Weekend removal of Rear (end)

m5bb

m5bb

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Had multiple things to do in the rear end so I decided it was time for a colonoscopy.

All new rubber bushings, brake backing plates, leak at input shaft of diff and new pads for springs. Powder coat all the pieces except diff.
This is a little tricky on a drive on lift.
 

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Consider new rear wheel bearings, new diff support, frame to body bushings (the long cylinder looking ones), and repack the half shafts, all easier with subframe out.
 
Stevehose said:
Consider new rear wheel bearings, new diff support, frame to body bushings (the long cylinder looking ones), and repack the half shafts, all easier with subframe out.
Click to expand...

Thanks Steve,
Already did the half shafts last year. Have the diff support and the bigger sub frame bushings also the swing arm bushings. 2 per arm. I replaced the left rear bearing last year so will probably order the other.

Gary
 
I think you weld plate to chassis and second plate bolts to diff and first plate. I watched Paul update his templates for these and he sent finished products to Carl.
 
Adds strength to an otherwise weak point in the body, especially with a monster engine like yours!
 
HB Chris said:
I think you weld plate to chassis and second plate bolts to diff and first plate. I watched Paul update his templates for these and he sent finished products to Carl.
Click to expand...

So this goes in the area circled?
 

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m5bb said:
So this goes in the area circled?
Click to expand...

This is how I did it, welded a plate on the outside on both sides. There were beginnings of cracks around the bolt-holes before.



And how I did on the chassis. I used pretty thick plates (4mm), a bit overkill maybe, and most likely it just keeps on cracking somewhere else on the chassis..

 
m5bb said:
Thanks Gransin,

I'm going to look those areas over more carefully.
I see what is being done now.

Gary
Click to expand...

That's a good idea, I don't know how common the following scenario is, but on mine there were also cracks in the sheetmetal infront of the diffmount, they were hard to see from under due to all of the underbody seal.

Not saying that your car has the same or any cracks, but just a heads up while you are in there looking!

 
Just let me tell you getting the nuts off the wheel spindles is quite a chore!

Had suspension arm in large vise on large metal bench.
Put very large breaker bar in between wheel studs and had an even bigger breaker bar with pipe extension.
I tried last night and could not get off.
A couple heat and cool cycles on nut.
Still nothing.
Tried impact wrench and nothing. Not a great impact wrench.
Split side of lock for nut and was able to pull it out.

My brother comes over today and he stands on the work bench holding the breaker bar wedged in the wheel studs and blocked at its end by the base of the vise.
I have long bar and am basically lifting the whole end of the workbench with him standing on it, the bar is bending and all of a sudden "pop" the nut comes loose.

Whew, my back is still ok!
 
We're an hour behind you so for now it's just the coffee in the air :-). That does look painful in the vice though. I may get to the shop this afternoon to finish dropping out the engine. Weather is nice in Austin and I have the blue coupe on the other side of the kitchen door whispering "drive me, drive me"!

Happy Thanksgiving!
 
Very cool. I have yet to pull my rear subframe, but may do so this winter.

Where did you support the rear of the body? A picture would be helpful.

m5bb said:
Had multiple things to do in the rear end so I decided it was time for a colonoscopy.

All new rubber bushings, brake backing plates, leak at input shaft of diff and new pads for springs. Powder coat all the pieces except diff.
This is a little tricky on a drive on lift.
Click to expand...
 
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