The new chain tensioner rails are crap

Stevehose

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SFDon has been talking me off the ledge on a few engine issues I am working on (thank you Don), one of which is my low idle chain noise. A few years ago I replaced my original tensioner rail with a new Febi one and that's when the noise began (goes away above 1000 rpm). Now that I have my car up on blocks for the 5 speed I am also doing the front engine cover work again. Don has said in the past that the new rails don't fit the piston well and I am documenting this to show that it may also not have enough travel to keep the chain taught. He kindly offered to alter one for me but upon removing the current one and comparing it to my original one (thankfully I kept it, for once my packratting paid off), there is a huge difference in fit and quality.

I can see evidence of the Febi tang hitting the cover wall, there is not enough clearance so the tensioner piston bottoms out the tang and causes noise. Now I know why, the original has between 7.25 and 8.5mm more width at the critical area nearest the wall. Therefore preventing chain slap etc. The original rail is also longer, better made, and has a different curvature. I am putting the original back in and trashing the Febi.

Comparing the dimensions and clearances:
IMG_2514.JPG


Original on the right, Febi on the left, The original is heavier and solid, the Febi is light and flimsy:
IMG_2516.JPG


Height difference - original on left:
IMG_2502.JPG


Clearance difference - wider is original, picture the cover wall coming up in between the arch of the tang:
IMG_2503.JPG


Hopefully this will show you what you will be up against if you have to replace this part, I think the Febi came from BMW but am not positive, if anyone has bought one of these from BMW please post a pic for comparison.

Bottom line, if you get the Febi or MTC version of this part, be prepared to grind out/bend the tang to increase clearance and alter it to fit the piston (this may weaken it however), even then it may not be enough. A few extra millimeters makes a big difference when tensioning chains and preventing slap/noise.

I just ordered one from BMW just to see what shows up. If it is the crappy version it's being returned.
 
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sfdon

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Well done Steve- just because its new doesn't mean it's good....
You studied it well!
 

Gazz

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Makes you wonder how they can get it so wrong. The variable quality of new parts makes you realize how valuable the experience of the sfdons of the world is in sorting the good from the bad and the ugly.
 

sfdon

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Here is a pic taken by srennoc showing the wrong shape of the new part
 

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Luis A.

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I found the same and trashed the non-OEM one and purchased the BMW item. Better made in every way, not just the steel but also the thickness and quality of the plastic/rubber surface.

Some BMW parts are better some aren't. When replacing my driveshaft center support bearing I purchased the very high priced BMW part and compared to one from the usual sources. The BMW part was no better and in fact the rubber surround was flimsier. The bearing had no markings indicating brand or country of origin, this despite being something like 3-4 times more expensive. Took back to the dealer and got a refund without any problem.
 

OCCoupe

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The bearing had no markings indicating brand or country of origin, this despite being something like 3-4 times more expensive.

I can't recall what part this was; but everything I source is from BMW.



Steve, the timing of this couldn't be better. I have the same issue with my timing chain tensioner where the tang doesn't land properly where it meets up with the fork of the piston. I had to bend the tang to get it to line up correctly. However as I mentioned above I source everything from BMW. Don confirmed that he has had the same problem with BMW parts.
 

Stevehose

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You may also want to check that the rail goes far enough onto the chain to provide proper tension before hitting the case wall with the tang.

I can't recall what part this was; but everything I source is from BMW.

Steve, the timing of this couldn't be better. I have the same issue with my timing chain tensioner where the tang doesn't land properly where it meets up with the fork of the piston. I had to bend the tang to get it to line up correctly. However as I mentioned above I source everything from BMW. Don confirmed that he has had the same problem with BMW parts.
 

OCCoupe

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You may also want to check that the rail goes far enough onto the chain to provide proper tension before hitting the case wall with the tang.

Thanks for the insight, I have looked carefully but will have another look tonight to be safe.

It is unfortunate since there are so many items like this that don't fit correctly or are completely wrong.
 

Stevehose

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Especially such a critical piece. I suppose some saftey clearance could be had by dremeling a small semicircular area a few mm deep out of the tang where it lines up with the wall.

Thanks for the insight, I have looked carefully but will have another look tonight to be safe.

It is unfortunate since there are so many items like this that don't fit correctly or are completely wrong.
 

Ohmess

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Is this more of the "decontentization" of auto industry parts?

Please post pictures of the part you obtain from BMW.
 

Ohmess

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After seeing Don's picture of the dealer part posted earlier I cancelled the order and am going to reinstall my original one.

Makes sense, Steve. I wasn't sure the picture Don posted was a part sold by BMW. I get it now.

To my thinking, this doesn't quite square with the flowery words BMW uses in its "Ageless Performance" brochure:

"Each BMW Original Part is created to the highest standards and quality, using original tools and production machines, and then tested before leaving the factory."
 
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m5bb

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I did something to mine a year ago because it wasn't working right when I put the engine together but don't remember the exact details.
I did put in a new tensioner.

But I do get a strange noise at low rpm that sounds like a metal baffle rattling.
Probably have 10k on the motor though. No damage so far.
Since my engine is coming out this winter and I have a leak I will open this up and take a look.
Thanks for the info Steve.

Gary
 

m5bb

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So the tensioner (Febi) that was installed in 2014 broke the tap off that goes behind the slot on the tensioner piston and the broken end was stuck behind the piston end.
So basically no tension on chain for who knows how long.
Ordered one from BMW so hope it is not a POS.
May look at reinforcing the arm and tap before reinstalling.

So anyone that is going to install a knew tensioner arm should be very careful about the brand of the part they use.

Gary
 

sfdon

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Haven't seen a good one in 2 years
Dry fit each one with a hammer on the bench first.
 

twistinglane

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Wow. These are on a ton of M30 and M10 engines. Bad on BMW if not doing QA on this item! Does the plastic in this age or weaken with time? If not maybe a unworn old one is the better bet.
 

m5bb

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Wow. These are on a ton of M30 and M10 engines. Bad on BMW if not doing QA on this item! Does the plastic in this age or weaken with time? If not maybe a unworn old one is the better bet.

That's a good point. Should look for old one if I saved it.
No the rubber like material does not wear very much at all.

This is what I found when I removed the upper timing case
cover. You can see broken off tab behind the tensioner
piston. There is a cavity below this so it could not easily
fall into the oil pan.

I bought a new BMW part and it is not any better.
I had to move the tab to the right to align with the piston.
Cast piece so metal is not that strong.
I can tell you though that I ran my engine for quite a
number of miles with this broken with no damage.
I could hear it now that I know what I was hearing.

tensioner 1.jpg
 
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