Thanks for your kind words Steve. My ambition is outweighed by my skill, but I am happy to give it a go!
I am looking forward to fun behind the wheel again!
I am looking forward to fun behind the wheel again!
Transmission swap and engine compartment refresh Winter 2023-2024
- Thread starter boonies
- Start date
IMHO Goertze is the best but they are NLA, get the Elring from FCP Euro, Reinz is the 3rd choice last resort.
Hello,
I do have a couple used 3179 bolts, Let me know if you're interested , just pay shipment.
Regards
I do have a couple used 3179 bolts, Let me know if you're interested , just pay shipment.
Regards
Interesting, when I search on FCP i could only see the VR brand but found Elring when I used another model (e24). Fitment on other models is a little messy, seems to indicate that it will work. Thanks!
FCP Elring
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Than you, pm sent!
BMW Cylinder Head Gasket - Elring 11129065648
BMW Cylinder Head Gasket - Elring 11129065648
www.fcpeuro.com
Thanks Steve, ordered!
Getting ready to throw some primer on her this week. Weather is warming up this week so I can crack the garage door open and shut off the heater while I spray.
Wheel wells and engine compartment have been primed with white epoxy then the engine bay had a scuff and shot with SEM high build primer (also white) and wet sanded with 400. Next step is a little primer touch-up in just a couple of spots. The goal is to put the top coat on next week.
Pitman arm studs found. Thank you @grnder95 for responding to my search with a couple of bolts!
I was also able to save two of the bolts by drilling out the safety wire. Days of rust clean up, heat and penetrating oil allowed me to punch out one of the safety wires, I had to drill out the other two.
I was also able to save two of the bolts by drilling out the safety wire. Days of rust clean up, heat and penetrating oil allowed me to punch out one of the safety wires, I had to drill out the other two.
Top coat applied in the engine compartment and front wheel wells. Waiting for a few days to color sand.
Looking for some advice from those that have replaced front shock/struts with lowering springs.
I have these replacement shocks and strut inserts from BMW Oldtimer tiele and am using these lowering springs as well. I purchased item 14 & 18 from W&N (picture below) some time ago, and find that I have some questions about re-assembly.
Some prior posts indicate that Bilstein replacements do not require the "absorber", and without the absorber it seems that the bellows (#18) is too short. I suspect with lowering springs that the inclusion of the #14 absorber could leave insufficient strut piston travel.
What are your thoughts on the topic? Is a bellows recommended? If a bellows is necessary, a longer one must be sourced if the #14 absorber is eliminated. If that is the case, do you have a recommended part number?
Thanks in advance.
I have these replacement shocks and strut inserts from BMW Oldtimer tiele and am using these lowering springs as well. I purchased item 14 & 18 from W&N (picture below) some time ago, and find that I have some questions about re-assembly.
Some prior posts indicate that Bilstein replacements do not require the "absorber", and without the absorber it seems that the bellows (#18) is too short. I suspect with lowering springs that the inclusion of the #14 absorber could leave insufficient strut piston travel.
What are your thoughts on the topic? Is a bellows recommended? If a bellows is necessary, a longer one must be sourced if the #14 absorber is eliminated. If that is the case, do you have a recommended part number?
Thanks in advance.
Bilsteins have built in bump stops.
Work continues, more slowly than planned.
I needed to do some repairs to to vapor hone cabinet and replenish the zinc plating and yellow chromate tanks. Both of those systems are back in play and working well. I should finish with the final parts that needed plating this week in between other jobs on the coupe.
I also ended up scuffing the paint and applying a couple of more coats in a different shade. I am much happier with the results. Working now on bending brake lines and also re-installing the wiring in the engine compartment. The brake lines are...well...making my head hurt.
I ended up cutting some of the wire harness open after having re-wrapped it. I remembered that I wanted to add in a headlight relay. I bought the relay base from @HB Chris a couple of years ago to go along with the lights that are on the shelf.
I am also exploring possible locations for a small fuse block and relays for a few other items (low-beam headlights, driving lights, AC condenser fan, fuel pump). Please share any suggestions re. wiring while I am "in there."
I needed to do some repairs to to vapor hone cabinet and replenish the zinc plating and yellow chromate tanks. Both of those systems are back in play and working well. I should finish with the final parts that needed plating this week in between other jobs on the coupe.
I also ended up scuffing the paint and applying a couple of more coats in a different shade. I am much happier with the results. Working now on bending brake lines and also re-installing the wiring in the engine compartment. The brake lines are...well...making my head hurt.
I ended up cutting some of the wire harness open after having re-wrapped it. I remembered that I wanted to add in a headlight relay. I bought the relay base from @HB Chris a couple of years ago to go along with the lights that are on the shelf.
I am also exploring possible locations for a small fuse block and relays for a few other items (low-beam headlights, driving lights, AC condenser fan, fuel pump). Please share any suggestions re. wiring while I am "in there."
Did you measure the tip of the booster rod to the master cylinder like I didn't? The brake line bending was surprisingly frustrating, took a while to get down the learning curve on that one. I have a 4 fuse block mounted on the firewall which gets power fed from the starter/battery cable connection.
Good call on the booster rod. I read your post on that and promptly forgot. I need to go back and look at that adjustment process.
What a surprise, Lance. "Work continues, more slowly than planned." We all know that how much of pad we add to time and materials it will, in the end, be more. And sometimes, with our beauties and how they hide surprises, much more. Wait, did I say "sometimes?" Who am I kidding?
Steve
Steve
Making progress on some assembly while waiting for machine work.
Brake lines going in and re-assembly of cowl area (hood latches, fan cover, etc.). Sub-frame is now installed. In this light it looks black rather than the schwarz-olive color.
I stopped by the machine shop this week and dropped off the camshaft and some bits that I zinc plated while the head was apart. The guides are in and the rest of the head work should start in the next week or so. Also having the block bored, and that should all be done by the end of the month so I need to get busy so I can turn attention to the engine when it comes home.
I did install the new parallel flow condenser, but decided to go slightly larger so another is on the way. I could make this one work, but I can fit a larger one in the opening, so I am going to max it out.
Brake lines going in and re-assembly of cowl area (hood latches, fan cover, etc.). Sub-frame is now installed. In this light it looks black rather than the schwarz-olive color.
I stopped by the machine shop this week and dropped off the camshaft and some bits that I zinc plated while the head was apart. The guides are in and the rest of the head work should start in the next week or so. Also having the block bored, and that should all be done by the end of the month so I need to get busy so I can turn attention to the engine when it comes home.
I did install the new parallel flow condenser, but decided to go slightly larger so another is on the way. I could make this one work, but I can fit a larger one in the opening, so I am going to max it out.
Are they boring the block to exactly match the desired wall clearance for each piston?
Exactly.