Zenith Secret Revealed

dp

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I first let this out to the CS Registry 8 years ago, figure some since-then-newbies may benefit and may not have heard of this...

After decades of "the possibility" that our car may have been overheated, it is pretty likely that overheating has occured, perhaps more than once or twice. Often, even the original heads simply get shaved (!) to take any heat-induced warpage out of them...but can YOU recall someone mentioning warping in the zenith carb assemblies?

I'd wager not often. The next time you have time on your hands and decide to maybe re-build your zenith carbs, try lapping the bodies mating surfaces on a piece of flat plate glass with rouge ... First, you will be amazed at how the first few passes betray some significant out-of-flat condition. Next, continue to patiently lap the surfaces ONLY until you get a consistent polish/finish/shine on the entire flat face surface. Do NOT over-do it. More is NOT better, you only want "just enough." Then, if you have done everything correctly on the rebuild/re-assembly of your carbs (itself a challenge for far more of us than would care to admit) you will find yourself with a pair of carbs, when synched properly, that are very responsive and perform very well across the whole powerband range AND last a lot longer than the cha-ching "non-FIA-approved" Webers and even hold a tune!

So there! I finally said it. If you decide to repeat this in print, please make a (fair) attribution, I'm not making this up.
 
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Arde

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Very eloquent.

Webers have three key secrets that are carefully passed from mechanic to mechanic, and my mechanic in a moment of weakness revealed them to me.
 

GolfBavaria

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Very eloquent.

Webers have three key secrets that are carefully passed from mechanic to mechanic, and my mechanic in a moment of weakness revealed them to me.

Oh do tell...... most of us on here can at least contribute 5% of our grey hairs to carburetors..... I remember as a kid pulling apart my Briggs and Stratton carburetors on the go-cart to try and understand how they worked. Well, that didn't work out so well, every time I would put it back together there was a spring or a screw or both still sitting there.....somehow it would still run those things were amazing... Wouldn't want to try that with the Weber's or Zenith's. I eventually figured out where the pieces went but even those could be tricky sometimes to keep tuned properly and they are as simple as you get. Then I found out about a governor, oh how fun that was to take off:twisted:
 

Arde

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Are you sure you want to know the Weber's three secret mantra?
I cannot unring that bell afterwards.
 

Honolulu

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yeah, inquiring minds...

1. Zenith 35-40 INAT carbs are a major b*tch to get right.
2. Zenith 35-40 INAT carbs are a major b*tch to get right.
3. Zenith 35-40 INAT carbs are ...

Oh wait, we all knew that. So whatza trick? Here'za few:

You can test the idle shutoff solenoid using a bit of small diameter hose on the business end and trying to blow through it.
Water is a poor material with which to test for vacuum leaks. Gasoline is even worse.
If you can borrow a "Harmonizer" (electronic digital differential manometer) from someone with a BMW R-bike, you may be able with minor effort to get the vacuum in the two carbs within a few millibars. For vacuum purposes, that's VERY close. But your engine may still run poorly.
 
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deQuincey

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yeah, inquiring minds...

1. Zenith 35-40 INAT carbs are a major b*tch to get right.
2. Zenith 35-40 INAT carbs are a major b*tch to get right.
3. Zenith 35-40 INAT carbs are ...

Oh orly.

neh, ...i am afraid you are still on the horse towards damascus, the truth has not been revealed to you yet, real faith awaits you in any turn of the road, perseverate my friend in christ...
 

bavbob

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Perhaps my Zeniths were raised correctly by the prior owner. I had never worked on a carb before but found rebuild straightforward with organization and patience. They run without a hitch. I know no other and remain true.
 

Bert Poliakoff

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Point of interest. When lapping valve shims for my Etype, owned many moons ago, my machinist friend who was supervising, told me to lap in a figure 8 motion thereby making sure all the surfaces are hit evenly. When doing the shims, we had to remove material to get to the thickness we needed and used emory cloth on a glass plate kind of held together by a “picture frame’ type thing we put together in a few minutes.
 

Arde

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On the road to Damscus my faithful mechanic found a clay vase with the following arameic inscription:
The three secrets behind tuning Weber carburetors.
And inside there was a parchment scroll that read:

Secret #1: Never reveal the other two.
 

deQuincey

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On the road to Damscus my faithful mechanic found a clay vase with the following arameic inscription:
The three secrets behind tuning Weber carburetors.
And inside there was a parchment scroll that read:

Secret #1: Never reveal the other two.

good one, religion and faith have always been useful to hide the knowledge and keep it safe for the upper classes,...you should dress that salad using terrible menaces to complete the illussion,...i.e."...never reveal the other two or you will become a salt statue,."..;-)
 

mulberryworks

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Colortune

I have a Gunson Colortune, but have not had a chance to use it yet. It's basically a spark plug with a clear port that lets you see the combustion as the engine is running. This will let you adjust each carb to get the best mix.
Sounds like an excellent way to get things much closer to ideal for not a huge investment. I'll have to see if practice is easy as theory, but I figure it can't hurt. I've cleaned the carbs and put in new gaskets and replaced the leather accelerator pumps(!). I'll post my results, but it will be a little while till I can get to it.
http://www.amazon.com/Colortune-for...d=1438636733&sr=8-1&keywords=gunson+colortune

Ian

1970 2800CS
 

Stevehose

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This might help you:

http://www.e9coupe.com/forum/showthread.php?t=11701



I have a Gunson Colortune, but have not had a chance to use it yet. It's basically a spark plug with a clear port that lets you see the combustion as the engine is running. This will let you adjust each carb to get the best mix.
Sounds like an excellent way to get things much closer to ideal for not a huge investment. I'll have to see if practice is easy as theory, but I figure it can't hurt. I've cleaned the carbs and put in new gaskets and replaced the leather accelerator pumps(!). I'll post my results, but it will be a little while till I can get to it.
http://www.amazon.com/Colortune-for...d=1438636733&sr=8-1&keywords=gunson+colortune

Ian

1970 2800CS
 

Arde

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I have a Gunson Colortune, but have not had a chance to use it yet. It's basically a spark plug with a clear port that lets you see the combustion as the engine is running.

That is awesome.
A blend of my automotive interests with my voyeur history :).
 

Honolulu

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the primary secret...

From coupeking in an earlier thread: "Primary secret is NOT to overtighten the vertical screw that goes at the very top of the carb and into the air cleaner assembly. Overtightening the nut holding the aircleaner in place can separate the middle layers of the carb and create internal air leaks which are difficult to trace."
 
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