

 

[MMercury]

Recently I have had the issue of nothing happening when I turn the ignition key.
A few mins later it will react and start.
Fresh battery, good ground, new starter etc etc.
Not even a small click to be heard.

I have read about people changing their ignition lock, but don´t remember the reasons behind it.

Anybody else experienced my syndrome....?

Others may disagree, but I have found the issue to be related mostly to the switch and not the lock.

The switch is a compression fitted affair. Over time, it can wear internally. The switch has some small springs that maintain pressure on specific electrical contacts. As with many switches that are internally spring-loaded, springs can loose tension over time. As grease dries out (think old electric window motor grease) internals do not slide as they once did and the switch tends to wear even more. Constant spring tension is also maintained by the switch housing, so that if the housing becomes loose, the internal spring tension may be reduced. When things become too sloppy, you get intermittent contact and voila - the switch fails.

Examine the switch pictured below and you may note the small indent or crimp (away from the wires). There are a few of these crimps and they can become loose. In fact, I have seen switches that were so loose that the entire wiring system falls out on any rough road. Remove the shrouding around your steering column to expose the switch and and closely examine it while you move the key on and off. You may see the looseness to which I refer. Often, you can preemptively cure the issue, by carefully snugging up or re-crimping the metal portion of the switch.

Of course, switches fail for other reasons too. This includes housings that actually crack or break or contacts that wear or corrode. Some malfunctioning switches can be resurrected by disassembly, re-greasing the moving parts, and a bit of ingenuity in keeping the switch compressed.

There have been several posts on this issue.

hth

http://www.e9coupe.com/forum/showthread.php?t=5242

 

[MMercury]

I notice that you can buy either just the switch, or the complete switch, contact and lock.
If I change just the switch, is there another part of the equation which is likely to break down the road?
As a first option, I will do as suggested with the switch. If getting it out is 3/4 of the way to changing it all, a sensible option might be to do that. New key will not be the same as for the door, but this is less important as I never lock the doors anyway.
All input well received....
Thanks

The switch is the easiest thing to replace and is the most likely problem, from what you described. If you look at the diagram, the switch (No 7) does not involve a new key or lock assembly. So removal of the switch does not necessarily involve new locks or keys.

The only thing that holds the switch in place is a tiny grub screw. In the pictured switch (above) there is an "ear" at the opposite end from the wires. That is where the grub screw fits. I believe it is just a regular slotted head so a small slotted screwdriver is all that is required for removal. Unfortunately, the screw is easy to drop and lose in the carpeting. (A magnet on hand is a good idea.)

Again, before replacing anything, check for looseness. If things are loose, try pinching things together (temporarily) with your fingers. If things improve and starting difficulty abates, you can try re-crimping. It is probably easiest to do with the switch removed from the column, but this does not even involve removing the wiring connections. The metal is fairly soft so it does not require anything special except common sense and and a bit of hand pressure. A bench and jig would be nice, but they are hardly necessities.

FWIW, I have seen a few of these switches taped and/or glued or epoxied together. This is usually a course of last resort as in "what have I got to lose."

Good luck!

 

[pamp]

Ignition

Same problem with Seinna, it turned out to be the intermediate section of the lock. Carl has the knowledge and the parts. I sent the whole assembly to him and he repaired for quite reasonable $$
Search for my post on this subject. The lock assy. is a bitch to pull as they use snap off screws to make the car harder to steal. PM me for more advice if needed. Call Carl is best.