To clear coat or not clear coat

[mdf]

What is the conventional group wisdom on this topic. My coupe is going to be painted sometime in the next few months. My painter wants to apply a clear coat on top of the color. I initially said no but am thinking that I'll let him talk me into using a clear coat.

Any thoughts out there on this topic.

-MF

 

[adawil2002]

Go with the clear coat.

 

[HB Chris]

You must be going with a single stage paint I assume as clear coats are required on metallics. My Malaga paint has a clear on it which has held up well, it can be color sanded to remove scratches, shrinkage and such. Touching it up is a little more difficult but can still be done however.

 

[shanon]

+1 for clear coat.

 

[rodspock]

I run BBS RS 17 wheels on my M6. They were reconditioned with no clear coat. As I live in Australia the environment is dry enough to leave the polished finish. I polish the wheels once a year and protect the wheels with a waxy compound.

In a corrosive environment (salted roads) I would clear coat.

Another advantage of not using a clear coat - if you kerb a wheel only the lip need re polishing.

Cheers,

Rod

 

[thehackmechanic]

you don't ever put clear coat on single-stage paint

My understanding is that paints are either single-stage (a "straight color") or a base coat/clear coat system where the base coat contains the color and the clear coat protects it from UV damage. My understanding is that you don't ever spray clear coat on single-stage paint, and you don't ever leave the clear coat off a base coat.

For that "fall into the reflection" finish, paint is wet-sanded to remove "orange peel" in the paint and get it to lay flat. On a base coat / clear coat finish, my understanding is that both the base coat and the clear coat are wet-sanded.

If you're doing a thorough outer body restoration on an E9, with the cost of body panels, body work, rust repair, and leveling-out small dings and dents, I'm not sure why anyone would try and save money by using single-stage paint.

There are three good-length chapters in my book on the outer body restoration of my E9 where I discuss all this.

 

[HB Chris]

A clear coat can be applied over a single stage paint as was done on my coupe.

 

[shanon]

Paint thoughts:
Single stage: great for race cars that will likely need touch-ups often, single stage is a simpler and quicker paint system. Its a slightly more matte finish and less expensive.

Base/clear: better for street/show cars, makes a deeper looking paint and paint is better protected. More steps involved for touch-ups/repairs, but I think a more durable system overall. More chemicals = more $$.

My paint is a 2 stage: base/clear, shot the base/clear myself (two guys, two colors, two days). I did not wet sand between base and clear coats. Then had it professionally wet sanded after paint job cured for a week, best $300 bucks I ever spent, what a difference...juicy!

hth
-shanon

 

[Stan]

No clear coat

Single stage paint

 

[p.smitty]

Paint

IMHO, both systems are great, but single stage paint looks more authentic with solid colors on older cars. I believe that clear coat was developed to cover and protect porous metallic paints. When applied to a solid color on an older car, it gives the paint job protection, more sheen, and a more "plastic" look. I have done it both ways on a solid color car and personally, I like the look of a cut and polished single stage SOLID paint on an vintage car. It looks more authentic. On a metallic color, clear coat must be applied to protect the porous nature of the paint.

Just an opinion.

 

[David]

IMHO, both systems are great, but single stage paint looks more authentic with solid colors on older cars.

+1

 

[Gazz]

Add a slight matt to the clear final coat to de-gloss it for that classic single coat look with the benefits of clear coat protection.

 

[Arde]

I am about to send the E24 for a repaint and if I have to please everybody here I would do one and a half stage paint.

If you have strong paint shop recommendations in the Bay Area speak up now. No rush on completion time, if you have a part time perfectionist that is fine.

 

[David]

I'd be curious to know if you use water based paint, or if you find an old school shop.

For those of you living in democracies, California recently mandated water based paint on autos.

 

[Lotuss7]

I was having a conversation with a buddy who is pretty vested in the BMW community here in the Bay Area. He has had a couple of cars painted by Roger Elle / European Enterprises Paint in El Sobrante. FYI Roger is a member of this forum.

I have had no personal dealings with him (yet). Might want to check out his shop.

John

 

[Arde]

I'd be curious to know if you use water based paint, or if you find an old school shop.

For those of you living in democracies, California recently mandated water based paint on autos.

The shop mentioned water based, and the brand was PPT or something like that.

 

[FastCougar]

I've repainted a motorcycle before with a Kandy coat over a metallic base (Kandy is a tinted clear coat) followed by 7 layers of clear. The high build clear was to allow full sanding to achieve a baby smooth finish coat with very high reflectivity. Below are some pictures of the process.

Raw

First Pass of 800 grit wet sanding

Followed by 1000 grit wet sanding

Followed by 2000 grit wet sanding

Polished with orbital and polishing compound

 

[FastCougar]

Finished on the bike

 

[Stan]

Thats a lot of sanding….

 

[FastCougar]

This is from a spray paint "rattle can". Unfortunately, the clear coat never hardened (also spray paint) so whenever I would fill up, any gas drops on the tank would gel the coat so I stripped it down and started over with the Tangerine Kandy. I do love the black mirror though!