CSL Barn Find 2285251

G'day Wes, Just a quick question.

Curious re your comment on the rear spoiler? It seems your inference was that it is 'not a fun job' to install?

I am about to do just that job on my car having found a correct CSL rear small spoiler few months back. Was hoping it would be a simple process for my body shop to just attach said CSL spoiler and repaint?

Any tips/watch outs?

(And really enjoying following your build, and super impressed with how it's going)

Thanks
 
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Thanks mate, it's getting serious now - block and head off for machining as we speak.

You might have an easier time if you have an original BMW spoiler. The main issues for us have been we had to shave it down to fit snug against the top of the rear quarter panels. Another issue is affixing it without drilling doles in your boot lid. We found a way around this via molding fixing points inside the spoiler that line up with the fixing points for the boot roundel and CSL badge.
Also had to make a some neoprene boots that sit between the mounts and the metal boot to avoid chafing, road noise etc. There is also a neoprene boot we made that runs the length of the leading and trailing edges where it seats on the boot lid. These will then pick up double sided tape to affix to the boot lid - probably overkill but don't want it to come off on the highway.
You also want to make sure that any water that gets forced under the spoiler if driving in the rain can escape of corrosion will be an issue.

Hope this helps.
 
Hi Wes, Your project is coming along very nice, that paint job looks amazing, I own a 73 Euro 3.0cs original paint is Chamonix, did you go with single stage or two stage paint and why, I'm still debating on which one to do.
Thanks, Victor
 
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grnder95 said:
Hi Wes, Your project is coming along very nice, that paint job looks amazing, I own a 73 Euro 3.0cs original paint is Chamonix, did you go with single stage or two stage paint and why, I'm still debating on which one to do.
Thanks, Victor
Click to expand...
I just went through this. Chamonix is originally single stage but you can get two-stage paint in the same code. I talked with the paint store and some professional painters and they all said you can get single stage to look really good and if that was original they'd probably stay with it. I've only painted my engine compartment and since I always have clear on the shelf I was going to paint it single stage and also put clear over it when I paint the body and see if it really makes a difference. Clear coat will be harder but we don't treat our coupes like daily drivers so they don't get the ultra-violets enough to worry about it.
 
grnder95 said:
Hi Wes, Your project is coming along very nice, that paint job looks amazing, I own a 73 Euro 3.0cs original paint is Chamonix, did you go with single stage or two stage paint and why, I'm still debating on which one to do.
Thanks, Victor
Click to expand...

We went with two pack mate as per the original spec.
 
Chamonix is a single stage paint, per the original specs! All non metallic paints are single stage, an added clear coat is not required on them, as stated by @dang above.
 
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Thought I should post a bit of an update.
Work slowed up as it turned out we needed to re-bore the motor as there was a little too much slop and given how we've cut no corners so far I didn't want to start now.
Had a little bit of fun sourcing a set of oversize pistons but located a set out of the UK, which took an age to get here.
The other piece of 'work' I had to do was a legal advice to argue that conversion to a manual steering box and the associated lengthening of the steering rod wasn't a 'modification' within the relevant laws and therefore didn't require an engineering sign off. Who knew you actually did need a lawyer on the build team!

Obviously Covid-19 has slowed us up a bit but have also undertaken the following:

Had my Alpina mags refinished, now having tyres fitted;
Ordered carpet from KHM for the CSL;
Block off to be re-bored;
Head tested and re-built;
All engine housing parts stripped and cleaned;
Ordered the last of the engine/gear box bits from W&N;
Sent off the steering rod to be lengthened for the RHD manual box;
Ordered some misc parts from Jaymic as they were literally closing the shop;
Sent my CSL radiator to be re-cored;
Had the starter motor re-conditioned.
Sent prop shaft off to be re-furbished;

My tentative completion date of my 40th birthday (April 24) is now out the door in large part due to losing weeks on finding new pistons and a re-bore. We are are now shooting for practical completion toward the back end of this year.

Will post some more pics soon.
 
Back out in the workshop today and a bit of progress on the car.
Lots happening in the parts department but nice to actually be putting some stuff back in, as opposed to taking it out.

First off I now have manual steering having received my custom made steering rod. The RHD power rods are approx 70mm too short.

image1 (3).JPG


The other big news was we got the dash back in. Didn't give us too much trouble at all. And before @Markos chimes in I know that's not the right wheel! The proper Petri wheel is in a safety deposit box at my bank.

dash.JPG


This is all the original timber work that came out of the car. I spent an age restoring it. Probably would have been easier to have it re-veneered but wanted to keep it original. For those that don't remember this is what it looked like when the car arrived:

20181015_144754.jpg


Still lots to do but expect things to speed up once I get my block back.
 
Hi Wes,

Did you refurbish and re-sleave the brake cylinder? or did you buy a replacement RHD E9 cylinder already in working order?

I am struggling to find someone to fully refurbish mine in Australia, so any recommendation on supplier is appreciated.

Regards
 
Mal CSL 3.0 said:
Hi Wes,

Did you refurbish and re-sleave the brake cylinder? or did you buy a replacement RHD E9 cylinder already in working order?

I am struggling to find someone to fully refurbish mine in Australia, so any recommendation on supplier is appreciated.

Regards
Click to expand...

I went the re-co option from Jaymic for master cylinder. For the calipers they were all frozen up so bought a re-co kit and had the work done locally.
 
After a delay that felt like an age we are back into full after finally getting the block back from the machine shop.
Oversize pistons (05) are now all in as is all of the bottom end. We also go the head back on as well, which has also been fully reconditioned.

IMG_4873.jpg


Have also reconditioned all of the injector assembly and this will go on as soon as my new seals arrive.

IMG_4875.jpg


Also got these back along with a fully reconditioned prop shaft, starter motor and a machined fly wheel. Still waiting on my carpets as they were delayed due to Covid-19.

IMG_4876.jpg


This week we plan to re-install the timing gear, exhaust manifold and probably start on the gear box in addition to working through a pile of other engine related bits that need to be refurbished. Ideally I'm aiming to be in a position to put the motor back in the car in around a month, assuming there's no hold up with parts arriving.
 
Another big day down on the car.

All of the timing gear is back on the motor and the timing has been done. Sump is back on and it feels like we are on the home straight for the motor.
Note the strategically placed pedal car as the site foreman decided there were some muddy puddles that needed her attention.

IMG_4878.jpg


Just waiting on the lower injector seals to arrive and then they can go back on. Hopefully later this week we will set the tappets and get the rest of the inlet manifold back on ahead of my W&N order arriving. Next steps will be to get the ignition circuit back on the motor and rebuild the gear box ahead of getting the motor and box back in the car in the next few weeks all being well. After that attention will switch to getting the running gear to a point where we can start the engine.
 
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