Trying to attach a wire to the carburetor idle valve...

[ECA90049]

The metal clip on my idle valve (solenoid) has broken off. So I tried soldering another clip back onto the idle valve. But when the car heated up, it melted off the idle valve. So does anybody have any other ideas on how I can get this idle valve connected again? Been all over the internet looking for another one but no luck. So I'm going to keep trying to find some way to make it work. Any help or ideas are welcome. I've attached photos of idle valve and carb info. Thanks, E

 

[TedS]

It doesn't come apart any more than that?

 

[ECA90049]

It doesn't come apart any more than that?

Did not appear to, but I will take it out again and try to twist some of the parts and see...

 

[eriknetherlands]

It appears that the solder did not have a high enough temperature resistance. Silver solder (called Hard-solder in europe also) is much stronger, but needs to be applied at a higher temperature. Not sure if your sensor can cope with the heat influx. however, it's dead now isn't it? You can't make it more dead....

The really bad, but possibly working solution is to epoxy (JB Weld) the connection together. As long as the metal parts remain in contact, it should stay functional.

 

[JFENG]

(1) even regular solder should have been able to withstand the heat. Typical electrical solder melts around 400F. I doubt it gets that hot near your carbs. I think your problem was mechanical strength, which is very low for lead/tin solder (and worse when the join it. It very tight fitting).

(2) I have never seen a Weber idle solenoid (regardless of length) with coarse threads (my guess from your picture). You might want to check the thread size and seen of any of the new solenoids are compatible. They only cost $30.

 

[ECA90049]

It appears that the solder did not have a high enough temperature resistance. Silver solder (called Hard-solder in europe also) is much stronger, but needs to be applied at a higher temperature. Not sure if your sensor can cope with the heat influx. however, it's dead now isn't it? You can't make it more dead....

The really bad, but possibly working solution is to epoxy (JB Weld) the connection together. As long as the metal parts remain in contact, it should stay functional.

It appears that the solder did not have a high enough temperature resistance. Silver solder (called Hard-solder in europe also) is much stronger, but needs to be applied at a higher temperature. Not sure if your sensor can cope with the heat influx. however, it's dead now isn't it? You can't make it more dead....

The really bad, but possibly working solution is to epoxy (JB Weld) the connection together. As long as the metal parts remain in contact, it should stay functional.

I'll give it a try and see if JB holds. Thanks...E

 

[ECA90049]

(1) even regular solder should have been able to withstand the heat. Typical electrical solder melts around 400F. I doubt it gets that hot near your carbs. I think your problem was mechanical strength, which is very low for lead/tin solder (and worse when the join it. It very tight fitting).

(2) I have never seen a Weber idle solenoid (regardless of length) with coarse threads (my guess from your picture). You might want to check the thread size and seen of any of the new solenoids are compatible. They only cost $30.

Hmmmmm, interesting thought, that a solenoid swap might work. The solenoids I've seen are much shorter so it might be an issue of them fitting. But worth a look. Thanks for the idea...E

 

[JFENG]

solenoids I've seen are much shorter

The Weber 32/36 and 38/38’s I’ve seen In the last decade all have these short solenoids. As long as the threads in the carb body, and depth of the jet holder area match your carbs they should work. These short solenoids are a tight fit.

John

 

[ECA90049]

The Weber 32/36 and 38/38’s I’ve seen In the last decade all have these short solenoids. As long as the threads in the carb body, and depth of the jet holder area match your carbs they should work. These short solenoids are a tight fit.

John

So if the shorter solenoids business end in the carb is the same dept (have to buy one to tell) and the threads are the same (buy it and try it) it might be a solution. Probably need to replace both solenoids to give it the best shot at working. Going to run this by a carb guy, but I'm hopefull. Thanks...E

 

[lip277]

I had a 2002 with a Weber 32/36 DGAV for ~28 years... Mine had a idle cutoff solenoid. I don't recall the solenoid looking like the one pictured above..
Mine was like this...

I'd see about getting a pair of new ones and seeing how that does. Should be pretty straightforward to do - providing getting the parts and access to the base of the carb and all that....

 

[ECA90049]

Still looking but just might try the shorter idle valves...

 

[TedS]

The standard idle solenoid looks exactly like the one in your picture from the washer down. That's why I ask if it can be disassembled further.

 

[ECA90049]

Will give it a try...