From: Dale & Sheila Olson
Date: Mon, 07 May 2001
Subject: Re: Front wheel bearings
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If you are replacing both the bearing and race (highly recommended as they
usually come as a set) you will have to use a long punch and hammer and tap the old race out of the hub and the new race in. Make sure you don't let the race get "cocked" at an angle in the hub. Just tap all the way around a little at a time and you will be fine. To put the new race in, tap it down until it is flush with the edge of the hub, then use the punch and circle around it until it seats against the lip. It's very obvious when it's down all the way. This is also a very good time to replace the grease seal in the back of the hubs. Don't forget to "pack" the new bearings. A coating on the inside and outside of the rollers is NOT packing! This is just about the most fun you can have with wheel bearing grease and still be legal. Surgeon's latex gloves work good for this. Put a gob of grease in the cup of the palm of your hand and take the bearing and push the grease in the side of the bearing between the rollers. Keep pushing it in until it comes out the other side. I have heard of several different methods of making sure the big nut with the cotter key through it is the right tightness. One method that has worked for me throughout the years is as follows: With the caliper still hanging off to the side (you did remember to use a piece of wire to prevent strain on the lines and hoses, didn't you?) spin the hub and tighten the nut until you can feel the bearing start to drag. Back it off to the next notch back to line up with the hole through the shaft. Or you could use your handy-dandy inch pound torque wrench and convert to the metric specs listed in the book (any ideas, anybody?) Don't forget to put a NEW cotter key through the shaft and nut. Reusing the old one is a definite no-no and a bent six-penny nail just don't cut it. Dale. At 08:56 AM 5/7/01 -0400, Graham Thomas wrote:
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