Triple Weber install

Discussion in 'E9 Projects and Restorations' started by Stevehose, May 19, 2012.

  1. Stevehose

    Stevehose Well-Known Member Site Donor $

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    OK I have pulled the trigger and am heading to the Dark Side with a set of Italian triple 40 DCOE webers - I will be detailing the trials and tribulations of rebuild and install in the coming weeks. I love my Zeniths but am fascinated with the plumbing and exotic potential of 3 side drafts. So for this experiment I am thinking:

    -Ramflo style foam filters for brake booster clearance (or are low profile paper filters better?)
    -Carter 4070 low psi/high volume pump mounted underneath and heavily insulated/isolated for noise reduction
    -Regular base gaskets instead of soft mount o-ring ones
    -metal can fuel filter
    -inertia cutoff switch
    -old mechanical fuel pump cover plate from Carl N.

    I would appreciate hearing from current triple owners on any tips/advice to consider so I minimize noob mistakes.

    Do I need to relay the pump and/or how should I wire it?

    What else to consider (besides saving for gas money)?

    I want max induction music :mrgreen:
     
  2. jamesw

    jamesw Active Member

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    Are you the one that outbid me? ;-) If not, I was go-kart racing and missed the end of the auction - someone got a helluva deal!

    Sorry I can't help you. I have used Solex for years but never Webers.

    Cheers
    James
     
  3. Stevehose

    Stevehose Well-Known Member Site Donor $

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    There were 2 sets sold recently - I bought the ones in New Mexico, the others were from Texas - perhaps that new owner will come forth and join me in the new Force :mrgreen:

    I have been following and wanted the ones from the "1972 CSL" but the owner wants too much coin and I was not sure they woud fit without thermostat housing replacement or some such linkage issues.

    Still would appreciate any input you have - Solex not withstanding.


     
  4. 61porsche

    61porsche Active Member

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    Recurve

    the distributer for mechanical advance.

    Good on the pump. front fenderwell. It sucks; doesn't push. Maybe some air box isolators.

    Use the ram-flows- you want the air horns inside to be as long as possible.( helps airflow into the carb.)

    Inertia is cheaper if you ask for a Ford part. ( Same bosch.)

    Blank -offs are still available new- just check for a E-12 or 24 part. ( No offense to Carl) You're gonna need bolts- use locktite or some sealer- they go straight in the head.

    Soda blast the housings.

    Figure out how you want to do the fuel lines- period correct with braided and german clamps or a little bling like the ITB guys do it.

    Now you get to buy some new toys- think about a wideband guage if only to tune.
     
  5. Stevehose

    Stevehose Well-Known Member Site Donor $

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    -Believe it or not there is not one person here in New Orleans that has a soda blaster - thanks Katrina

    -Fuel lines: definitely going for period correct with braided lines - I have enough stock on hand from previous refit, am not into red and blue fittings

    -wideband gauge - i don't think the wife would comprehend this so I will make do without - am already using highly skilled laundering techniques - she has yet to find to find out about this project - I think this Wed will be D-day - the troops land then :twisted:

    -rebuild kits on the way

    -thanks for your pre-purchase advise, you'll be hearing from me...


     
  6. Nicad

    Nicad Well-Known Member

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    61 Porsche, do you recommend recurving the stock distributor, or finding another? Do you know what the specs on the curve should be?
    Steve, I think an under hood Fuel pressure gauge is a good idea and a cutoff if the engine isn't running.
     
  7. 61porsche

    61porsche Active Member

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    Ifin

    your thoughts are that you'll stay with triples and you know that your distributer is in good order, then my preference would be to use what you've got. Buying another and then rebuilding it to recurve for mechanical seems more complicated. But distributers aren't that hard to find and there are a few still out there from rebuilders.

    Since you won't have vacuum advance, you need to modify the spark curve to come on faster for idle and off idle. Past 3000 rpm you should be all in at say 32-36 degrees. Korman had some info on their site. Ireland used to sell rebuilt but I don't know if they hdid them in house. Maybe a call to them would help. I'd also do a little study on similar sized engines like Jags and Zs.

    Best to find someone with a Sun distributer machine. They should be able to modify without a lot of trouble and provide you with a printed curve. It's not a bad idea for anyone doing engine work/ tuning to know what you're spark is doing. It shouldn't cost much and it's generally worth it.
     
  8. lafngrvy

    lafngrvy Active Member

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    Go for 50's ;-)

    CSL Engine_1.jpg


    engine_1.jpg


    engine_2.jpg
     
  9. jamesw

    jamesw Active Member

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    I highly recommend the wideband gauge - you will learn SO much about how your engine is running and it makes tuning possible. Without one you really can't optimize your carbs. Also, if you have a lean condition at some point in your power curve and you don't know about it you can burn pistons and valves. When I started using mine, I learned immediately that I had a problem w/ my accelerator pump on one carb. You can start by getting a bung installed in your exhaust collector and then you can bring it to a speed shop and use their A/F meter for tuning.

    Cheers
    James
     
  10. Nicad

    Nicad Well-Known Member

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    Does it matter where the Bung is? I have some old headers I had ceramic coated, but would prefer the Bung is on the exhaust system quite a bit further back.
     
  11. Stevehose

    Stevehose Well-Known Member Site Donor $

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    Filter type?

    I prefer the look of the RamAir style filter but am concerned with the foam being as effective as the oval paper styled ones. Pros and cons?

    [​IMG]

    vs:

    [​IMG]
     
  12. Bill Riblett

    Bill Riblett New Member

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    My big gripe about the Ramflows is that the foam filter elements deteriorate pretty quickly. I think they filter ok.

    They should give you maximum intake noise!
     
  13. Stevehose

    Stevehose Well-Known Member Site Donor $

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    That's what I'm thinkin! I will probably go for this style, I don't mind maintaining the foam to keep them clean and it seems by design they will let more music out as opposed to the paper ones with metal tops.

     
  14. 61porsche

    61porsche Active Member

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  15. Stan

    Stan Well-Known Member Site Donor

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  16. Stevehose

    Stevehose Well-Known Member Site Donor $

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  17. Nicad

    Nicad Well-Known Member

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    That air box would also really cut down on the Music.
     
    Last edited: May 21, 2012
  18. 61porsche

    61porsche Active Member

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    Webers

    I would look at the manifold gaskets they have. Two types with O-rings.
    One has double o-rings. It may help in the clearance issues everyone has.

    Socks vs filters. The new socks attach to the horns.

    I just thought it may be interesting to see somthing new.
     
  19. Stevehose

    Stevehose Well-Known Member Site Donor $

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    The o-ring ones I think are called "soft mount" and I read they are prone to leaking. I am going with regular base gaskets to minimize clearance issues. I'd love to have curved velocity stacks with removable socks for shows. But they are hard to find (Alfas had them apparantly) and to get 6 is mucho dinero.


     
  20. Stevehose

    Stevehose Well-Known Member Site Donor $

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    Carbs arrived

    The carbs arrived today - they are larger than I imagined! Next step will be to examine and rebuild.

    Question: on the center carb, there are 2 vacuum ports (bottom of pic by the 2 screws on each side), unusual for DCOE's, does this mean I can tee them together and run my distributor advance?

    The manifold is a VGS marked "Gunther BMW 28" underneath.

    [​IMG]
     
    Last edited: May 23, 2012

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