Turn signal relay

[americium]

Trying to get some of the “minor” things fixed on this 2800 and I’m working on the turn signals at the moment. I just fixed the horns, I tracked it down to the horns themselves. I will post a thread later on how I fixed them.

Back to the turn signals. They don’t work at all. Nor does the hazard lights. I checked all the fuses and they are good. With the power on (dash lights on) I found that what I assume is the hazard relay (43) clicks. But there is no continuous clicking, it just clicks once when the button is pushed and releases when the button is turn off. It looks like theturn signals use this relay, they are connected at points R and L on 43. I don’t see a typical flasher relay on the schematic (like I would find in my F250). My question: is this relay 43 supposed to cycle repeatedly or is there some other unit that does it? I looked all over this schematic for the turn switch #50 but don’t see it

Here’s the relay I think is #43 and a shot of the schematic.

Any insights will be appreciated

 

[HB Chris]

Hazard and turn signal is a single relay. Hazard is always live, turn only when ignition is on.

 

[Dick Steinkamp]

That MAY be your flasher relay in your hand. It appears to have the same 4 terminals that my original had...but the PN is different.

The relay marked 43 in the wiring diagram has 6 terminals so probably not the flasher relay.

Here is my old one...

In any case, when you find it, replace it with an electronic one. $15 instead of $150 and works better.

Retrofitting an Electronic Flasher Relay

Written by Chris Blumenthal Friday, 30 September 2005 Retrofitting an Electronic Flasher Relay By Chris Blumenthal Introduction Most 02 pilots have experienced turn signal problems. The dreaded indicator light "no-blinkie" and flash-only-once syndromes are among the most common. Another symptom i...

www.bmw2002faq.com

 

[americium]

Dick, that helped a ton. That is the Hazard Warning Flasher Unit, item 44, just to the upper left of 43. I missed that while I was out there pawing around in the car. The 4 tabs make sense now. Since it clicks when I hit the hazards it must be getting voltage. I will be going through all the bulbs, sockets and grounds too. That write up on the electronic flasher is great, I will be making that change ASAP.

 

[americium]

An update on the non-working turn signals and hazards. I picked up the electronic flasher and socket, installed it and they still didn’t work. I then took the original flasher and opened it up. There are two relays and some other components in it. I cleaned the contacts on the relays and still no flashers. Then I noticed that the hazard switch would cause the flashers to work if held at a certain point but not if latched all the way. I pulled that switch and sure enough, it was broken. It was hanging together with a couple of the plastic latches that are supposed to keep the halves together, the rest were broken. Here it is:

Here it is when held together:

by the way, the PO attempted to keep it together with electrical tape. It was obviously not working. I cleaned the tape residue off with a little B-12. At this point I’m thinking I need to epoxy it with JB Weld. Then I remembered I had a box of Q-Bond that I got a while ago. I had not used it on anything yet but based on the display in the auto part store (it’s the one that they bond a few different materials together) I thought it might be better. The instructions are to pour some of the powder where you want to bond or fill and add a few drops of the Super Bond CA glue on it. It cures in seconds. So I careful clamped the switch housing together and poured the black powder in to fill the broken latch pocket, put a couple drips of glue on it and it hardened almost immediately. I turned it and repeated it on all the latches. By George, it looks like it worked! I’m impressed with this glue.

Here’s what it looks like when done.

Reinstalled the switch and the hazards work! But the turn signals still aren’t working. I pulled off the lower steering wheel cover and was testing for +12V at the turn signal switch. I was probing the solder joints on the back of the switch and inadvertently touched ground when touching a point that had power and blew a fuse. Good news is it has power, bad news is now I need a fuse. I believe it was fuse 7. I found one in the trunk lid tool box. Polished the ends, inserted it and now the turn signals work! Not exactly sure why but I’ll take it. I did test the fuses at both ends with a test light and they all appeared to be ok but maybe that one wasn’t quite right.

Thats it, after reassembly everything still works. Yahoo.

 

[HB Chris]

Cleaning fuse holder ends often helps as well. Good work!

 

[americium]

Thanks! I agree, I think I will be cleaning all of those little devils.

 

[bmw2800cs]

Thanks! I agree, I think I will be cleaning all of those little devils.

My turn signal doesn't work. I've got some stuff to try out now. Thanks.

 

[jmackro]

Then I noticed that the hazard switch would cause the flashers to work if held at a certain point but not if latched all the way. I pulled that switch and sure enough, it was broken. It was hanging together with a couple of the plastic latches that are supposed to keep the halves together, the rest were broken.

The PO probably had to disassemble the hazard switch because it failed in the ON position. When that happens, the temporary fix is to take apart the switch, sharpening the locking tangs with a file and snap the switch back together. Obviously, this switch failed to snap together securely so you solved that with glue. But you still have the issue that those repaired locking tangs will soon wear and fail again, causing your battery to run down if it happens when you're not looking.

You may want to invest in a fresh switch or implement the idea that Arde posted back in 2014 in the thread at: https://e9coupe.com/forum/threads/re-emergency-flasher-switch.14525/#post-118133 I implemented this idea on my 2800 e9 and it works great.

 

[americium]

The PO probably had to disassemble the hazard switch because it failed in the ON position. When that happens, the temporary fix is to take apart the switch, sharpening the locking tangs with a file and snap the switch back together. Obviously, this switch failed to snap together securely so you solved that with glue. But you still have the issue that those repaired locking tangs will soon wear and fail again, causing your battery to run down if it happens when you're not looking.

You may want to invest in a fresh switch or implement the idea that Arde posted back in 2014 in the thread at: https://e9coupe.com/forum/threads/re-emergency-flasher-switch.14525/#post-118133 I implemented this idea on my 2800 e9 and it works great.

That is good to know, thanks. I will plan on implementing the diode rewire solution. I was thinking, as I was gluing the switch, that I may need to open it up again someday or replace it. With this solution maybe that day can be extended or eliminated.

 

[bmw2800cs]

I was going to make a new post but since everyone here is talking about turn signals - my rear signals/hazards don't work but my front's do. Any ideas?

 

[jmackro]

I will plan on implementing the diode rewire solution. I was thinking, as I was gluing the switch, that I may need to open it up again someday or replace it. With this solution maybe that day can be extended or eliminated.

OK, good, you seem to grasp the problem: The stock set-up, with the button pushed in for normal operation, requires the soft, plastic tangs to support the spring tension 99.9% of the time. So as the car bounces and vibrates, those poor, little tangs will wear. But with Arde's modification, the button is normally out - the tangs have no load on them except when the hazard lights are enabled. And when the hazard lights are on, the car probably isn't moving, so the tangs are never both supporting force AND exposed to vibration.

So yes, your used switch should survive for a long time with the "Arde modification". And with that modification, even if the tangs do fail again, all it means is that your hazards won't stay on; not that your battery will get discharged.

 

[americium]

I was going to make a new post but since everyone here is talking about turn signals - my rear signals/hazards don't work but my front's do. Any ideas?

Maybe the ground for the tail lights?