Hi Barry!
No prob! Happy to be what help I can be.
I pasted in your questions for easier navigation,
So if I remove the pitman arm and nut ( did you use a puller on the arm itself and / or heat to remove the arm)?
- yes remove, its on tight, the best is to apply lots of heat and use a puller.
Is the pitman arm bore tapered and splined or just splined ?
-both; there are markings on the arm and shaft. I have center punched my own markings just to be sure.
Then remove the 4 bolts on the alloy end plate / cover plate.
Then does the shaft just tap out with a mallet ?
-careful here! I believe I screwed myself by doing this. There is a ball bearing in the other shaft and if it falls you have slop in the steering box. If you can, have J. Stratton rebuild/reseal/adjust your steering box. Consequently, I replaced my steering box with known low mileage one (got pressure tested and replaced #16 seal)
View attachment 162583
Should I dot punch each shaft to help re align everything later ?
As the shaft is removed do the needle bearings “ fall out “ ?
-yes. when i did mine I used sticky grease to hold them in place, as in the above post. Again use J. Stratton's services.
Then with the shaft out is it easy enough to get the seals out ?
-only changed the #16 seal and #6 o-ring (NLA). It comes off from the outside. Remove circlip, drive a self tapping screw into the seal, and use a prybar to leverage it out. Gently tap in new seal after applying some sealant (I only use Hylomar Universal Blue) wit ha large socket
If I use grease to hold the needles in place is it straight forward to put them back in ?
Or do they have a special taper on them or something ?
- no taper, just need to account for them all as they may fall into the steering box. I suggest sending box to J. Stratton.
All the best,
Bill