I have replaced 2 E3 U-joints with good results. The U-joints are available
after-market for about $40/ea.
I used a Dremel to grind off the retaining dents. Bashed out the old joint,
squeezed in the new one. Used three fast quickly-applied spot welds at each
of the 4 caps, cooling with water ASAP in order to not fry too much grease.
I was insecure about the second one, so I bought a rebuilt DS from Driveline
of Portland. $440 or so. Vibrations were the same as my hack-job DS,
presumably in the half shafts or CV joints.
Point is, you can achieve a working DS at home, but it's a PITA to do and
will never be quite as good or durable as a professoinally rebuilt one.
Also bought a rebuilt DS from the same place for my E28. 54,000 miles and 5
years later it's doing great. They use greasable Toyota U-Joints, though you
can only get to the rear joint on an E28 without removing the exhaust & heat
shield.
Gerald.
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From: "Marty Roach" <[email protected]>
To: [email protected], [email protected]
Subject: Re: Driveshaft Rebuilds
Date: Wed, 20 Jun 2001 11:31:51 -0400
BMW U-joint are inserted, then a star shaped punch
makes grooves that hold the joints in place. Need
to be drilled out. Don't know if BMW intended for
them to be rebuilt.
My buddy with the E-type Jag did his U-joints himself
for almost nothing using a press. We are not so lucky.
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From: Marilyn <[email protected]>
To: [email protected]
Subject: Re: Driveshaft Rebuilds
Date: Wed, 20 Jun 2001 10:05:50 -0400
Assembled Horde,
FWIW -
I replaced my driveshaft new from BMW. Couple of reasons:
1) the exchange rate was such, that the price of a rebuilt
driveshaft, + the core charge, + shipping exceeded the cost of a new
CSi driveshaft by well over $100.
2) There is only one driveshaft listed in the parts microfiche for a CSi.
3) The shop (kalifornia/Oregon region) said:" Yeah, we have a CS
driveshaft. What? Sure! Oh course it will. Part number? We don't need
a part number, it's for a coupe, right? It's the same for all of them
- sure it is."
I decided not to trust the guy on the phone.
Your E3 cars may be different - and you might not even have an E3
stock driveshaft to deal with. I don't know, so you may be able to
trust the guy on the phone. There is a difficulty with pressing in
the BMW u-joints when they are rebuilt - that is what I am told.
It ran me around $535 out the door for a new one, delivered, in 1998.
That was less than a rebuilt one (total cost, with shipping), the one
purchased at a dealership is guaranteed for 1 year, and I was in a
hurry. It probably still pays to check the exchange rate & dealership
delivery cost before you get any driveshaft.
Best,
Marilyn
****************
At 9:09 AM -0400 6/20/01, wriblett wrote:
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I replaced the driveshaft in my '86 635 with one from Driveline Service
of Portland. When that went bad (rear u-joint binding) after about 2
years, it was replaced under warranty.
There is also a rebuilder named Baum, I think, whose products I have
seen and which looked really nice. Sorry that I don't have more
information on them.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Cameron Holliday" <[email protected]>
To: "CS Coupe" <[email protected]>; "SR6" <[email protected]>
Sent: Tuesday, June 19, 2001 5:53 PM
Subject: Driveshaft Rebuilds
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Hi Groupes, anyone want to share their experiences with either of the
driveshaft rebuilder in the Roundel. One in Oregon and the other in
Atlanta. I need new U-joints in the M3s driveshaft and I don't know
which to use. Any input would be appreciated.
Thanks
Cam
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