Window off track..

Sean Haas

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First time I have done this and have not opened it up yet, just looked at the mechanism online. My manual drivers side front window dropped out of the track while being rolled down last year. I kind of manipulated it back in and have left it rolled up. I want to go in to fix it, assuming something else has not broken it looks like I might need to replace a rubber gasket in the lift bracket (Carl Nelson said he just uses a bit of old inner tube) glue that down and then glue the window into the lift bracket - I have ordered the 3M epoxy recommended for movable windows. I've been told to mark the position of the window in the bracket first. I was then going to lube everything up per another thread on here (moly on gears, lithium on metal tracks, silicon on rubber seals), replace vapor seal and done - is that correct or is there anything else I need to worry about?
 

bavbob

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Sounds like a sound approach. Take pictures along the way. Check your spring mechanism, they have a tendency to break but I have welded mine with 10 years of success.
 

Sean Haas

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I will take some pics and also post them in case it's helpful for others. Noted on the spring, thanks.
 

Sean Haas

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The back bracket was not holding, but the front one was - so instead of removing everything I just pushed the glass out of the bracket, cleaned it really well with window cleaner and some nail polish remover, then shot some 3M Channel Bonding and Sidelight Adhesive in there, snapped the glass into place and rolled it up and left it overnight. Seems to have worked, hopefully that's it. But here's what it looks like for all the noobs like me. There is a large spring that will pop out on you when you remove the door panel, it goes over the window crank handle.
Window 1.jpg

Window 2.jpg
 

Charles in PA

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@Sean Haas, I just experienced this same problem with the driver's side back window. The lifter pulled the bracket off the window, found it lying at the bottom of the door. Have the 3M adhesive on my list. Did you replace the door foil and, if so, where did you get a replacement? Thanks and cheers, Charles
 

Sean Haas

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By door foil I assume you are referring to the plastic vapor barrier - Since I was not removing then mechanism I made a clean slit in the top of plastic where i was working and then just duct taped it back up. I have read elsewhere that if it has to be replaced people cut suitable piece of plastic and use rubber cement (which should allow you to open it back up and get back in there if need be) to attach it. As you can see from my pics the factory slathered on a lot of adhesive originally which is now quite crusty, whether you need to remove that or not I'm not sure, but you probably can get away with not doing that. The tape seemed to seal up pretty well (and its what my mechanics used when they put it back on track for me and lubed everything up a couple years ago - theirs was still holding just fine.)
 

Charles in PA

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Yes, plastic vapor barrier. I had to take mine most of the way off to get the bracket lying at the bottom of the door. Like yours, the plastic was slathered with adhesive and it tore in a couple of places even as I tried to gently pry it off!
 

Sean Haas

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bavbob uses a trash bag and 3M caulk...

 
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I just did this repair on both left doors (front and rear) on my "new to me" bavaria. Now that everything is buttery smooth (from lock function to latch and window function) it makes the opposite side feel suddenly "bad." ;-)

Here's some basic info:

I used 3M black "weatherstrip adhesive" the second time after JB Weld failed (it gets too hard and brittle, then peels off the glass). I worked for a guy that swore by engine RTV gasket sealant as a great adhesive for glass as well... but I prefer the 3M stuff. Things need to be surgically clean for any of this to work. I wipe everything down with acetone.

I also removed the latch and cleaned it with small brushes and "Prep-Sol" aka "Wax and grease remover" though brakleen works fine, too. I NEVER EVER use white lithium grease on things automotive, as it turns to clay and makes things worse, long term. Instead, I buy bicycle chain lube spray...(which works like the fancy $25 Wurth HHS-K / HS 2000 stuff and is easy to get locally) and completely lubricate the latch. The stuff sprays on thin, then creeps in to crannies...thn gels up to stay put.

I use plain old grease on the vertical rollers after cleaning them as well.

This is a good time to remove any potential rattles, like broken pieces of door brakes etc and also replace the small pea sized latch/lock rod grommets. Makes a HUGE difference.

I've started to use adhesive rubber/tar backed window flashing as a super water barrier / insulation layer. Cheap, effective, and easy to work with. Photo shows its use on a 2002, for reference. Available in different width rolls... I use either 6" wide or (9"?) wide.
 

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Christoph

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Probably any black "weatherstrip adhesive" will do. Cannot remember what I used, probably something common (Germany) and unknown (everywhere else). The window fell down, gear parts lying in the door, as well, only a few days before a major trip. Had to be fixed in a hurry, without attention to all the details @Paul Wegweiser describes. Wiped the liners with glass cleaner and put new grease on the running gear after removing the old. Found the self-adhesive foil from Walloth & Nesch really helpful. Comes in rolls. You don't even need to remove the remains of the old cement although I rubbed off most of it with a medium to stiff brush. Now everything works nicely, except for the electric mirror, and looks as it should but I still feel I could have done better.
it makes the opposite side feel suddenly "bad."
Just too right.
 

bavbob

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Maybe I am not clear what we are using the 3M bonding stuff for. From your pictures, you are missing a rubber gasket that wraps around the window where the back bracket holds the window. Adhere the rubber to the window with 3M gasket adhesive, slide into the bracket. No need for glue between the window and the bracket.
 
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