Here are the wheel spacers I run to let fit these wheels, they are 24mm thick
I'm finished, 2231518 is done
- Thread starter kasbatts
- Start date
Those center caps are incredible, very well done. Better than factory.
More pics, not sure if they all uploaded from yesterday
Just some ravings for you all to read, I'm just back at here at work after my summer Christmas break and finding it hard to get motivated!, just as well I'm self employed or I would be in trouble!
Well, just when you think your done, you find your not done at all!
When I went for my WOF test recently there was two tiny problems that the testers picked up on but let slide (i know them, and there into classics
)
One was a rust hole in the rear muffler and the other was a bit of brake fluid leaking from one of the remote slave cylinders, Things I would get around to fixing in good time.
The brakes I was never that happy with, they felt like wood and really had no stopping power at all, however they did pass the test on the brake machine during the WOF test, I was a little surprised as I thought they would fail on the machine, However after a drive last weekend where I was giving the brakes a hard time to try and bed them in/get some feel for them I ended up with a problem, after touching the brake pedal for a corner they felt like they stayed on (jammed) a bit, I pulled over to the side of the road which was on a slight hill and the car wouldn't roll backwards, they seemed to eventually release and I got the car home ok.
All the brakes were rebuild about 6 years ago just before I took the car of the road, new hoses, caliper rebuild, master and 2 x slaves and boosters (car is RH drive)
Due to the leak of fluid from the air valve vent on the slave cylinder I have pulled these and stripped them as they seemed to be the likely culprit for the problem, It was nice to find they are still in great condition with no rust in the bores and the boosters are both in great shape as well, however both of the small check valves in the bottom of the slaves were not in such good condition, one was very stiff and the other jammed completely (had to tap out with a punch)
Have sent these of today to the brake specialist to attend to, hopefully this will turn out to be the cause of the problem.
Also have been doing some post Christmas shopping!
Have ordered from Summit Racing a new Magnaflow muffler for the rear, and have decided to put a resonator back in the center as well (car sounded great without this, but was just a little raspy at times), so went for an oval case Flowmaster resonator for this as it was nice and thin at only 3 inches high.
The second thing I have bought today is a new UUC shifter and DSSR (double shear shifter rod) The standard shifter in the car is horrible and has so much slop its like stirring porridge, so will be nice to get this into the car as well, will swap this over when the car is on the hoist getting the new exhaust done.
Have also decided the nose of the car is a fraction to high (it bugs me every time I look at it), so am going to do the unthinkable and trim a touch of the front springs to bring it down a bit, will also soften up my suspension a touch as well, now's the time to do it with the car being up in the air on stands, this is easy for me as I am running Koni dampers with adjustable rebound dampening, (simply depress the shock rod all the way down and turn)
Will let you know results of the above as they happen, Back to work!!
Well, just when you think your done, you find your not done at all!
When I went for my WOF test recently there was two tiny problems that the testers picked up on but let slide (i know them, and there into classics
)One was a rust hole in the rear muffler and the other was a bit of brake fluid leaking from one of the remote slave cylinders, Things I would get around to fixing in good time.
The brakes I was never that happy with, they felt like wood and really had no stopping power at all, however they did pass the test on the brake machine during the WOF test, I was a little surprised as I thought they would fail on the machine, However after a drive last weekend where I was giving the brakes a hard time to try and bed them in/get some feel for them I ended up with a problem, after touching the brake pedal for a corner they felt like they stayed on (jammed) a bit, I pulled over to the side of the road which was on a slight hill and the car wouldn't roll backwards, they seemed to eventually release and I got the car home ok.
All the brakes were rebuild about 6 years ago just before I took the car of the road, new hoses, caliper rebuild, master and 2 x slaves and boosters (car is RH drive)
Due to the leak of fluid from the air valve vent on the slave cylinder I have pulled these and stripped them as they seemed to be the likely culprit for the problem, It was nice to find they are still in great condition with no rust in the bores and the boosters are both in great shape as well, however both of the small check valves in the bottom of the slaves were not in such good condition, one was very stiff and the other jammed completely (had to tap out with a punch)
Have sent these of today to the brake specialist to attend to, hopefully this will turn out to be the cause of the problem.
Also have been doing some post Christmas shopping!
Have ordered from Summit Racing a new Magnaflow muffler for the rear, and have decided to put a resonator back in the center as well (car sounded great without this, but was just a little raspy at times), so went for an oval case Flowmaster resonator for this as it was nice and thin at only 3 inches high.
The second thing I have bought today is a new UUC shifter and DSSR (double shear shifter rod) The standard shifter in the car is horrible and has so much slop its like stirring porridge, so will be nice to get this into the car as well, will swap this over when the car is on the hoist getting the new exhaust done.
Have also decided the nose of the car is a fraction to high (it bugs me every time I look at it), so am going to do the unthinkable and trim a touch of the front springs to bring it down a bit, will also soften up my suspension a touch as well, now's the time to do it with the car being up in the air on stands, this is easy for me as I am running Koni dampers with adjustable rebound dampening, (simply depress the shock rod all the way down and turn)
Will let you know results of the above as they happen, Back to work!!
Having an old e9 is never going to be an cheap hobby! as you know I thought the car was done just before Christmas, since then the brakes have had a problem (sitting for 6 years while I did resto) turns out I had jammed air valve actuating pistons in my two remote servos and the main servo cylinders were goosed as well, so yesterday got these back from the brake shop complete with new stainless lined bores and a bill for $1080.
The new magna flow rear muffler and flow master resonator have also arrived, so as soon as these brakes are sorted I will be down to the exhaust shop to get the new system made up, will do a before and after video (for sound) for anyone interested.
Also received my new DSSR and short shift kit from UCC, looks beautifully made, will also do a before and after comparison on this as well.
Right'o, of now to put the brakes back together.
The new magna flow rear muffler and flow master resonator have also arrived, so as soon as these brakes are sorted I will be down to the exhaust shop to get the new system made up, will do a before and after video (for sound) for anyone interested.
Also received my new DSSR and short shift kit from UCC, looks beautifully made, will also do a before and after comparison on this as well.
Right'o, of now to put the brakes back together.
decoupe
(deceased)
Do you remember the offset of your rear wheels (I'm guessing 20mm) and are they 8" or 9"?
Thanks
Thanks
The wheels are 17 x 7.5 with 225 / 45 tyres
Offset is 38mm ( standard 3 series) and I run a 24mm thick bolt on spacer
Offset is 38mm ( standard 3 series) and I run a 24mm thick bolt on spacer
decoupe
(deceased)
Thanks Steve - mine are 245/40/17 on 8" rim ET 20 and I'm looking for the max spacer width possible without flares. Lots of room on the inside (25 - 30mm) but guessing 10mm to the lip which has not been rolled.
Any reason the rear lip can't be rolled like the front? Seem to recall Pamp said he did his for his gorgeous style five 9 x 17" wheels. Have to search.
Doug
Any reason the rear lip can't be rolled like the front? Seem to recall Pamp said he did his for his gorgeous style five 9 x 17" wheels. Have to search.
Doug
Can't see why you can't roll the rears as well, I didn't need too on mine. The rear lip is much thicker as it is two thicknesses of steel, not sure if you could do this without stuffing up the paint on the outside of the car?
happy for you
:lol:
I'm at the beginning so what can I say! I'm envious of the feeling you will have, driving a dream come true after 6 years! I suppose you will just drive and drive on just for the sake of it. A car with so many emotional attachments will provide you with sensations no other car will.
AS I saud, I'm happy for you and wish I can experience a similar sensation in the near future.
CONGRATULATIONS!
:lol:
I'm at the beginning so what can I say! I'm envious of the feeling you will have, driving a dream come true after 6 years! I suppose you will just drive and drive on just for the sake of it. A car with so many emotional attachments will provide you with sensations no other car will.
AS I saud, I'm happy for you and wish I can experience a similar sensation in the near future.
CONGRATULATIONS!
Aussiecsi
Well-Known Member
Having an old e9 is never going to be an cheap hobby! as you know I thought the car was done just before Christmas, since then the brakes have had a problem (sitting for 6 years while I did resto) turns out I had jammed air valve actuating pistons in my two remote servos and the main servo cylinders were goosed as well, so yesterday got these back from the brake shop complete with new stainless lined bores and a bill for $1080.
The new magna flow rear muffler and flow master resonator have also arrived, so as soon as these brakes are sorted I will be down to the exhaust shop to get the new system made up, will do a before and after video (for sound) for anyone interested.
Also received my new DSSR and short shift kit from UCC, looks beautifully made, will also do a before and after comparison on this as well.
Right'o, of now to put the brakes back together.
...look on the bright side Steve , it's $1,080 NZ $$'s ( not real money ...although you're catching up to us !! ...what's the sheep currency equivalent ?... twenty ewes and a ram ?)
Thanks Frederico,
Yes it was very satisfying to be finished, and I certainly plan on putting a lot of miles under my belt in her once fully sorted
...look on the bright side Steve , it's $1,080 NZ $$'s ( not real money ...although you're catching up to us !! ...what's the sheep currency equivalent ?... twenty ewes and a ram ?)
$0.95c today to the Aussie, you guys are going down!!!
As for the sheep, very funny-- again, well, at least we've got the grass and water to feed them. Bit dry over there at the moment?
Had some spare time so wrote a list of work completed over the last 6 years.
What started with a small bubble of rust the size of your small finger nail and turned into a 6 year rebuild, Other than building my track racing saloon car, I had never done anything like this before, Am pretty proud of the final result.
Bodywork
The car was striped to a rolling shell with only the engine, head lining and dashboard remaining in the car, extensive rust repairs were then carried out, rear sills, boot floor, rear tail light panel and lower rear valance, floor sections and patches to inner sills, front sills at the intersection with the front door posts, tops of both front strut towers and inner guards under where the front guards weld on, all the usual suspects.
However, I can now hand on heart say that the car is 99.9 % rust free, and so to keep it this way for as long as possible, I have spent a lot of time applying rust prevention and cavity wax sprays.
Moving on from the rust repairs, the car was stripped to bare metal, surface treated in a heated spray booth and sealed with 3 coats of epoxy primer before the usual high build primer/sealer and base coat/clear coat paint finish in Polaris.
Complete under body, under seal as well.
Re assembly
The list of new/recond trim parts used.
New Belt line mouldings
New rain gutter mouldings
New front and rear screen mouldings
New trim to top of door windows
New trim to front edge of rear side windows
Re anodized trim to top of rear side windows
All new rubber to the entire car
New door brakes
New door latch pin plates to B pillar
All new badges
Outer door handles and trim to bottom of rear side windows re chromed
Bonnet and front fender grills rebuilt with handmade replacement fin’s, pinned and epoxied together, repainted.
Front grilles, re painted with re anodized outer trim
New Stainless steel sill mouldings (coming soon)
Interior
New “Wurth” bitumen sound deadening to floor, Dynamat to Fire wall
New carpet
Re upholstered seats (M24 Recaros to be fitted soon)
New rear parcel tray cover
Re built glove box, including recovering with vacuum formed vinyl, re flocked to inside
Recovered center console side panels with custom radio panel
Recovered panel to underside of steering column
Recovered kick panels
New door arm rest top chrome cover trims
Re chromed door arm rest posts
Re chromed inner door handles
Re surfacing of wood trim
New seat belts to all four seats
New shifter gator (hand sewn by me! very proud)
Recovered shifter surround
Recover of dash top panel
Re veneer of gauge cluster panel
Strip, clean and service of all gauges
Trunk
Re spray with Polaris over rocker/sill textured finish
New rear tail light panel (made by myself)
Re make of trunk floor panels (Made by me)
Recover floor panels, tail light panel, under side of trunk lid panels
Re cond tool tray with all new tools, lamps, fuses etc (no red screw drivers sorry)
Re cond of caddy
Re cond spare wheel and new tyre
New carpet mat
Electrical
Re cond of tail lights, respray inner shells, re silvered reflectors etc
All window switches, stripped, cleaned, re assembled, 3 x new replacement
All electric windows relayed
Trunk light repair with new lens
Halogen head lamps, (relayed)
New LED glove box light (up under dash)
New wiper relay
Fuel system
Complete strip, rust repair, re paint and POR 15 fuel tank treatment
All new rubber fuel lines
New Bosch FI pump
Brakes
Complete strip and rebuild of Callipers (all new seals)
New flexible brake lines
Re cond master cylinders
New disks
Hi performance brake pads (cut from Mitsubishi Evo 9 pads)
New hand brake cables
Dot 5.1 brake fluid
Hand brake leaver pivot up grade (DQ)
Suspension
All suspension components striped and repainted
Custom HD/sport lowering springs
Adjustable Koni shocks
Custom sway bars front and rear with urethane mounts and new saddles
Custom front sway bar links
Fixed neg camber top plates
Urethane rear sub frame bushes
New diff mount
Eccentric adjusters (camber and toe) to rear arms
New CV boots
Wheels and Tyres
17 inch style 67’s on 35mm thick bolt on spacers
New 225/45/17 Michelin pilot sport 3 tyres
Drive train
Lightened fly wheel
Balanced Flywheel/clutch assembly
CR 5 speed (dogleg 1st)
3.64 LSD with extra clutch packs
New UCC shifter and DSSR
Engine
Standard 3.0 FI
K&N air filter
Custom exhaust, Magnaflow rear muffler and Flowmaster resonator
Thermal wrap to 2 x down pipes from manifolds to first collector
Pusher electric fan to Radiator
New standard radiator
What started with a small bubble of rust the size of your small finger nail and turned into a 6 year rebuild, Other than building my track racing saloon car, I had never done anything like this before, Am pretty proud of the final result.
Bodywork
The car was striped to a rolling shell with only the engine, head lining and dashboard remaining in the car, extensive rust repairs were then carried out, rear sills, boot floor, rear tail light panel and lower rear valance, floor sections and patches to inner sills, front sills at the intersection with the front door posts, tops of both front strut towers and inner guards under where the front guards weld on, all the usual suspects.
However, I can now hand on heart say that the car is 99.9 % rust free, and so to keep it this way for as long as possible, I have spent a lot of time applying rust prevention and cavity wax sprays.
Moving on from the rust repairs, the car was stripped to bare metal, surface treated in a heated spray booth and sealed with 3 coats of epoxy primer before the usual high build primer/sealer and base coat/clear coat paint finish in Polaris.
Complete under body, under seal as well.
Re assembly
The list of new/recond trim parts used.
New Belt line mouldings
New rain gutter mouldings
New front and rear screen mouldings
New trim to top of door windows
New trim to front edge of rear side windows
Re anodized trim to top of rear side windows
All new rubber to the entire car
New door brakes
New door latch pin plates to B pillar
All new badges
Outer door handles and trim to bottom of rear side windows re chromed
Bonnet and front fender grills rebuilt with handmade replacement fin’s, pinned and epoxied together, repainted.
Front grilles, re painted with re anodized outer trim
New Stainless steel sill mouldings (coming soon)
Interior
New “Wurth” bitumen sound deadening to floor, Dynamat to Fire wall
New carpet
Re upholstered seats (M24 Recaros to be fitted soon)
New rear parcel tray cover
Re built glove box, including recovering with vacuum formed vinyl, re flocked to inside
Recovered center console side panels with custom radio panel
Recovered panel to underside of steering column
Recovered kick panels
New door arm rest top chrome cover trims
Re chromed door arm rest posts
Re chromed inner door handles
Re surfacing of wood trim
New seat belts to all four seats
New shifter gator (hand sewn by me! very proud)
Recovered shifter surround
Recover of dash top panel
Re veneer of gauge cluster panel
Strip, clean and service of all gauges
Trunk
Re spray with Polaris over rocker/sill textured finish
New rear tail light panel (made by myself)
Re make of trunk floor panels (Made by me)
Recover floor panels, tail light panel, under side of trunk lid panels
Re cond tool tray with all new tools, lamps, fuses etc (no red screw drivers sorry
)Re cond of caddy
Re cond spare wheel and new tyre
New carpet mat
Electrical
Re cond of tail lights, respray inner shells, re silvered reflectors etc
All window switches, stripped, cleaned, re assembled, 3 x new replacement
All electric windows relayed
Trunk light repair with new lens
Halogen head lamps, (relayed)
New LED glove box light (up under dash)
New wiper relay
Fuel system
Complete strip, rust repair, re paint and POR 15 fuel tank treatment
All new rubber fuel lines
New Bosch FI pump
Brakes
Complete strip and rebuild of Callipers (all new seals)
New flexible brake lines
Re cond master cylinders
New disks
Hi performance brake pads (cut from Mitsubishi Evo 9 pads)
New hand brake cables
Dot 5.1 brake fluid
Hand brake leaver pivot up grade (DQ)
Suspension
All suspension components striped and repainted
Custom HD/sport lowering springs
Adjustable Koni shocks
Custom sway bars front and rear with urethane mounts and new saddles
Custom front sway bar links
Fixed neg camber top plates
Urethane rear sub frame bushes
New diff mount
Eccentric adjusters (camber and toe) to rear arms
New CV boots
Wheels and Tyres
17 inch style 67’s on 35mm thick bolt on spacers
New 225/45/17 Michelin pilot sport 3 tyres
Drive train
Lightened fly wheel
Balanced Flywheel/clutch assembly
CR 5 speed (dogleg 1st)
3.64 LSD with extra clutch packs
New UCC shifter and DSSR
Engine
Standard 3.0 FI
K&N air filter
Custom exhaust, Magnaflow rear muffler and Flowmaster resonator
Thermal wrap to 2 x down pipes from manifolds to first collector
Pusher electric fan to Radiator
New standard radiator
Guess which case you fall under in my new taxonomy:
http://www.e9coupe.com/forum/showpost.php?p=107851&postcount=25
http://www.e9coupe.com/forum/showpost.php?p=107851&postcount=25
Ha, somewhere between 2 and 3 I would guess, while I do like things right, I'm certainly not scared to change or modify things.I have to say, once you start, it's quite hard to stop doing just that "little bit more" and before you know it your a No1...."Anal"!