ruduger
Member
Hello Everyone:
Do you know of any suppliers of rebuild kits for these carbs?
Thanks in advance
:???:
Do you know of any suppliers of rebuild kits for these carbs?
Thanks in advance
:???:
Zenith Carb Question
- Thread starter ruduger
- Start date
I've used the Walker kits before, I found them sub-standard. If doing again I'd give the Royze a try. Either way get the "major" kits to include choke pull-off gaskets and accel-pump skirts. Ebay, Mesa, et al have them. Search for Zenith INAT.
never classicgarage !
you can buy kits from walloth not bad quality
but i get the original directly from a friend in munich
question is prices, pm for details
btw, i have a set of nine videos on youtube about how to do this happy job
you can buy kits from walloth not bad quality
but i get the original directly from a friend in munich
question is prices, pm for details
btw, i have a set of nine videos on youtube about how to do this happy job
Zenith Accelerator Pump rubber Skirt
How do you take the rubber skirt off the accelerator pump? Looks like the end near the skirt piece is slotted for a screwdriver, but simply turning it doesn't seem to loosen it up any.
Had a small tear in one of mine and ended up having to buy a new pump which cost as much as the major re-build kit.
How do you take the rubber skirt off the accelerator pump? Looks like the end near the skirt piece is slotted for a screwdriver, but simply turning it doesn't seem to loosen it up any.
Had a small tear in one of mine and ended up having to buy a new pump which cost as much as the major re-build kit.
you must have access to the top of that piece and the loose and disasemble the accel pump lever to be able to lift it up using pliers
it is simply put there, no attachment, only gravity
my videos on youtube may help to see it with your own eyes,, here is the link to the first one, they are nine
http://youtu.be/7-bMXv_N-Vg
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The rubber skirt should just slip off like an o-ring. Pull the pump out of the hole with needle nose pliers on the little metal round tip of the pump. I kept tearing mine when inserting the pump back in so be careful here. You can find new accel pumps for $30 - they are same for Mercedes. They make a huge difference in driveablility.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/MERCEDES-AC...Parts_Accessories&hash=item1c1c3e6aaf&vxp=mtr
http://www.ebay.com/itm/MERCEDES-AC...Parts_Accessories&hash=item1c1c3e6aaf&vxp=mtr
Mike Goble
Well-Known Member
The best repair kit I ever got for my Zeniths was made by Weber...
Stevehose:
I did what you said and within a couple of minutes had a new rubber skirt on the accelerator pump plunger. I hadn't realized it was that easy to do, I should have asked earlier. Thanks much
Unfortunately, the kits I used to rebuild my carbs were Walker. Was there something in particular you weren't happy with qualitywise? At least I'll know what to keep a lookout for.
After cleaning out the two used Zenith's I bought and putting them on my car, the driveability is world's better. Starts right up even after sitting for a week in 30 deg temps. There's no more off-idle stumble which I suspected was due to the one of the accelerator pumps not functioning. And the slight surging I used to experience @ 2500 rpm is gone too.
I'm cleaning/rebuilding the two Zenith's I pulled off the car, to have them as spares ready to mount if needed.
deQuincy:
Your videos/clear photos along with other Zenith posts on the forum, and the factory repair manuals helped me greatly in taking the Zeniths apart, getting them back together again, and making sure the choke assembly was properly set-up. They are a lot more complicated than the Webers I was used to dealing with, but now I have a better understanding of how they work.
Just hope I don't have to mess with them again for a while...:smile:
I did what you said and within a couple of minutes had a new rubber skirt on the accelerator pump plunger. I hadn't realized it was that easy to do, I should have asked earlier. Thanks much
Unfortunately, the kits I used to rebuild my carbs were Walker. Was there something in particular you weren't happy with qualitywise? At least I'll know what to keep a lookout for.
After cleaning out the two used Zenith's I bought and putting them on my car, the driveability is world's better. Starts right up even after sitting for a week in 30 deg temps. There's no more off-idle stumble which I suspected was due to the one of the accelerator pumps not functioning. And the slight surging I used to experience @ 2500 rpm is gone too.
I'm cleaning/rebuilding the two Zenith's I pulled off the car, to have them as spares ready to mount if needed.
deQuincy:
Your videos/clear photos along with other Zenith posts on the forum, and the factory repair manuals helped me greatly in taking the Zeniths apart, getting them back together again, and making sure the choke assembly was properly set-up. They are a lot more complicated than the Webers I was used to dealing with, but now I have a better understanding of how they work.
Just hope I don't have to mess with them again for a while...:smile:
Google Royze, they make the kits. Ask for John Lazenby the owner, he will mail them out.
They were ok but the choke pull down gaskets (the triangular ones with the metal rod) didn't fit, as well as some other gaskets so I re-used some. I also didn't like the new needle valves so I re-used the ones with the little ball bearing in the tip. Hint: Don't throw anything out from your carbs until you're done, you may need to re-use something.
Glad the rest worked out, just set the idle mixture and do the finger over the vent hole trick (61Porsche) to see if it's lean or rich at idle and adjust accordingly. They are great carbs when set up correctly.
Glad the rest worked out, just set the idle mixture and do the finger over the vent hole trick (61Porsche) to see if it's lean or rich at idle and adjust accordingly. They are great carbs when set up correctly.
Carb kits
Besides Steve's sage advice...... the intermeadiate gasket ( the one that is used for the float) is vitally important in shape and fit. The kits come with several gaskets that look similar. In the area of the swing of the float or fuel bowl make certain the gasket doesn't overhang- at all. If it does, trim it a bit to just cover the casting. The manuals refer to the vent chamber or none as to year and make- that's why. Comments in the day were that the fuel level is particular. Mercedes used to sell a whole set of six gaskets for the fuel inlet valve to set the float level. Maybe you'll be lucky and find a set.
Back to kits-what happens is that the clearances around the float cannot be taken for granted. It's very precise and often overlooked.
The consequences are that the float will hang up, either full or empty on that darn gasket.
Besides Steve's sage advice...... the intermeadiate gasket ( the one that is used for the float) is vitally important in shape and fit. The kits come with several gaskets that look similar. In the area of the swing of the float or fuel bowl make certain the gasket doesn't overhang- at all. If it does, trim it a bit to just cover the casting. The manuals refer to the vent chamber or none as to year and make- that's why. Comments in the day were that the fuel level is particular. Mercedes used to sell a whole set of six gaskets for the fuel inlet valve to set the float level. Maybe you'll be lucky and find a set.
Back to kits-what happens is that the clearances around the float cannot be taken for granted. It's very precise and often overlooked.
The consequences are that the float will hang up, either full or empty on that darn gasket.
ruduger
Member
Thanks all, for the invaluable info. It should be an advantue!